We have just hooked up and though I used the power jack during the hookup, it will not work now and the jack stand is still down.
My manual says to look behind the decorative door and there is a fuse box,
but I am not finding it. Wrong doors. Is that door, the one outside, in the center front of the AS? If so, I can't get that one open.
So, I need to look at the fuse box first, when I find it.
Thanks for any suggestions. My husband doesn't feel well, and being a typical man, still wants to do it all, but I am trying to get to it first.
Hi Pat -- The tongue jack is powered right from the batteries so that it will operate whether or not the main coach power switch is on. There is a small wire (yellow in my '06) going forward to the jack from a battery terminal. Can you check:
1. That the LP tank cover hasn't worn through and shorted this wire. This can happen when driven without tanks in place.
2. You should be able to find an inline fuse somewhere along the course of this wire.
I doubt the fuse is in a fuse box. It is an in-line 30 amp fuse on a 12 gauge wire, under the frame and between the jack and the battery box. Check that the fuse is good and that you have the wire connected to the plus side of the battery. Is the motor running? If it is running but not moving the jack, the fabric gears are stripped.
The trailer should be under warranty. Call Airstream and/or Greg at Barker Mfg. 1-800-527-9940. Good luck.
I did find the 30 amp fuse and my husband said it was still good. Also, we were able to manually retract the jack so we can travel. We are going to Jacksonville and won't have time to have it worked on for a while. No real problelm as we can do it manually.
Now, if I could only find the fuse box for the interior for future use.
Since you removed the power head assembly and are now operating it in manual mode, let me warn you about what can happen. By using that manual hand crank, the shaft or jackpost is not now synced with the power head. You must re-sync the power head with the jackpost. Instructions are on your jack as a sticker, and in the instruction manual and Barker’s website.
Do that (synchronize them) before you start using the motor to raise and lower the trailer. Otherwise the motor will not know how high or low the shaft is, it will not know when to stop, and it will eventually jam in the up or down position, and the gears will be stripped.
Trust me, many have learned that lesson the hard way. A few people thought the unit was beyond repair and bought a new one.
Some models have a light to use hitching up in the dark. If yours does, you can easily see if you have power to jack. Barring a problem with power delivery, there are a couple of other common problems. Switches can fail for one. Also, if the unit has gotten wet inside, rust can pry the permanet magnet field poles loose from the motor shell necessitating either re-gluing them (works fine) or replacing the motor.
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"Not all who are lost are wondering" say Bill & Heidi
'78 Excella 500,"The Silver Pullit". vacuum over hydraulic disc brakes, center bath, rear twin. '67 Travelall 1200 B 4X4 WBCCI 3737
For a 2007 isn't there a shop manual to assist with something of this nature?
>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
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1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - towing a - 1966 Overlander International Twin Bed
1996 Lincoln Mark VIII Diamond Anniversary 4.6L (275hp), 4R70W - 1990 Ford E 150 5.7L, AOD, 3.73 ____________________________________
Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
Sorry to hear about your problem. We have had a problem with our power jack not working since it was new. We had it checked out with other warranty issues during a trip to the factory. It continues to malfunction from time to time.......but we have found that if you shake the jack's shaft or push on the tongue from side to side it will work again. Poor ground in the head unit is the problem we think. We know this is not a fix but it works for us now. We plan to have it checked out soon. I hope your problem is as simple as this. Let us know how this works out. Happy trailering.
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"Your edumacation ain't no hipper than what you understand"- Dr. John
I found on our Atwood that the inline fuse connector had a sometime short in it. Could wiggle woggle it and it would work. Sprayed contact cleaner in and added a piece of solder splatter, rolled into a ball, and dropped it into connector. Working now, but time will tell..
TinCan, I think we have the same problem you do. When I flicked the switch, it worked, but did not have time to reset it. When we arrived in JAX, I took it apart again and reset it. Flicked the switch again and it worked. Then, went to put the stand down and it did not work. Loosened the set screws, shook it a bit without removing the head, and it worked. Worked fine when we hooked back up in JAX and haven't unhooked yet at home.
We will be leaving again in ten days, and will take the "manual" tools with us, just in case the shake doesn't do it.
We have just returned from a short evacuation trip, (Fay) and once again the jack does not work. The knock and shake didn't help so now will have to check with the mfg.
Would a manual jack be better? Could we use a power drill to raise and lower? Right now, we have to remove the cover from the propane tanks to take the jack apart with that tiny allen wrench, jiggle it around, put it back with the allen wrench and see if it works. When we crank it manually, it seems not hard to do. Maybe a manual would be best. Any one with any suggestions?
Thanks! The light would be on until we tried to lower or raise the jack. It would go out immediately. We took it all apart, timed it, tapped it, etc, and it still didn't work.
Now, the good news. The mfg is sending a new power head so we will have it before we leave on a trip in a week. Then, we will send the one we have now back to the mfg. The new one will not be the same color, but that can be fixed later.
I am really pleased with the mfg. They were very happy to help.
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