Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-28-2004, 08:27 PM   #1
3 Rivet Member
 
andyfuson's Avatar
 
2004 25' International CCD
Stone Mountain , Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 103
Images: 15
Question Door won't close right

I have a 25' 2004 International CCD. I am having trouble closing the door all of the way. You really have to slam it hard to get it shut all of the way. I notice it the most after leveling on an uneven site. It seems that the jacks torque the trailer in such a way that the door becomes out of alignment. I can see that the bottom of the door is hitting the threshold.It is especially hard to close from inside the trailer. Any advice or other info is appreciated.

Andy
andyfuson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2004, 08:35 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
RoadKingMoe's Avatar
 
2001 34' Limited
The State of , Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,605
Images: 23
If you are trying to use the stabilizers as jacks, you are twisting and warping the frame and the trailer, and that's why the door won't close properly.

To level an Airstream, you pull it forward and backward while putting leveling blocks under the tires on the low side. Once the trailer is leveled side to side, you level it fore and aft with the tongue jack.

Once the trailer is level, you extend the stabilizers until the JUST BARELY touch the ground. The primary purpose of the stabilizers is to take the bounce out of the trailer when you walk toward the ends.

They are NOT to be used as leveling jacks or you can damage the Airstream. The Airstream is designed only to be jacked at the tongue, or at the points indicated by your manual.
__________________
Maurice
RoadKingMoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2004, 08:39 PM   #3
3 Rivet Member
 
andyfuson's Avatar
 
2004 25' International CCD
Stone Mountain , Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 103
Images: 15
Wow

I had no idea! The dealer never mentioned that at all. I have most definetly been using the jacks to level. So boards are the key. Guess I had better buy some.

Thanks, Andy
andyfuson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2004, 09:09 PM   #4
Aluminut
 
Silvertwinkie's Avatar
 
2004 25' Safari
. , Illinois
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,477
What Moe said.....never, never do that with the stabil jacks. If you don't want to buy blocks, just cut up a 2x8...works well leveling the coach.
Silvertwinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2004, 11:32 PM   #5
1 Rivet Member
 
qbee's Avatar
 
1987 34.5' Airstream 345
golden valley , Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 6
I also have a door aligniment problem, I just purchased a 87 345 in new mexico while on vacation, I have read about the stabilizers,blocks and leveling. my question is this something I can do my self by changing the hinge pins, is there more to it than that or is this best left to a professional? I live in northern calif. sandra
qbee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2004, 09:26 AM   #6
3 Rivet Member
 
andyfuson's Avatar
 
2004 25' International CCD
Stone Mountain , Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 103
Images: 15
Thanks for the help. I will try the blocks next time.

Andy
andyfuson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2004, 11:04 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
87MH's Avatar
 
1978 31' Sovereign
Texas Airstream Harbor , Zavalla, in the Deep East Texas Piney Woods on Lake Sam Rayburn
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,435
Images: 292
Another '87 345 Door Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by qbee
I also have a door aligniment problem, I just purchased a 87 345 in new mexico while on vacation, I have read about the stabilizers,blocks and leveling. my question is this something I can do my self by changing the hinge pins, is there more to it than that or is this best left to a professional? I live in northern calif. sandra
Sandra:

I have found on my 345 that the problem with door alignment is in the hinge to frame bolts, not the hinge pins.

For some reason, the nuts want to back off. You can access the nuts by lifting the ineriior skin just forward of the door frame. Some of the interior "niceties" (wood trim and cloth panels) will have to be removed, but if you are careful, access to the nuts can be accomplished without permanently deforming the interior aluminum panels. I'm using new SS nuts with nylon lock inserts rather than lock washers to fight the backoff problem.

On the leveling, the MoHo jacks do a pretty good job of levelling fore and aft, but will twist the frame if you atempt to level crossways. I carry 12" wide boards of varying lengths with a 45 degree cut on two ends to assist ramping up in order to level right to left.

Check out the thread "Motor Home Serial Numbers", your numbers would be appreciated.
__________________
Dennis

"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."

