Electric tongue jack replacement

[Mollysdad]

Yes, the Husky 5K is going on my trailer after I finish all the projects I have half way done.
After my last experience with the Attwood where I had the trailer and truck raised to aid in the bars being hooked up, and it refused to lower. Now I couldn't unhook, I couldn't drive away, and I couldn't even crank the jack down and I'm 25 miles from home and tools.

I'm turning mine 90 degrees so hopefully the tailgate will clear.

[dmcgaugh]

I still have the star washers between the flange and the tongue, but am planning to flip them around and put them on top of the flange in the next few weeks to give a more complete mating surface between the flange and the tongue. I’m debating whether I paint just the flange and bolts black to match the tongue afterward in case there is any rust that shows up due to the star washers biting through the paint.

Going on a year now and the Husky 5000 is still working great. In fact, we’re currently camping the same place we did last year this time where getting the WD bars on/off is quite a challenge based on the slope of the space. The Husky is always up for the challenge though.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, after about 11 years, my original Barker tongue jack stripped a gear. I was on the opposite coast so I bought a an Ultra Fab from Camping World. It worked but that is all I could say for it. I had it replaced under warrantee after I got back home. The replacement failed so it was replaced under warranty too. The second replacement also failed so it was again replaced under warranty. Great service, but not a good product. I bought a replacement gear for my original Barker and it's back on my trailer and working perfectly. I later bought another replacement gear, for a spare, for my Barker. I have a brand new, unused, Ultra Fab tongue jack sitting in my garage. I think the older Barkers are better than the newer ones.

[GCinSC2]

Several years into a Husky jack, zero issues. I think that ball screw design is a big part of its performance and quieter operation.

[laferic]

Hi, I'm looking into same jack .. how was the installation? any special modification the attachment plate?

[dmcgaugh]

Originally Posted by laferic

Hi, I'm looking into same jack .. how was the installation? any special modification the attachment plate?

It’s a pretty straightforward swap. The new jack comes with a 30A breaker rather than a fuse. I’m almost 2-years into mine and no problems. I still haven’t gotten to swapping around the star washers.

[WestieHouse]

Originally Posted by laferic

Hi, I'm looking into same jack .. how was the installation? any special modification the attachment plate?

My installation went very well in under an hour. Use WD-40 ahead of time to free up the bolts. My only problem was that I inadvertently placed the break switch cable on the opposite side of the A-frame than where it should have been. Although it still worked fine, it just didn’t look right and placed stress on the connection. This required me to undue the two bolts again to move it to the proper position.

The light is great for working if it’s dark, but it is easy to leave the switch in the “On” position during bright sunlight.

The new jack is a tremendous improvement and looks much better, too. And I was able to sell the Barker on E-Bay for $100 within a day.

[Lara Me]

I might suggest for future installers that the Jack controls be rotated 90 degrees to either side. This leaves enough clearance to open a truck tailgate

[DMT]

Tried turning the Husky 90 degrees but the flange holes do not line up with the holes in the tongue. I had previously rotated my Barker by rotating the head. The Husky head does not rotate, hence the jack will only install facing forward.

[TRIPPPIN]

Originally Posted by DMT

Tried turning the Husky 90 degrees but the flange holes do not line up with the holes in the tongue. I had previously rotated my Barker by rotating the head. The Husky head does not rotate, hence the jack will only install facing forward.

Why not drill new holes to allow the head to be turned 90 degrees?

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by DMT

Tried turning the Husky 90 degrees but the flange holes do not line up with the holes in the tongue.

No.
But the jack has a circular base plate (rather than a triangle) so you can drill three new holes in position.
All jacks mount using 3/8" bolts on 3" centers. I'd probably drill a slightly larger hole to allow some error, you'll still be using star washers and flat washers.
It's hard to explain, but you want the holes 90 degrees counterclockwise, and the existing holes are on 120 degree axis, so drill a new hole 30 degrees before an existing hole.
Assuming you want the head facing the driver's side. Here's the down side: 1. It has lights on three sides, so one will be facing the propane tank. 2. The rubber cover for the "clutch release" (if you ever need the crank) will be facing the propane cover.
I don't know that either of these is a deal killer, but the alternative is to face the switch towards the curb side.
I found a shank 3" longer than the stock hitch, so I'm going to try that first.

[DMT]

Thought about it. I will try it as is for now and it it becomes a pain I may get the drill out.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by DMT

Thought about it. I will try it as is for now and it it becomes a pain I may get the drill out.

I get it.
You can make a paper template or...
Here's an option, "Transfer Screws". It's a set of threaded studs with a sharp point. The thing on the right stores them and acts as a wrench if you need it. You screw one in each hole with the point up, then place the jack in position and tap it with a hammer. It leaves a dot on the base plate like a punch, where you'll drill. (If I do it, I'll wrap tape around the post to better center it in the hole.)

