Electric tongue jack replacement

[wulfraat]

Originally Posted by dmcgaugh

I installed a Husky Super Brute a few months ago because I hated the Atwood that came with my 2017. Great jack, silver looks nice with the AS and the remote is kinda handy too. Attachment 293237

Did you re-install the star washer to make for an improved ground connection between the jack plate and the A-frame platform?

Also - does your tailgate still open the the jack oriented in the forward position?

Thanks! I have a 2017 30' as well - the standard jack clicks and such when under load. I think it's just a matter of time before it gives out.

[dmcgaugh]

Originally Posted by wulfraat

Did you re-install the star washer to make for an improved ground connection between the jack plate and the A-frame platform?

Also - does your tailgate still open the the jack oriented in the forward position?

Thanks! I have a 2017 30' as well - the standard jack clicks and such when under load. I think it's just a matter of time before it gives out.

I did install the star washers between the jack flange and the tongue of the trailer, but used one on each bolt instead of just the front bolt so that the jack would sit flatter on the tongue. I believe the Husky instructions actually say to put the star washers on top of the jack flange, but I thought it looked terrible. Pro of putting them on top of the flange though is that the flange could mate more completely with the surface of the tongue.

My tailgate hits the jack when I try to open it. I thought about turning it 90 degrees like people often do with the Barker jacks, but I figured with the shape of the jack head, it wouldn't buy me much.

I'd also recommend stopping by the hardware store and getting a role of Armaflex tape (black foam on one side and tape glue on the other). Put a strip of this on the side of the jack head facing the propane tank cover to protect it from scratches when taking it on and off.

And yes, I hated the slipping clutch "feature" if the Atwood. Cheap, cheap, cheap. Even looks cheap. If Airstream were still putting on the Barker jacks, I probably wouldn't have replaced mine.

[wulfraat]

Thanks for the intel. Bummer on the tailgate no longer opening (I assume it opened with the factory jack)

[m.hony]

I think they say use a higher capacity jack because we tend to raise the truck and trailer together to easily install/remove the weight bars by hand without using the little lever/pry bar that comes with the weight distribution hitch.
You aren't just lifting the trailer.
You are lifting the trailer and truck.

[Rgentum]

Awchief wrote: "My jack is currently in the process of self destructing. I am going to replace it with the Husky 82022 Super Brute Electric Jack with Remote Control - 5000 lb. Capacity."
________________________

The jack that came with my 27 crapped out two AS rallies ago. When I got home I looked for the end-all-be-all jack, found the 5,000 lb Husky Super Brute, bought one, installed it easily, & it WORKS!!!

Proviso: Amazon has them, but they are available less expensively elsewhere on the Internet. I paid $235 for mine including free shipping from rvupgrades.com

[Fred L]

Thanks for the advice on RV Upgrades. Just picked up the 4000 lb for $192.

[Fred L]

Just a quick update. Great power jack - so far. Install was less than 30mins, nothing exciting. Very smooth and extra lights are appreciated.
Doesn't "appear" that you could turn it sideways without drilling new mount holes, but I haven't had the need as the tailgate on my Land Cruiser is short and fits perfectly.

[Action]

"Just a quick update. ... Install was less than 30mins, nothing exciting. "

I have reached a point in my life that "nothing exciting" sounds appealing!

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[chaseav]

Just replaced my 3000 lb Barker with the 5000lb Brute. This thing is awesome. Very impressed with the operation. The lights are bright, there's three of them instead of one. The remote works as advertised; kind of a large key FOB style but that's okay. Was disappointed to confirm that it is MADE IN CHINA but for $269 I already knew it was. Light weight Chinese stuff is nice when you want to lower your tongue weight!

Things I learned the hard way:

1) The Brute does not come with any electrical connectors and you need to splice in the 30 amp breaker.
2) It also does not come with a ring connector which also needs to be spliced in. My town apparently does not sell them in 3/8 for a 10 gauge wire so I had to cut off the terminal from the old Barker. Not the end of the world but they should say that in the list of items needed.
3) Three stainless washers are needed to properly secure the star washers and bolts. A trip to the hardware store for $.39 cents worth of washers.
4) The Brute grounds to the frame and power connects to the positive lead on the battery. (Opposite of the Barker) I was testing the unit before committing to the install and I thought it wasn't working properly because I hadn't fully tightened the bolts. I learned this when my wrench began arching to the frame as I tightened it.
5) The Brute comes with a level but no way to attach it or instructions on how. I spoke with Husky (very easy to get them on the phone) and they suggested I just use... carpet tape...(?) Regardless, the top of the unit is not flat so even if I got it on there with some 3M tape it wouldn't indicate true level.

[dmcgaugh]

Originally Posted by chaseav

Just replaced my 3000 lb Barker with the 5000lb Brute. This thing is awesome. Very impressed with the operation. The lights are bright, there's three of them instead of one. The remote works as advertised; kind of a large key FOB style but that's okay. Was disappointed to confirm that it is MADE IN CHINA but for $269 I already knew it was. Light weight Chinese stuff is nice when you want to lower your tongue weight!

