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Old 08-12-2013, 05:42 PM   #15
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You just need a shorter sand foot.

RV Tongue Jack Stabilizer Sand Pad Foot Footpad New | eBay
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:43 PM   #16
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I had a similar situation when I purchased my 86 Excella. The inner section was exposed about 10 inches and would not retract into the outer housing.I did some research and found the instructions. It IS possible to adjust the micro switches in the top of the housing to vary the "stick out" length. I KNOW because I DID THIS. Maybe , probably you have a different system up in the great white north.
In my research i found that it was not uncommon for those with longer trailers to need more "stick out" when parked on forward sloping area's.As long as the readjusted inner section was higher than the weight bars, no problemo.I wondered about it as it seemed possible for the inner to unscrew itself.
Hope this helps,
If your problem is the "foot", just don't use it, a small 2X4 or even a small steel plate would suffice.
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:14 PM   #17
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Has anyone tried one of these? It can be used either in the up or down position.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf fastway_special.pdf (85.2 KB, 70 views)
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA Streamer View Post
I use one of these Hitch Helper that allow you to move the trailer hitch side to side with a wrench.
Whenever we are traveling, we also use the Hitch Helper and only use the much longer jack stand at home. Before we bought the Hitch Helper, we used, while traveling, a 6" x 6" x 2" block of maple as a base for the jack. That worked well, but, as CA Streamer says, the Hitch Helper is handy to move the trailer tongue. The Hitch Helper is also easy to store.

Tim
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickDavis View Post
wood blocks
Another vote for wood blocks. It's the KISS principle. Keep It Simple & Stupid...
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:55 PM   #20
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In my sometimes not so humble opinion:

The "Fast way" above looks like a good idea, but never tried one.

It seems easier to move the TV than rachet the tongue over to meet the hitch with a wrench with the "Hitch Helper".

I have one of those aluminum post bases. Also a metal wheely thing for the post. I will sell them both really really cheap. One thing about the wheely things is you better have your wheels chocked before you unhitch or you may end up chasing your trailer. Guess how i know this. Another vote for wood blocks.
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Old 08-12-2013, 09:50 PM   #21
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I am not an expert here, but I have a19' Bambi and I have a reese weight hitch. The second photo has u setting way to low. If all is set properly the jack foot should fit. Right now my sububan is loaded, it rides low in the back, I have to lift the back of my car two inches to make sure the airstream is level. I hook up to the 4th chain. By doing so it now allows enough clearence to get the jacck foot under. When you unhook, jack goes way up, bars come off, the jack goes down to take pressure off back. You flip hitch lever, put jack high again to release, pull away a little.

To hitch up, i put jack up, get ball under, lower ball, lower lever onto hitch, put pin thru, then i put jack way high, put hars on 4th chain. Then lower jack all the way, the car should have been picked up enough that u get the foot off no problem. Check you hitch settings.

Imhave never had a oroblem and that jack foot sits on a two square of plywood.
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:22 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by TBRich View Post
We don't use an attached jack foot on our 19' ... we use a separate jack stand. You can get plastic jack stands from Camping World, etc, but we have a 7" cast aluminum jack stand that we bought from a family that makes them in Indiana. Ours is 7" but they also make a 4". The 7" works for most our situations, but when the slope of the campsite is such that we can't get the 7" jack stand under the jack post, we use a piece of wood instead. PM me if you want the info to order a cast aluminum jack stand.
Could you give us the contact info where we could buy these?
Thanks
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:41 PM   #23
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Here is info

Hi The measurement is for height. The 7 in. Base measure is 10 1/8 the cost is 40.00 plus shipping around 15.00. The 4 in. Base is 8 1/16 and is 35.00. Plus shipping in a flat rate box. Sorry for not keeping in touch. You can reach me ( Deb Kyle 1419 ) 1-260-665-6014 or 181south 900 west Angola Indiana 46703. We will be at region 5 I will try to have some of each of the casting. Thank you Deb
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:51 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic View Post
In my sometimes not so humble opinion:

The "Fast way" above looks like a good idea, but never tried one.

It seems easier to move the TV than rachet the tongue over to meet the hitch with a wrench with the "Hitch Helper".

I have one of those aluminum post bases. Also a metal wheely thing for the post. I will sell them both really really cheap. One thing about the wheely things is you better have your wheels chocked before you unhitch or you may end up chasing your trailer. Guess how i know this. Another vote for wood blocks.
Exactly...the hitch helper looks like another silly gimmick to me.

And those cOOl looking aluminum stands....I'd hate to accidentally back up and touch the trailer frame a little hard and see my trailer tumble off that precarious looking aluminum post base.

Thanks for the heads up about the "wheel chase"....you have to admit those jack wheels are cOOl looking. I've got one I used on a utility trailer but never on the Airstream.

My vote is sand foot on a wood block...(because as someone stated on here the wood block helps insulate against lighting strikes)
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:30 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFC View Post
Exactly...the hitch helper looks like another silly gimmick to me.
The Hitch Helper was designed for hitching up a Hensley or Propride, but will work for a standard ball hitch too. It is wonderful to use with my Hensley Hitch and I wouldn't be without it.
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:11 AM   #26
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Quote:
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My vote is sand foot on a wood block...(because as someone stated on here the wood block helps insulate against lighting strikes)
You are kidding yourself if you think a little wood block will insulate you against a lightning strike.
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:32 AM   #27
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Sometimes my Airstream jack stand has been too high as well, and had to dig a hole for it.

Good reminder, I just ordered the BAL Tongue Twister which may also be useful when hitching up.

doug
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:04 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBRich View Post
We don't use an attached jack foot on our 19' ... we use a separate jack stand. You can get plastic jack stands from Camping World, etc, but we have a 7" cast aluminum jack stand that we bought from a family that makes them in Indiana. Ours is 7" but they also make a 4". The 7" works for most our situations, but when the slope of the campsite is such that we can't get the 7" jack stand under the jack post, we use a piece of wood instead. PM me if you want the info to order a cast aluminum jack stand.
I use the 7 1nch cast alum. stand that I pur. with A.S. in 1976, manf. by Joe's Trailer Jack Buoy, Blowing Rock, State? Have never seen one since but looks same as 1 posted, 1976 has ball hgt. of 18 inch bottom of a frame to ground is 17 1/4 inch never had to dig gopher holes. Have never used wheel or any thing perm. mounted on jack, more lost ground clearance
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