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Old 10-16-2017, 12:27 PM   #1
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Husky Super Brute.

Husky Super Brute
Do I want the 4000 or the 5000?

Pro:
1. More is better? They're the same size physically.
2. Remote?
3. Not that much more $$$

Cons:
1. More money.
2. Would I ever need a remote?
3. I suspect the only difference is gearing.

I actually wrote the company and suggested they add a couple holes to their flange to accommodate those who want to mount the jack at 90 degrees so the tailgate clears.
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Old 10-16-2017, 09:24 PM   #2
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When you are specifying a jack, that will lift the AS and TV together, I’d go with the bigger one if it’s “not much more money”. Overkill is s good idea here. Remote is overrated, IMHO
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Old 10-17-2017, 02:37 AM   #3
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Without a doubt the 5000#. I have one and it does a great job. As to the remote, believe me you will use it.
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:02 AM   #4
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I went with the 5,000 lb. Super Brute. At the time I bought mine early this summer the difference in price was only about $30. I found it on Amazon from a supplier in Kansas City Mo. I really believe going with the larger unit will give it longer longevity. It fits my Classic perfectly and overall I spent less for this jack than purchasing a replacement Barker OEM jack. Having the remote is a non factor although it was handy when I replaced my master level. I measured level from the floor of the freezer and it was nice to raise and lower the jack while inside the trailer watching the bubble level.

The only con that I can come up with (and I'm not sure if this would be true with the 4,000 or 4,500 lb models), is that the emergency crank that can be used will not clear the gas bottles when cranking. In that case I would have to remove the bottle cover and loosen the bottle hold downs to get get the bottles further back to clear the crank sweep.

I'm attaching a couple of pictures. I took these without the bottle cover on, but it fits just fine with as much clearance as what I had with the OEM SuperJack. You will note the clearance issue when using the emergency crank. I don't consider that to be an issue because I'm expecting long life from the jack and the fact that I always have power since I do carry an emergency generator.

Jack
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:21 AM   #5
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Jack,

Hope you'll never need the crank. But maybe by cutting the shaft just above the head and welding a tube extension in there to raise the crank a bit. If you redesign the emergency crank you're guarantee to never need it.

I'll look at mine next week just for grins.

But I think it still beats taking an entire head off at night in the rain dropping that Allen wrench in tall grass.

Fall, camping, cooking and campfires.

Ain't much better than that.
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:46 AM   #6
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As far as the crank, I've seen people devise an adaptor that then goes into a cordless drill......like you use for your stabilizer jacks, right?
If I turn the head to face the driver's side, the little rubber cover will face the propane tank cover anyway, so it will need to come off to use the "Key" that releases the clutch.
Turning it to the passenger side negates that, but it's not worth it for that "one time".
Since the Husky has three lights, it still throws some light on the hitch.
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:47 AM   #7
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New idea.

Cut the required stem to drive the head and modify to be turned by a socket and ratchet. If you can grind a hex on it or weld a larger nut on the end of the shaft.

Two ideas, ok signing off don't want to ruin the day.
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
Two ideas, ok signing off don't want to ruin the day.
And good ideas they were!
I love thinking about solutions.
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Old 10-17-2017, 11:22 AM   #9
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Yep, all are good ideas. The fact that I got 12 years of use on the SuperJack without the need to crank, and when I did and then the need to pull the case, the grease, resyncing the head etc, moving the gas bottles back a little is a walk in the park.
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Old 11-02-2017, 08:12 PM   #10
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Went down to the garage where I store my trailer to winterize it. Thought I take a few pics of the jack with the bottle cover on. I hadn't posted any like this before.

Jack
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Old 12-21-2017, 10:41 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera View Post
Went down to the garage where I store my trailer to winterize it. Thought I take a few pics of the jack with the bottle cover on. I hadn't posted any like this before.

Jack
Nice! My Flying Cloud's coupler is closer to the propane tank cover, and the coupler itself has a stamped ridge in the back, I assume to stiffen it. So my install will require grinding a flat spot on the jack mounting flange.
I'm still torn between rotating the jack itself, or buying a longer shank for the hitch.
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Old 12-21-2017, 10:52 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
Nice! My Flying Cloud's coupler is closer to the propane tank cover, and the coupler itself has a stamped ridge in the back, I assume to stiffen it. So my install will require grinding a flat spot on the jack mounting flange.
I'm still torn between rotating the jack itself, or buying a longer shank for the hitch.
(Grin) eliminated the tailegate interference issue entirely by installing a ProPride system....was either totally overwhelming overkill, or just a nice side effect?
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2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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Old 12-21-2017, 11:04 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
(Grin) eliminated the tailegate interference issue entirely by installing a ProPride system....was either totally overwhelming overkill, or just a nice side effect?
Both.
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Old 12-21-2017, 04:18 PM   #14
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Yup, that’s what I had self-diagnosed. [emoji3]
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Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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