[Cannondaler]

Just to avoid confusion. When one is using the tongue jack to install the displacement bars on an Equilizer or somewhat comparable device, the jack needs to raise the combined trailer and vehicle at the tongue to the height where the bars rest on their brackets. Then the combined load is lowered so that the load is distributed between the vehicle and the trailer. So...your jack must be capable of lifting a combined vehicle/trailer load, not just the trailer tongue. Otherwise, you can fight with those darn tools to pry the bars onto the bracket. In that case, a 3,000# jack is more than enough. I have a 25' Ocean Breeze with 3,000# jack. I have often wondered if I was straining it when using jack to ease the process of installing the bars. Glad to see the jack manufacturer is stating the facts "in small type" rather than not at all. I never caught it. We have purchased the 5,000# Brute. Installing this weekend. Looking forward to that remote for leveling and placing those Equilizer bars on their brackets.

Reminds me of the manual coming with our new 2019 Ford Expedition, a great towing machine. We bought the Expedition a week before starting a trip, and no one suggested we needed to "break in" the motor before towing. Managed to find some fine print in towing manual stating that the vehicle must be driven 1,000 miles before towing. Think that would be in big bold print at front of manual! We made a couple of enjoyable driving trips preceding our current Airstream adventure across the US.

Happy hauling.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by Cannondaler

Just to avoid confusion. When one is using the tongue jack to install the displacement bars on an Equilizer or somewhat comparable device, the jack needs to raise the combined trailer and vehicle at the tongue to the height where the bars rest on their brackets. Then the combined load is lowered so that the load is distributed between the vehicle and the trailer. So...your jack must be capable of lifting a combined vehicle/trailer load, not just the trailer tongue. Otherwise, you can fight with those darn tools to pry the bars onto the bracket. In that case, a 3,000# jack is more than enough. I have a 25' Ocean Breeze with 3,000# jack. I have often wondered if I was straining it when using jack to ease the process of installing the bars. Glad to see the jack manufacturer is stating the facts "in small type" rather than not at all. I never caught it. We have purchased the 5,000# Brute. Installing this weekend. Looking forward to that remote for leveling and placing those Equilizer bars on their brackets.

Reminds me of the manual coming with our new 2019 Ford Expedition, a great towing machine. We bought the Expedition a week before starting a trip, and no one suggested we needed to "break in" the motor before towing. Managed to find some fine print in towing manual stating that the vehicle must be driven 1,000 miles before towing. Think that would be in big bold print at front of manual! We made a couple of enjoyable driving trips preceding our current Airstream adventure across the US.

Happy hauling.

Hi, read your manual again. Yes it says to drive your vehicle 1,000 miles before towing. The break in is for the differential gears, not the engine.

[Action]

And brake friction material

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[Cannondaler]

Okay. But imagine it is for "all of the above". Interesting that the manual doesn't include any information on the size of the trailer this applies to. Makes a big difference if you are hauling a 200# yard trailer around, vs. a 9,000# travel trailer. Seems they should have made it a whole lot clearer with a minimum weight this applies to. Also, the maximum towing load and tongue weight listed by Ford are based on using a weight distribution system. Without such a system, the maximums are about half. Some Ford dealer salesmen, like in Seattle, don't know anything about this stuff. Every dealership should have a "trailer expert" who is part of the Ford vehicle introduction program for those who intend to pull trailers. The Expedition has so many great trailer features, Ford is now advertising their towing capabilities with videos of Expeditions pulling Airstreams. They should be sure their customers understand what they are getting.

Just my thoughts. Heading from Iowa to Quebec City next week. Anyone with suggestions on where to stay, pass it along. Thanks.

[Action]

Originally Posted by Cannondaler

Some Ford dealer salesmen, like in Seattle, don't know anything about this stuff. Every dealership should have a "trailer expert" who is part of the Ford vehicle introduction program for those who intend to pull trailers. The Expedition has so many great trailer features, Ford is now advertising their towing capabilities with videos of Expeditions pulling Airstreams. They should be sure their customers understand what they are getting.

Most dealership sales people do not know about trailer towing.

And different trailers of the same length and weight, tow differently.
An Airstream and a boat with trailer of similar weight and length are set up much differently. Ford recognised this and used to (may still) have a trailer frontal area requirement. Boats on trailers at speeds greater than 45 do not present as much air resistance.

Congrats on your new TV. The rather thick owners manual has a pile of data. And there may be a seperate towing guide as well. Understand what is in the manual and follow the recommendations. The manufacture places limits on towing and other functions of your vehicle. Following that will make your towing experience much less dramatic.

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[Cannondaler]

Yes, they do have frontal area requirements clearly spelled out.

[Action]

And the dealer sales person may not have known that either.

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