Things I learned the hard way:

1) The Brute does not come with any electrical connectors and you need to splice in the 30 amp breaker.
2) It also does not come with a ring connector which also needs to be spliced in. My town apparently does not sell them in 3/8 for a 10 gauge wire so I had to cut off the terminal from the old Barker. Not the end of the world but they should say that in the list of items needed.
3) Three stainless washers are needed to properly secure the star washers and bolts. A trip to the hardware store for $.39 cents worth of washers.
4) The Brute grounds to the frame and power connects to the positive lead on the battery. (Opposite of the Barker) I was testing the unit before committing to the install and I thought it wasn't working properly because I hadn't fully tightened the bolts. I learned this when my wrench began arching to the frame as I tightened it.
5) The Brute comes with a level but no way to attach it or instructions on how. I spoke with Husky (very easy to get them on the phone) and they suggested I just use... carpet tape...(?) Regardless, the top of the unit is not flat so even if I got it on there with some 3M tape it wouldn't indicate true level.

The made in China part was my biggest disappointment as well, but I can’t not like the jack because it’s fantastic. It even looks good with our Airstreams.

Regarding the level, I didn’t attach the goofy one that came with it either, I figured that’s where the remote comes in handy. I can be inside with a torpedo level adjusting level to perfection.

[chaseav]

Originally Posted by dmcgaugh

The made in China part was my biggest disappointment as well, but I can’t not like the jack because it’s fantastic. It even looks good with our Airstreams.

Regarding the level, I didn’t attach the goofy one that came with it either, I figured that’s where the remote comes in handy. I can be inside with a torpedo level adjusting level to perfection.

Oh my gosh, you're right! I can just step away from the trailer and "eye" it too! Never thought of that.

[AWCHIEF]

Curious, I read people criticizing the Husky for being made in China. I have been looking and have not been able to find a jack actually made in the US.

[dmcgaugh]

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

Curious, I read people criticizing the Husky for being made in China. I have been looking and have not been able to find a jack actually made in the US.

I believe the Barker jacks are made in the US, and the piece of junk Atwood that I took off actually said made in the US.

[chaseav]

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

Curious, I read people criticizing the Husky for being made in China. I have been looking and have not been able to find a jack actually made in the US.

Barkers are made in the US. It's rare to see American made be so inferior in so many ways. Some of that may just be that Airstream chooses to use a jack that isn't strong enough when also lifting a truck.

[chaseav]

Originally Posted by dmcgaugh

I believe the Husky instructions actually say to put the star washers on top of the jack flange, but I thought it looked terrible. Pro of putting them on top of the flange though is that the flange could mate more completely with the surface of the tongue.

They do say to put them on the top of the jack flange. That was surprising given that the Barker only used one and it was under the flange. I decided to go with what the directions said to ensure more flush contact with the tongue.

[Fred L]

I also wasn't sure what to do with the bubble level, but will be using a spot of glue and attaching it to the A frame rail just behind where my WDH hanger sits on the right hand side.
I went with the 4000 and didn't see the need for the remote, so this bubble level basically gets me close, actually so close that I have not had any issues with it not being level after I was done.

[Mollysdad]

BTW, if your jack is so powerful as to lift the truck's rear wheels off the ground, then think of the stress you just put on the dinky stamped coupler lock!

Originally Posted by chaseav

They do say to put them on the top of the jack flange. That was surprising given that the Barker only used one and it was under the flange. I decided to go with what the directions said to ensure more flush contact with the tongue.

Assuming the star washer cuts through the paint, then the ground is carried through the mounting bolt to the frame threads, not through the flange. I'd go with the star washer above, so that you don't leave a gap for rust and water under the flange.

[Mollysdad]

UPDATE: I just downloaded the Barker Super Jack instruction manual and it clearly disagrees with me. It shows three star washers and shows them under the flange, above the coupler.

[chaseav]

I was really surprised how corroded the single star washer was under my Barker flange. And yes, I agree... gotta be careful how much you ask of your lift even if it's capable of it. One thing that was *REALLY* killing my Barker was that my new tow vehicle has a self leveling mechanism and when it's in it's lowest position (when first hitching the AS) then lifting to put on the WD bars, I'm having to lift up quite a bit of the weight of the TV as well. I, and anyone that has this feature, needs to be mindful of this and allow the shocks to raise before putting on the WD bars.

[WestieHouse]

[QUOTE=dmcgaugh;2018392]The made in China part was my biggest disappointment as well, but I can’t not like the jack because it’s fantastic. It even looks good with our Airstreams.

Hmmm, as I was installing my new 5,000 lb. Husky Super Brute today I noticed that the base holding the LPG tanks on my 2015 23 FB is clearly stamped “Made in China”.

On a more relevant note, the install went very well and required about an hour start to finish. My son-in-law took care of the electrical connection and I did the mechanical aspects of the removal / install.

Most of what was said above was also true for me EXCEPT the Barker manual and the actual connection is the same as for the Husky - BOTH are negative ground to the frame and + connection to the battery.

Thanks to those who noted the absence of washers and electrical connectors, I had purchased the necessary items in advance. Also, the single Barker star washer was placed between the flange and the coupler/frame as is also shown in the manual. But the Husky manual clearly illustrates and instructs that the star washers be placed above the flange. The star washers WERE included with the jack, but not the flat washers.

The install went very well following the manual and everything worked as expected. Even the remote fobs worked immediately without any need for programming or other magic.

The Husky definitely looks like a much better match aesthetically and th3 additional capacity will solve the nightmares I’ve experienced since day 1. These included blown “slow-blow” fuses that are difficult to find, excessive challenges/strain lifting the rear of the tow vehicle to install the WD bars due to air leveling suspension on my TV, and a blown limit switch. The Husky uses a resettable breaker and no fuses needed.

The cheap and non-functional level is unnecessary. I’ll level F-B while inside the AS using a level on the refer and the remote fob, which can stay in the AS, too (though it comes with two).

I actually look forward to hitching and unhitching this coming week during a trip to San Diego!