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Old 05-16-2019, 07:39 PM   #15
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Here's a picture of my Husky Brute 5000 on my Classic. One other clearance issue you need to be aware of is the manual crank. If you are ever required to use it, it fits on top of the head. There is a plug in the top that you pull out and then insert the crank into the hole. Nice that unlike the Super Jack, you have no issue with having to resend the gears or pull off the head. The bad side on my trailer is that first, you have to pull the gas bottle cover off and then pull the tanks back to get enough clearance to turn a very big crank handle.

Love the jack though and I feel very good about my selection of this product. The biggest advantage of this jack is that it uses a screw and ball method of raising and lowering the jack. Much more reliable than the geared method and truly is the concept used by heavy lifting jacks used in commercial businesses.


Jack
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:52 PM   #16
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Thank you for all the great responses. Now, I have a confession to make. I thought I would be drilling holes into the A/S frame, not the base of the new jack With this new information, I think I can handle drilling a few holes into the base of the new Husky. BTW, I use a Reese straight line hitch with 800lb trunnions.
A couple of you mentioned extending the ball shank. I would never do that for several reasons. I am a firm believer in having the ball as close as I can to the rear axle (Andy Thompson). I also spent too much time dialing in my hitch at the CAT scales to mess with it. I once put the shank in the wrong hole and inadvertently extended the ball for a short trip. Wow, I felt a world of difference with only approx. 2 difference in ball length.
Thanks again for the information. I will report back after completion with some pictures. Excited for my first trip out next week for Memorial Day. Then off to the New England Coast for a lengthy summer trip.
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:56 PM   #17
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Does anyone know if the barker jack hand crank also fit the husky brute tongue jack?
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Old 05-17-2019, 05:19 AM   #18
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Husky

Barker crank does not fit
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:19 AM   #19
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DeltaRon -
Thanks for the info. I guess Ill have a few Barker cranks when I install the new Brute.

I thought maybe that sort of item might be industry standardized. 🤷*♂️
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Old 05-17-2019, 11:35 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaLevel View Post
It has extra holes drilled into it which makes it easy to rotate 90 degrees, which is what I did to have extra clearance for the tailgate. With a standard Equal-i-zer shank the tailgate clears when the rig is at least mostly straight.
I watched the e-trailer video on the Phoenix jack, and the sales guy said the extra holes were if your bolts pattern was different. I think he was mistaken, all jacks use a 3/8" x 16 thread on 3" centers. I think the manufacturers added the holes to make turning it easier!! Brilliant. I also agree the two wires are a good solution to the grounding issue.
But, in my mind, the extra holes didn't look spaced for a 90 deg. rotation. Is that what you did?
120 degrees (spacing) - 90 degrees (rotate) = 30 degrees off of the existing holes. Maybe they are 30 degrees different.

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Originally Posted by malinois38 View Post
I have a confession to make. I thought I would be drilling holes into the A/S frame, not the base of the new jack
Winner!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera View Post
If you are ever required to use it, it fits on top of the head. There is a plug in the top that you pull out and then insert the crank into the hole. The bad side on my trailer is that first, you have to pull the gas bottle cover off and then pull the tanks back to get enough clearance to turn a very big crank handle.
... AND, there's another plug on the street side where you insert a small tool to release the brakes! So turning the head will put that plug against the tank cover anyway!
I'll have to look at my crank to see if I could adapt a socket wrench with an extension so it would clear the propane tank cover. Some jacks use a hex bolt head and that makes it easy.
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Old 05-17-2019, 11:57 AM   #21
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For those who are considering turning your jack 90 degrees, this tool might make it easier.
Transfer screws.
It's a set, you'd want the 3/8" x 16 set. Basically it's a collection of threaded inserts with a point, like a punch. You screw one screw in each hole with the point facing up, place your jack in the intended position, and tap the ring with a hammer (dead blow preferred).
That will make a ding in the bottom of the ring everywhere the screws were. Drill out a new hole. They'll match the hole pattern (in theory) I bought my set on e-bay for about $9, but I'll bet ACE or Tru-Value carries them..

The handle on the right is used to store them, chase the threads, and act like a wrench if needed. The points are the tool.
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Old 05-17-2019, 03:35 PM   #22
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But, in my mind, the extra holes didn't look spaced for a 90 deg. rotation. Is that what you did?
Yes. One set of holes allowed me to turn it 90 degrees. So instead of facing the truck (straight ahead) it's facing the drivers side.
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:32 AM   #23
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I have the same jack. Works great but I too have tailgate clearance issues. Did not see any apparent way to clock the motor housing 180 degrees. It might look kind of funny but I am considering rotating the whole thing 120 degrees so that there is no need to drill new holes.
We just put on the Husky with remote control, and it is far superior to the stock jack. We have clearance issues with the tailgate on an F350, but just work around.
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Old 05-20-2019, 05:14 AM   #24
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We like the Super Jack made by Baker Manufacturing in Michigan. They were used on Airstreams from 1978 to 2007 on the Classic models.

Many from 1978 are still working fine. You can buy parts for it. No plastic parts the cap is cast aluminum. No printed circuits. Will lift the back tires of an F250 off the ground. Nice and compact.

For safety and stability it is best to have the ball as close to the bumper as possible. It is not terribly difficult to relocate the jack behind the LP cover next to the battery compartment.

Andy
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Old 05-23-2019, 06:37 PM   #25
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I have read the entire blog but am interested in how much clearance you need. I was tight
By 3/4 but was able to get it when I raised the ball on my truck and 11/2 . It leveled out my trailer and truck AND gAve the clearance I needed. Sorry if this is not what you were looking for but Ithought it might help.
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Old 05-28-2019, 04:17 AM   #26
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Talking Ame problem solved❗️

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Originally Posted by malinois38 View Post
Just received my Husky Super Brute 5000 after some research on the forums. Before I even open the box, can anyone please tell me if the head can be rotated or not? I am not interested in drilling new holes..
My TV is an 2008 Tundra and I need the clearance for the tailgate. I currently have the original jack on my 2008 International and would like more torque when lifting the rear of my vehicle to attach the weight distribution bars.
If the Husky head does not rotate, I will take suggestions on another tongue jack that has 4-5K of torque that does have a rotating head?

Thank You!

Bought a jack that had extra slots so I could rotate it 90* Works good and they have a 5000# one at etrailer.
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Old 05-28-2019, 06:39 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera View Post
Here's a picture of my Husky Brute 5000 on my Classic. One other clearance issue you need to be aware of is the manual crank. If you are ever required to use it, it fits on top of the head. There is a plug in the top that you pull out and then insert the crank into the hole. Nice that unlike the Super Jack, you have no issue with having to resend the gears or pull off the head. The bad side on my trailer is that first, you have to pull the gas bottle cover off and then pull the tanks back to get enough clearance to turn a very big crank handle.
Love the jack though and I feel very good about my selection of this product. The biggest advantage of this jack is that it uses a screw and ball method of raising and lowering the jack. Much more reliable than the geared method and truly is the concept used by heavy lifting jacks used in commercial businesses.


Jack
Jack,
Thanks for the photo...I was concerned about tank cover clearance on the back of the unit.
Does the crank handle fit on a nut or pinned rod?
Could you use an adaptor or socket on an extension with an electric drill or small impact driver?

Bob
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