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Old 11-09-2007, 07:37 PM   #29
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As an aside, my "new to me" Safari has a weak electric jack, in that it runs, but unexpectedly starts clicking under load. Tried to get the head off to oil it, but the allen screws are rusted in--bent the allen wrench and neither one budged (with Liquid Wrench, too). Tried to drill the little buggers out but they must be made out of diamond, drills hardly touch them. What now?

Zep
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Old 11-09-2007, 08:01 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
As an aside, my "new to me" Safari has a weak electric jack, in that it runs, but unexpectedly starts clicking under load. Tried to get the head off to oil it, but the allen screws are rusted in--bent the allen wrench and neither one budged (with Liquid Wrench, too). Tried to drill the little buggers out but they must be made out of diamond, drills hardly touch them. What now?

Zep
Diamond drills!
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Old 11-09-2007, 08:04 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
Diamond drills!
Great idea! The person I live with has some diamond earrings she never wears.... I could spin them like a boy scout with a fire stick.

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Old 11-09-2007, 08:30 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
As an aside, my "new to me" Safari has a weak electric jack, in that it runs, but unexpectedly starts clicking under load. Tried to get the head off to oil it, but the allen screws are rusted in--bent the allen wrench and neither one budged (with Liquid Wrench, too). Tried to drill the little buggers out but they must be made out of diamond, drills hardly touch them. What now?

Zep
If you tried the drill it may be too late for this...
A little bit of heat from a torch around the area of the bolts may loosen them, along with some vibration in the form of a hammer on the head of the bolt. Give the liquid wrench plenty of time to soak in and penetrate(hours sometimes). Go back periodically with a hammer and tap on them as they soak.
If the drill has destroyed the hex, a pair of vice-grips may give you enough pressure to break them loose.
Good luck, these can be buggers.
Dave
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Old 11-09-2007, 08:47 PM   #33
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How stupid of me not to remember the torch and hammer. Thanks.

I think I'll be drilling and taping new holes--there's plenty of real estate on the collar coming down from the head.

Zep
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Old 11-09-2007, 08:53 PM   #34
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How stupid of me not to remember the torch and hammer. Thanks.

I think I'll be drilling and taping new holes--there's plenty of real estate on the collar coming down from the head.

Zep
In my past life I was a mechanic. Take a serious look at a left hand drill bit. No joke. They will get bolts out that easy-outs only destroy.
Make a pilot hole with a normal bit - they're cheaper. Use the next size larger left hand bit (don't forget to switch the drill to run left) and it will bite the edge of the pilot hole, usually screwing the bolt back out. It seems to be a combination of heat from the drilling process, weakening of the bolt and the left hand pressure.
They are available through Snap-On and a bit pricey, but so worth it. I haven't tried an easy-out in years.
Dave
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Old 11-09-2007, 09:45 PM   #35
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How about an impact screwdriver with an allen tip . The kind you hit with a hammer and turn at the same time .
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Old 11-09-2007, 10:25 PM   #36
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if you have the room, one other thing to try is to cut a slot in the head and try a large screwdriver to turn it. again, if you have the room, you can cut the notch with an air powered cutoff tool.
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Old 11-10-2007, 07:55 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
Great idea! The person I live with has some diamond earrings she never wears.... I could spin them like a boy scout with a fire stick.

Zep
Hey Zep,

Great suggestions so far. I especially like the electric impact idea. I keep a DeWalt 18V model in my van and use it a lot to break free stuck fasteners.

If the easy-out won't work and you have to drill it out, try a carbide bit on slow speed with a good cutting fluid If THAT won't work, let me know as I do have diamond drills and can send you some to get the little bugger out!

Ain't no stinkin' bolt gonna git the best of me!
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Old 11-10-2007, 12:08 PM   #38
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Thanks, everyone. All great suggestions. I'll give most of them a try before I'm done, I'm sure. They are completely rounded inside and very short depth, so the easy-out is probably a non-starter. I like the impact idea and the left handed bit. But I'm leaning towards a thin cutoff blade to slice horizontally down to the depth of the screw/bolt, then drill and tap a nearby hole to replace them.

Hey, I've had the tap set (metric and english) for 40 years and not used them to speak of.

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Old 11-11-2007, 12:15 AM   #39
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Left hand drill bit

I was a Snap-On dealer for 17 years. The left hand drill bit trick usually works. Hint....nothing will remove the screw unless the threads are free.....nothing. I learned that from a customer who worked on sterndrives with stainless bolts and aluminum housings. If the threads are not free, the left hand drill bit will drill a new hole in the bolt. Trust me.....

One set of Snap-On stud extractors comes with left hand drill bits. Sometimes when drilling the hole in the broken stud, the heat will free the threads and the left hand bit will extract it. No extractor needed.
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Old 11-17-2007, 02:56 PM   #40
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Not sure what brand was used in '66, however it's still wworking. The wires are a bit of a mess, however when it is wired up it works well. We have enough manuels here so the power is very nice.

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Old 12-09-2007, 05:51 PM   #41
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Well, in the end I cut the allen screws out with a narrow grinder. You can see from the photo I started with a fairly fat wheel, but soon switched to a thin 3" diameter wheel. It looks eat up, but I don't think it hurt the structure at all and the casting had lots of room for additional tapped holes. The casting is really easy to tap--a #7 bit and a 1/4-20 tap.

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The down side is that after you take the motor head off the post, I found on both of mine that the motor and gears seemed to run smoothly, but the threaded rod in the post was all buggered up. I think one of them is salvageable, but runs rough. It's impossible to get inside--I finally drilled a small hole about half way down the outer cylinder and squirted lots of liquid wrench inside (with the inner cylinder both up and down), but it didn't do any good at all as far as I could tell.

I was fascinated to take the gear head apart and look inside--the intermediate gear is made out of bakelite! That or it's steel colored to look exactly like bakelite, even in cross section.

By the way, does anyone know the load capability of these original '70s jacks?

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Old 12-09-2007, 06:11 PM   #42
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Hi All,

Found all the left hand drills you could want in a variety of sizes at McMaster-Carr.
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