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Old 06-16-2018, 12:27 AM   #43
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I'll stick with my original Barker.

Hi, after about 11 years, my original Barker tongue jack stripped a gear. I was on the opposite coast so I bought a an Ultra Fab from Camping World. It worked but that is all I could say for it. I had it replaced under warrantee after I got back home. The replacement failed so it was replaced under warranty too. The second replacement also failed so it was again replaced under warranty. Great service, but not a good product. I bought a replacement gear for my original Barker and it's back on my trailer and working perfectly. I later bought another replacement gear, for a spare, for my Barker. I have a brand new, unused, Ultra Fab tongue jack sitting in my garage. I think the older Barkers are better than the newer ones.
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Old 06-16-2018, 05:22 AM   #44
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Several years into a Husky jack, zero issues. I think that ball screw design is a big part of its performance and quieter operation.
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Old 03-31-2019, 03:13 PM   #45
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Hi, I'm looking into same jack .. how was the installation? any special modification the attachment plate?
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Old 03-31-2019, 05:13 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laferic View Post
Hi, I'm looking into same jack .. how was the installation? any special modification the attachment plate?


It’s a pretty straightforward swap. The new jack comes with a 30A breaker rather than a fuse. I’m almost 2-years into mine and no problems. I still haven’t gotten to swapping around the star washers.
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Old 03-31-2019, 10:49 PM   #47
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Hi, I'm looking into same jack .. how was the installation? any special modification the attachment plate?
My installation went very well in under an hour. Use WD-40 ahead of time to free up the bolts. My only problem was that I inadvertently placed the break switch cable on the opposite side of the A-frame than where it should have been. Although it still worked fine, it just didn’t look right and placed stress on the connection. This required me to undue the two bolts again to move it to the proper position.

The light is great for working if it’s dark, but it is easy to leave the switch in the “On” position during bright sunlight.

The new jack is a tremendous improvement and looks much better, too. And I was able to sell the Barker on E-Bay for $100 within a day.
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Old 03-31-2019, 10:52 PM   #48
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I might suggest for future installers that the Jack controls be rotated 90 degrees to either side. This leaves enough clearance to open a truck tailgate
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Old 05-08-2019, 05:03 AM   #49
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Electric tongue jack replacement

Tried turning the Husky 90 degrees but the flange holes do not line up with the holes in the tongue. I had previously rotated my Barker by rotating the head. The Husky head does not rotate, hence the jack will only install facing forward.
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Old 05-08-2019, 06:54 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMT View Post
Tried turning the Husky 90 degrees but the flange holes do not line up with the holes in the tongue. I had previously rotated my Barker by rotating the head. The Husky head does not rotate, hence the jack will only install facing forward.
Why not drill new holes to allow the head to be turned 90 degrees?
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:29 AM   #51
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Tried turning the Husky 90 degrees but the flange holes do not line up with the holes in the tongue.
No.
But the jack has a circular base plate (rather than a triangle) so you can drill three new holes in position.
All jacks mount using 3/8" bolts on 3" centers. I'd probably drill a slightly larger hole to allow some error, you'll still be using star washers and flat washers.
It's hard to explain, but you want the holes 90 degrees counterclockwise, and the existing holes are on 120 degree axis, so drill a new hole 30 degrees before an existing hole.
Assuming you want the head facing the driver's side. Here's the down side: 1. It has lights on three sides, so one will be facing the propane tank. 2. The rubber cover for the "clutch release" (if you ever need the crank) will be facing the propane cover.
I don't know that either of these is a deal killer, but the alternative is to face the switch towards the curb side.
I found a shank 3" longer than the stock hitch, so I'm going to try that first.
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:21 AM   #52
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Thought about it. I will try it as is for now and it it becomes a pain I may get the drill out.
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:17 AM   #53
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Thought about it. I will try it as is for now and it it becomes a pain I may get the drill out.
I get it.
You can make a paper template or...
Here's an option, "Transfer Screws". It's a set of threaded studs with a sharp point. The thing on the right stores them and acts as a wrench if you need it. You screw one in each hole with the point up, then place the jack in position and tap it with a hammer. It leaves a dot on the base plate like a punch, where you'll drill. (If I do it, I'll wrap tape around the post to better center it in the hole.)
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