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Old 10-06-2017, 06:46 PM   #29
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Just replaced my 3000 lb Barker with the 5000lb Brute. This thing is awesome. Very impressed with the operation. The lights are bright, there's three of them instead of one. The remote works as advertised; kind of a large key FOB style but that's okay. Was disappointed to confirm that it is MADE IN CHINA but for $269 I already knew it was. Light weight Chinese stuff is nice when you want to lower your tongue weight!

Things I learned the hard way:

1) The Brute does not come with any electrical connectors and you need to splice in the 30 amp breaker.
2) It also does not come with a ring connector which also needs to be spliced in. My town apparently does not sell them in 3/8 for a 10 gauge wire so I had to cut off the terminal from the old Barker. Not the end of the world but they should say that in the list of items needed.
3) Three stainless washers are needed to properly secure the star washers and bolts. A trip to the hardware store for $.39 cents worth of washers.
4) The Brute grounds to the frame and power connects to the positive lead on the battery. (Opposite of the Barker) I was testing the unit before committing to the install and I thought it wasn't working properly because I hadn't fully tightened the bolts. I learned this when my wrench began arching to the frame as I tightened it.
5) The Brute comes with a level but no way to attach it or instructions on how. I spoke with Husky (very easy to get them on the phone) and they suggested I just use... carpet tape...(?) Regardless, the top of the unit is not flat so even if I got it on there with some 3M tape it wouldn't indicate true level. Click image for larger version

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Old 10-06-2017, 07:18 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by chaseav View Post
Just replaced my 3000 lb Barker with the 5000lb Brute. This thing is awesome. Very impressed with the operation. The lights are bright, there's three of them instead of one. The remote works as advertised; kind of a large key FOB style but that's okay. Was disappointed to confirm that it is MADE IN CHINA but for $269 I already knew it was. Light weight Chinese stuff is nice when you want to lower your tongue weight!

Things I learned the hard way:

1) The Brute does not come with any electrical connectors and you need to splice in the 30 amp breaker.
2) It also does not come with a ring connector which also needs to be spliced in. My town apparently does not sell them in 3/8 for a 10 gauge wire so I had to cut off the terminal from the old Barker. Not the end of the world but they should say that in the list of items needed.
3) Three stainless washers are needed to properly secure the star washers and bolts. A trip to the hardware store for $.39 cents worth of washers.
4) The Brute grounds to the frame and power connects to the positive lead on the battery. (Opposite of the Barker) I was testing the unit before committing to the install and I thought it wasn't working properly because I hadn't fully tightened the bolts. I learned this when my wrench began arching to the frame as I tightened it.
5) The Brute comes with a level but no way to attach it or instructions on how. I spoke with Husky (very easy to get them on the phone) and they suggested I just use... carpet tape...(?) Regardless, the top of the unit is not flat so even if I got it on there with some 3M tape it wouldn't indicate true level.

The made in China part was my biggest disappointment as well, but I canít not like the jack because itís fantastic. It even looks good with our Airstreams.

Regarding the level, I didnít attach the goofy one that came with it either, I figured thatís where the remote comes in handy. I can be inside with a torpedo level adjusting level to perfection.
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Old 10-06-2017, 07:26 PM   #31
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The made in China part was my biggest disappointment as well, but I canít not like the jack because itís fantastic. It even looks good with our Airstreams.

Regarding the level, I didnít attach the goofy one that came with it either, I figured thatís where the remote comes in handy. I can be inside with a torpedo level adjusting level to perfection.

Oh my gosh, you're right! I can just step away from the trailer and "eye" it too! Never thought of that.
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Old 10-07-2017, 05:39 AM   #32
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Curious, I read people criticizing the Husky for being made in China. I have been looking and have not been able to find a jack actually made in the US.
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Old 10-07-2017, 04:27 PM   #33
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Curious, I read people criticizing the Husky for being made in China. I have been looking and have not been able to find a jack actually made in the US.


I believe the Barker jacks are made in the US, and the piece of junk Atwood that I took off actually said made in the US.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:21 PM   #34
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Curious, I read people criticizing the Husky for being made in China. I have been looking and have not been able to find a jack actually made in the US.


Barkers are made in the US. It's rare to see American made be so inferior in so many ways. Some of that may just be that Airstream chooses to use a jack that isn't strong enough when also lifting a truck.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:26 PM   #35
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I believe the Husky instructions actually say to put the star washers on top of the jack flange, but I thought it looked terrible. Pro of putting them on top of the flange though is that the flange could mate more completely with the surface of the tongue.

They do say to put them on the top of the jack flange. That was surprising given that the Barker only used one and it was under the flange. I decided to go with what the directions said to ensure more flush contact with the tongue.
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Old 10-09-2017, 02:33 PM   #36
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I also wasn't sure what to do with the bubble level, but will be using a spot of glue and attaching it to the A frame rail just behind where my WDH hanger sits on the right hand side.
I went with the 4000 and didn't see the need for the remote, so this bubble level basically gets me close, actually so close that I have not had any issues with it not being level after I was done.
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Old 10-15-2017, 08:17 AM   #37
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BTW, if your jack is so powerful as to lift the truck's rear wheels off the ground, then think of the stress you just put on the dinky stamped coupler lock!

Quote:
Originally Posted by chaseav View Post
They do say to put them on the top of the jack flange. That was surprising given that the Barker only used one and it was under the flange. I decided to go with what the directions said to ensure more flush contact with the tongue.
Assuming the star washer cuts through the paint, then the ground is carried through the mounting bolt to the frame threads, not through the flange. I'd go with the star washer above, so that you don't leave a gap for rust and water under the flange.
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Old 10-15-2017, 08:50 AM   #38
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UPDATE: I just downloaded the Barker Super Jack instruction manual and it clearly disagrees with me. It shows three star washers and shows them under the flange, above the coupler.
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Old 10-15-2017, 07:45 PM   #39
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I was really surprised how corroded the single star washer was under my Barker flange. And yes, I agree... gotta be careful how much you ask of your lift even if it's capable of it. One thing that was *REALLY* killing my Barker was that my new tow vehicle has a self leveling mechanism and when it's in it's lowest position (when first hitching the AS) then lifting to put on the WD bars, I'm having to lift up quite a bit of the weight of the TV as well. I, and anyone that has this feature, needs to be mindful of this and allow the shocks to raise before putting on the WD bars.
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