WBCCI # 1113
AirForums #1737

Trailer '78 31' Sovereign

Living Large at an Airstream Park on the Largest Lake Totally Contained in Texas
Texas Airstream Harbor, Inc.
87MH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2004, 07:53 AM   #8
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 21
I have the same problem on my 2004 Safari 25. It is the same whether level with or without blocks or stabilizers. If someone can come up with another remedy I'd appreciate it! Hugh
__________________
Hugh & Nita
Pensacola FL
Hugh & Nita is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2004, 09:56 AM   #9
Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
 
Inland RV Center, In's Avatar
 
Corona , California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
Images: 1
There is another "major" cause for the entrance door having to be slammed, only to have it "sometimes" close.

Get out the can of stupid spray (silicone spray) and lube the striker plate and bolt.

Works every time.

Andy

__________________
Andy Rogozinski
Inland RV Center
Corona, CA
Inland RV Center, In is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2004, 12:26 PM   #10
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 21
"Stupid spray" worked like a charm! Your RV business needs to move about 2,000 miles east to help us out in the "Deep South"!
__________________
Hugh & Nita
Pensacola FL
Hugh & Nita is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2004, 12:44 PM   #11
Rivet Master
 
gklott's Avatar
 
2004 30' Classic
Johnson City , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 591
Images: 86
Our door is also hard to open and close, with or without stabalizers deployed. So we use the lube too. Helps more on closing than opening.

On the stabalizers, we put them down firmly, but not so as to assume the weight of the trailer. We try not to "raise" the body up with them, using an electric drill.

73/gus
__________________
Gus - KR4K : Mary - K5MCL
2004 30ft. Classic
2017 Infiniti QX80 Limited
ProPride 3P/Prodigy P3
gklott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2006, 07:14 AM   #12
3 Rivet Member
 
classic67's Avatar
 
2005 31' Classic
Hughsonville , New York
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 151
Images: 5
Once again, Kudos to the search feature for helping me fine this thread about a hard closing door and those who posted to this thread a few years back . Yesterday I noticed I too had to give a little extra "umphh" to close the door so it was flush to the body in order to engage the deadbolt. I will recheck the leveling side to side and for and aft, then give the door mechanisms a shot of silicone spray and see if that corrects the problem.
__________________
Den
classic67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2006, 07:23 AM   #13
3 Rivet Member
 
B25guy's Avatar
 
2003 25' Safari
Yakima , Washington
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 153
Images: 20
Lube the latch

During my last trip, I too was noting the extra effort to close the door. I sprayed white lithium grease (I use this lots on my other vehicle's door hinges, hood latch, etc. because it stays/sticks really good) into the mechanism and voila, door now closes smoothly and quietly.

I've put this on my quarterly maintanence list.
B25guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2006, 08:18 AM   #14
3 Rivet Member
 
classic67's Avatar
 
2005 31' Classic
Hughsonville , New York
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 151
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by B25guy
During my last trip, I too was noting the extra effort to close the door. I sprayed white lithium grease (I use this lots on my other vehicle's door hinges, hood latch, etc. because it stays/sticks really good) into the mechanism and voila, door now closes smoothly and quietly.

I've put this on my quarterly maintanence list.
B25guy, thanks for sharing your experience. I will try the white lithium grease 'wlg' instead of the silicone as you mentioned. The 'wlg' will probably stay put better as you said.
__________________
Den
classic67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Airstream Forum Blues-suggestions for forum usage hex Our Community 18 10-20-2002 11:12 AM
Polishing Blues. TBKP's Overlander Cleaning, Stripping & Polishing 19 10-12-2002 07:57 AM
GREAT TECH INFO - good advice COArgosy78 General Repair Forum 6 10-11-2002 01:08 PM
Ford Windstar Gordon Watt Tow Vehicles 61 08-23-2002 08:33 AM
Next Classic Airstream Motorhome Rally winner WBCCI Rallies & Events 38 04-24-2002 11:22 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.