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05-28-2004, 08:27 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
2004 25' International CCD
Stone Mountain
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 103
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Door won't close right
I have a 25' 2004 International CCD. I am having trouble closing the door all of the way. You really have to slam it hard to get it shut all of the way. I notice it the most after leveling on an uneven site. It seems that the jacks torque the trailer in such a way that the door becomes out of alignment. I can see that the bottom of the door is hitting the threshold.It is especially hard to close from inside the trailer. Any advice or other info is appreciated.
Andy
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05-28-2004, 08:35 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2001 34' Limited
The State of
, Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,605
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If you are trying to use the stabilizers as jacks, you are twisting and warping the frame and the trailer, and that's why the door won't close properly.
To level an Airstream, you pull it forward and backward while putting leveling blocks under the tires on the low side. Once the trailer is leveled side to side, you level it fore and aft with the tongue jack.
Once the trailer is level, you extend the stabilizers until the JUST BARELY touch the ground. The primary purpose of the stabilizers is to take the bounce out of the trailer when you walk toward the ends.
They are NOT to be used as leveling jacks or you can damage the Airstream. The Airstream is designed only to be jacked at the tongue, or at the points indicated by your manual.
__________________
Maurice
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05-28-2004, 08:39 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
2004 25' International CCD
Stone Mountain
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 103
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Wow
I had no idea! The dealer never mentioned that at all. I have most definetly been using the jacks to level. So boards are the key. Guess I had better buy some.
Thanks, Andy
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05-28-2004, 09:09 PM
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#4
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Aluminut
2004 25' Safari
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, Illinois
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,477
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What Moe said.....never, never do that with the stabil jacks. If you don't want to buy blocks, just cut up a 2x8...works well leveling the coach.
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05-28-2004, 11:32 PM
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#5
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1 Rivet Member
1987 34.5' Airstream 345
golden valley
, Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 6
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I also have a door aligniment problem, I just purchased a 87 345 in new mexico while on vacation, I have read about the stabilizers,blocks and leveling. my question is this something I can do my self by changing the hinge pins, is there more to it than that or is this best left to a professional? I live in northern calif. sandra
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05-29-2004, 09:26 AM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member
2004 25' International CCD
Stone Mountain
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 103
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Thanks for the help. I will try the blocks next time.
Andy
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05-29-2004, 11:04 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1978 31' Sovereign
Texas Airstream Harbor
, Zavalla, in the Deep East Texas Piney Woods on Lake Sam Rayburn
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,435
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Another '87 345 Door Problem
Quote:
Originally Posted by qbee
I also have a door aligniment problem, I just purchased a 87 345 in new mexico while on vacation, I have read about the stabilizers,blocks and leveling. my question is this something I can do my self by changing the hinge pins, is there more to it than that or is this best left to a professional? I live in northern calif. sandra
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Sandra:
I have found on my 345 that the problem with door alignment is in the hinge to frame bolts, not the hinge pins.
For some reason, the nuts want to back off. You can access the nuts by lifting the ineriior skin just forward of the door frame. Some of the interior "niceties" (wood trim and cloth panels) will have to be removed, but if you are careful, access to the nuts can be accomplished without permanently deforming the interior aluminum panels. I'm using new SS nuts with nylon lock inserts rather than lock washers to fight the backoff problem.
On the leveling, the MoHo jacks do a pretty good job of levelling fore and aft, but will twist the frame if you atempt to level crossways. I carry 12" wide boards of varying lengths with a 45 degree cut on two ends to assist ramping up in order to level right to left.
Check out the thread "Motor Home Serial Numbers", your numbers would be appreciated.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
WBCCI # 1113
AirForums #1737
Trailer '78 31' Sovereign
Living Large at an Airstream Park on the Largest Lake Totally Contained in Texas
Texas Airstream Harbor, Inc.
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06-11-2004, 07:53 AM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 21
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I have the same problem on my 2004 Safari 25. It is the same whether level with or without blocks or stabilizers. If someone can come up with another remedy I'd appreciate it! Hugh
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Hugh & Nita
Pensacola FL
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06-11-2004, 09:56 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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There is another "major" cause for the entrance door having to be slammed, only to have it "sometimes" close.
Get out the can of stupid spray (silicone spray) and lube the striker plate and bolt.
Works every time.
Andy
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06-11-2004, 12:26 PM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 21
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"Stupid spray" worked like a charm! Your RV business needs to move about 2,000 miles east to help us out in the "Deep South"!
__________________
Hugh & Nita
Pensacola FL
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06-11-2004, 12:44 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2004 30' Classic
Johnson City
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 591
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Our door is also hard to open and close, with or without stabalizers deployed. So we use the lube too. Helps more on closing than opening.
On the stabalizers, we put them down firmly, but not so as to assume the weight of the trailer. We try not to "raise" the body up with them, using an electric drill.
73/gus
__________________
Gus - KR4K : Mary - K5MCL
2004 30ft. Classic
2017 Infiniti QX80 Limited
ProPride 3P/Prodigy P3
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07-26-2006, 07:14 AM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
2005 31' Classic
Hughsonville
, New York
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 151
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Once again, Kudos to the search feature for helping me fine this thread about a hard closing door and those who posted to this thread a few years back . Yesterday I noticed I too had to give a little extra "umphh" to close the door so it was flush to the body in order to engage the deadbolt. I will recheck the leveling side to side and for and aft, then give the door mechanisms a shot of silicone spray and see if that corrects the problem.
__________________
Den
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07-26-2006, 07:23 AM
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#13
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3 Rivet Member
2003 25' Safari
Yakima
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 153
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Lube the latch
During my last trip, I too was noting the extra effort to close the door. I sprayed white lithium grease (I use this lots on my other vehicle's door hinges, hood latch, etc. because it stays/sticks really good) into the mechanism and voila, door now closes smoothly and quietly.
I've put this on my quarterly maintanence list.
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07-26-2006, 08:18 AM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member
2005 31' Classic
Hughsonville
, New York
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B25guy
During my last trip, I too was noting the extra effort to close the door. I sprayed white lithium grease (I use this lots on my other vehicle's door hinges, hood latch, etc. because it stays/sticks really good) into the mechanism and voila, door now closes smoothly and quietly.
I've put this on my quarterly maintanence list.
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B25guy, thanks for sharing your experience. I will try the white lithium grease 'wlg' instead of the silicone as you mentioned. The 'wlg' will probably stay put better as you said.
__________________
Den
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