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Old 02-18-2019, 07:30 PM   #15
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2002 30' Classic S/O
Melbourne Beach , Florida
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What I have found with my Classic 30 Slide is that if I jack from the rear jack point the frame bends enough that the entry door will not open (or close). Since as AW Warn stated the axle mounting bracket on the frame carries the load of both axles and must be designed to handle impulse loads I'm confident that (at least for my trailer) slow and easy jacking on that point is better for the frame than jacking at the jack point. The frame (and monocoque body shell) are apparently designed to sag away from the axles. It would seem that reversing that curve by jacking at the rear wouldn't be a good thing. I'm just saying.....
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Old 02-18-2019, 07:42 PM   #16
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1991 25' Excella
2011 19' Flying Cloud
Santa Ynez , California
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Ok fair enough, jack at your own peril. I have been the crash test dummy for 25 owners though and jack on the axle tube with no steel deformation or any other known issues.
Common sense applies here.
The axle beams are 3 times thicker steel than whats used in the frame so I'm not going to worry much.
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Old 02-18-2019, 08:53 PM   #17
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Tampa , Florida
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When I jacked up the AS, I've used the vertical steel plate the axles attach to. I figure if it can support the entire trailer it should support a jack.
There's not a lot of extra room, and I avoided between the wheels because mine has the plastic tank drain right there. So I put the jack in front of the wheels and a jack stand behind the wheels.
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Old 02-18-2019, 09:33 PM   #18
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2006 34' Classic S/O
Fort Worth , Texas
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You can jack anywhere on the main frame rail under the belly pan. Just use your knuckles, screw driver butt, or magnet to determine the frame location above the pan. Use a block of wood between your jack's pad and the trailer.
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Old 02-24-2019, 10:12 AM   #19
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2013 31' Classic
billings , Montana
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I always jack between the axles on the axle support frame..with a 4x 8x 1/2 steel plate between the flange and jack...so as not to bend the flange...
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Old 02-24-2019, 11:27 AM   #20
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2017 30' International
Santa Fe , New Mexico
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Follow rivet line

Follow the rivet line on the bottom of the trailer...bottom of belly pan. That's where the frame of the trailer is and you can put the jack anywhere along that rivet line. I ran into this issue about a year ago and called the factory for advise. This is what they said to do. They emphasized "DON'T USE AXLES" to jack.
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Old 02-24-2019, 12:43 PM   #21
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Tucson , Arizona
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guskmg wins the survey with the correct "factory approved" answer. Al and Missy are right about the door, btw. Doesn't mean the others are wrong, but it might mean they're just lucky. Oh ..., logic may be your guide, but there are a whole lot of things Airstream that aren't logical...

Back in 2014 my trailer came back from repair with no Jack Point Markers on the curb side. Here's a cut and paste from my inquiry to the factory as to where to put one and whether it should line up with the street side:

"The jack points can be put in anywhere along the frame between the axle and the bumper. Depending on how the lines (LP, tanks ect.) under a unit are laid out determines where we put them. Most times they won’t line up.

Airstream Customer Relations
937-596-6111 Ext. 7401"
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Old 02-25-2019, 06:52 AM   #22
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1995 34' Limited
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Purchase a Trailer Aide. Drive on block to raise the tire in order to change the tire. Much safer &easier than jacking.
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Old 02-25-2019, 08:13 AM   #23
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2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , Milky Way
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
What I have found with my Classic 30 Slide is that if I jack from the rear jack point the frame bends enough that the entry door will not open (or close). Since as AW Warn stated the axle mounting bracket on the frame carries the load of both axles and must be designed to handle impulse loads I'm confident that (at least for my trailer) slow and easy jacking on that point is better for the frame than jacking at the jack point. The frame (and monocoque body shell) are apparently designed to sag away from the axles. It would seem that reversing that curve by jacking at the rear wouldn't be a good thing. I'm just saying.....
Yep...

Bob
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:15 AM   #24
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Somewhere , South Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Yep...



Bob


Bob,

Thats just plain cheating!

Hand me another bandaid.

Gary
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Old 02-26-2019, 12:37 PM   #25
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2017 25' International
1968 17' Caravel
Los Osos , California
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I'm looking for a bottle jack plate or cradle adapter so that I may safely jack my 68 Caravel. I was wondering what people here might use to mount on their bottle jack top end where its contacts the jacking point.

The photos show the axle (newly restored and current) and it's attachment. I'm assuming that I'll use the vertical plate in the top foreground as the jacking point.
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Old 02-26-2019, 02:27 PM   #26
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SilverWind. What is that metal work extending down from the axle mount? Looks like something to hit road kill.
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Old 02-26-2019, 03:17 PM   #27
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1968 17' Caravel
Los Osos , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zil View Post
SilverWind. What is that metal work extending down from the axle mount? Looks like something to hit road kill.
Yes. Interesting isn't it?

The restoration and axle install was done by a very reputable restorer/axle guy in upstate New York and was commissioned by the previous owner.
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Old 02-26-2019, 03:24 PM   #28
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1968 17' Caravel
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I've found this solution and will give it a try.

https://safejacks.com/products/flat-...r-bottle-jacks

https://safejacks.com/products/exten...or-6-ton-jacks

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 4 inch square flat pad fits on top of the 6 ton Omega bottle jack, the collar helps stabilize and they guarantee compatibility with the 6 Ton Omega jack.
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