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Old 12-10-2004, 11:15 AM   #1
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How to Remove Tongue Jack???

I am replacing my old tongue jack - I have removed the bolts but can't get it to budge at all. This is a 63 Safari. Thinking it might be rusted tight, I have used solvent with no effect. I can't see any weld holding it in place.

Am I missing something?

Kevin
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Old 12-10-2004, 03:46 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbatm01
I am replacing my old tongue jack - I have removed the bolts but can't get it to budge at all. This is a 63 Safari. Thinking it might be rusted tight, I have used solvent with no effect. I can't see any weld holding it in place.

Am I missing something?

Kevin
When I replaced ours it came right out. I would think that you would be able to see if it has a lot of rust on it or not. There were three bolts that I had to take loose. Just make sure you support the frame securely and safely.
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Old 12-10-2004, 06:07 PM   #3
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I wanted to remove the tongue jack from my Overlander to do a good job of painting it. After encountering your situation, I decided it was welded to the lower plate that attaches to the A-frame.

When I become old & gray, and want an electric jack, I decided to find a competent welder who could cut out the old jack, and install a new one.

I'd like someone to tell me I did not try hard enough to remove the old one...

Tom
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Old 12-10-2004, 06:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbatm01
I am replacing my old tongue jack - I have removed the bolts but can't get it to budge at all. This is a 63 Safari. Thinking it might be rusted tight, I have used solvent with no effect. I can't see any weld holding it in place.
Am I missing something?
Kevin
Well, since you're replacing the old one, I guess it wouldn't hurt to give the old one a few light taps with a sledge hammer. If it's just rusted into place, that might free it up.

I replaced ours several years ago. All went well removing the old one, but it turned out that the new one needed a slightly larger hole. Acetylene to the rescue!


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Old 12-10-2004, 06:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcwilliams
I wanted to remove the tongue jack from my Overlander to do a good job of painting it. After encountering your situation, I decided it was welded to the lower plate that attaches to the A-frame.

When I become old & gray, and want an electric jack, I decided to find a competent welder who could cut out the old jack, and install a new one.

I'd like someone to tell me I did not try hard enough to remove the old one...

Tom
Do it at your own risk. This is how I would do this job if it were my trailer.

Remove the gas bottles and put them behind the neighbors house.

Useing a small "Burns-a-matic" and some candle wax, heat around the base of the jack and get it as hot as possible. Rub the wax on the joint. This will lubricate the tight fit. Then I would repeat this step several times. Wax will smoke and may burn off when reheated. I would not reheat after last coat of wax. Then I would tap with a hammer to remove the jack.
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Old 12-10-2004, 08:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebee
Do it at your own risk. This is how I would do this job if it were my trailer.

Remove the gas bottles and put them behind the neighbors house.

Useing a small "Burns-a-matic" and some candle wax, heat around the base of the jack and get it as hot as possible. Rub the wax on the joint. This will lubricate the tight fit. Then I would repeat this step several times. Wax will smoke and may burn off when reheated. I would not reheat after last coat of wax. Then I would tap with a hammer to remove the jack.
Very interesting ?? Does the wax use capillary action like solder and move into the joint to free it up?

And for what its worth put some super duper PB penetrating oil on it for 24 hrs then smack on it. Make sure your frame is supported with blocks. Also it could be layers of paint holding it Together, maybe a wire brush would help.
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Old 12-10-2004, 08:41 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by campcollector
Very interesting ?? Does the wax use capillary action like solder and move into the joint to free it up?

And for what its worth put some super duper PB penetrating oil on it for 24 hrs then smack on it. Make sure your frame is supported with blocks. Also it could be layers of paint holding it Together, maybe a wire brush would help.
The wax will wick into the smallest points.

I learned this process from a local machinest. He uses this method to remove frozen head bolts from old engine blocks. after using this process the frozen head bolt can be removed with a pair of needle nose plires. I have seen him remove the bolt (after it cools) with his fingers.

These bolts were so frozen in the heads that the head of the bolt turned off when trying to loosen, while trying all the penetrating products.

The wax I use is one of those old large candles, my wife had a Christmas which is no longer suitable for the celebrations.
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Old 12-10-2004, 10:03 PM   #8
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Coolest trick I ever heard! i almost cant wait to have a stuck bolt to try this on!
Will any color candle work?
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Old 12-12-2004, 08:01 PM   #9
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Coolest trick I ever heard! i almost cant wait to have a stuck bolt to try this on!
Will any color candle work?
I know you do not believe me but that's fine. Next time you have a problem get a drill bit and and easy-out.

I use old candles, instead of going to the store and purchasing a box of paraffin.

Use caution when selecting a candle. Pick the wrong one and the wife may put her favorite candle in a very uncomfortable location.
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Old 12-12-2004, 08:13 PM   #10
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I did belive you! I tried it and it is awsome! I used it to remove the u-joint caps from my driveshaft, they were really really stuck.
I did the candle thing and they popped right out with an easy hammer blow.
I was just having fun with the color thing, but it really does work and I will use it alot.
I spoke to an oldtimer friend of mine and he knew of this too. He used to own a machine shop and used this trick alot. He even has a candle on his workbench, I had seen it there before but figured he used it if the power went out.

Thank you for bringing this trick to my attention.

[B]To everyone, this is for real! try it next chance you get. It is a great timesaver.
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Old 12-13-2004, 10:40 AM   #11
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Lots of great suggestions. I did the sledge hammer bit after soaking with PB. Almost broke my knuckle while using a crow bar to move it. There must be a weld I can't see as Lynn suggests.

I will try the wax solution and let you know how it goes.

Thanks,

Kevin
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Old 12-13-2004, 10:31 PM   #12
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Burn Baby Burn

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbatm01
Lots of great suggestions. I did the sledge hammer bit after soaking with PB. Almost broke my knuckle while using a crow bar to move it. There must be a weld I can't see as Lynn suggests.

I will try the wax solution and let you know how it goes.

Thanks,

Kevin

Ok Ok sure fire way to get it off. PLASMA CUTTER!!!!
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Old 12-14-2004, 09:25 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by mbatm01
Lots of great suggestions. I did the sledge hammer bit after soaking with PB. Almost broke my knuckle while using a crow bar to move it. There must be a weld I can't see as Lynn suggests.

I will try the wax solution and let you know how it goes.

Thanks,

Kevin
Another thought, Hitch the tow vehicle to the trailer. Put your stabilizer jacks down to catch the trailer. then use the tongue jack to raise the tow vehicle and the front of trailer. When all vehicles are raised by the tongue jack start taping on the base of the jack. The weight of the truck will help to press the jack out, I am assuming it has to go up and the tongue down to separate.

Adding a little heat at this point would not hurt.
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Old 12-15-2004, 05:46 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Rebee
Another thought, Hitch the tow vehicle to the trailer. Put your stabilizer jacks down to catch the trailer. then use the tongue jack to raise the tow vehicle and the front of trailer. When all vehicles are raised by the tongue jack start taping on the base of the jack...
I tried that - no cigar

That's why I'm pretty sure it is welded.

Tom
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