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flyfisher · 05-05-2004, 03:05 AM

Sooner or later I know I'll have to manually crank the electric jack on my new 30' Classic. I'm not a wizard when it comes to mechanical things, so I better know how to do this before the time comes.

I've read my Owner's Manual which says "Remove the Power Head by loosening the two Allen set screws" The manual includes a diagram of the Jack Assembly, that shows the manual crank handle and where it fits in the Jack Post to do this.

However, nothing on the diagram is referred to as a "Power Head" nor are there any Allen set screws pictured. Plus, I don't see any Allen set screws visable on the outside of the Jack. (See, I told you I'm not a mechanical wizard!)

Is the "Power Head" the same as the "Jack Cover"? And, must I first take off this jack cover (which seems to have phillips head screws securing it) before I get to the Allen set screws?

Why can't those people write a manual for Dummy's like me?

John

Ps. My power jack on my SOB that I just sold certainly wasn't that involved -- simply "push switch up to go up, or down to go down. Insert crank handle in hole right below switch to crank manually."

Silvertwinkie · 05-05-2004, 06:57 AM

That's a good question John. I'd be interested in the answer too. I've just kind of taken a leap of faith that it won't die in the meantime.

smily · 05-05-2004, 07:19 AM

allen screws are holding the whole head on to the shaft.
DO NOT REMOVE THE WHOLE HEAD!

remove screws that are under cover (4). remove cover. You will need a Tee handled device that fits into top of Jack screw. I can send picture of tool, but not unitl I get back to SC.

You will see what I am talking about when you get the cover removed.

I will make a rough depiction below of what the tool looks like,

-O- <----- This end fits into top of screw jack

Smily

flyfisher · 05-05-2004, 09:50 AM

Ken -

Thanks for the info., but I'm almost just as confused as before.

The manual CLEARLY (as clearly as I sometimes misinterpret things!) says that you have to remove the Power Head, by loosening the set screws as the first step in using the manual crank. I think I know what the manual crank handle is, if that's the tool you're referring to.

Anyway, since I can see the phillips head screws that seem to hold the cover on, I guess I'll just remove them and the cover to see what's beneath.

John

bryanl · 05-05-2004, 10:01 AM

The reason for avoiding removing the entire head is that you need to recalibrate the limit switches when you put it back on. These switches automatically shut down the motor when the jack gets to the end of its up or down motion.

To manually crank the jack, you need access to the top of the jack screw and you need a tool that will turn it. Most jack screws have slotted tops so they can be turned with a huge screwdriver or a crank with a couple of knobs on the end.

The only way to get at the jack screw on the original jack that came with my 1975 model was to remove the head. I recently bought a new electric jack and it has a hatch in the head that can be removed making it easy to access the jack screw. Both heads clamp to the jack post with allen head set screws. The old jack did not have limit switches. The new one does and comes with instructions on how to calibrate them (they are simpy rotation counters so setting them is a matter of syncing the head with the jack screw)

Also check the maintenance guides - they usually suggest taking the head off and lubricating the gears and jack screws every year or so.

troubleskeep · 05-05-2004, 11:04 AM

Ok, I am still in the process of rebuilding my jack, an older Barker Super Jack and taking of the 'cover' just exposes all the gearing, limit switch assembly and motor. But removing the 2 allen screws from the collar mounting point to the jack would be much easier even with resync'ing the switches.

The manual for mine can be found here . It actually shows a diagram with the power head removed to use the hand crank.

Also the newer models as well with parts list can be found here too. This is great information to have with the TT 'just in case'.

Also, and I can't stress this enough, please, please remove the allen screws and lubricate them with an appropriate material once a year. The screws are made from a hard steel where the powerhead is not steel. This causes a galvanic reaction otherwise known as corrosion. Mine were corroded and had to be drilled out, now I have to replace the lower part of the casing to provide a good ground to the jack and chassis. This would also be a good time to put a little grease on the gearing under the afore mentioned 'cover'. It'll take longer to get the toolbox out then to lube this thing up, but it'll save you in the long run.

By the way, while $300.00 is a bit for a new jack, they at least have cool little lights on them so you can see what you paid for!

53flyingcloud · 05-05-2004, 01:06 PM

troubleskeep,
Thanks again for the manual..
Downloaded a copy to my GT-64 Folder.
Later, I'll burn a CD containing all of the info to keep in trailer~!

ciao
53FC