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Old 05-28-2004, 09:27 PM   #1
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2004 25' International CCD
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Question Door won't close right

I have a 25' 2004 International CCD. I am having trouble closing the door all of the way. You really have to slam it hard to get it shut all of the way. I notice it the most after leveling on an uneven site. It seems that the jacks torque the trailer in such a way that the door becomes out of alignment. I can see that the bottom of the door is hitting the threshold.It is especially hard to close from inside the trailer. Any advice or other info is appreciated.

Andy
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Old 05-28-2004, 09:35 PM   #2
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If you are trying to use the stabilizers as jacks, you are twisting and warping the frame and the trailer, and that's why the door won't close properly.

To level an Airstream, you pull it forward and backward while putting leveling blocks under the tires on the low side. Once the trailer is leveled side to side, you level it fore and aft with the tongue jack.

Once the trailer is level, you extend the stabilizers until the JUST BARELY touch the ground. The primary purpose of the stabilizers is to take the bounce out of the trailer when you walk toward the ends.

They are NOT to be used as leveling jacks or you can damage the Airstream. The Airstream is designed only to be jacked at the tongue, or at the points indicated by your manual.
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Old 05-28-2004, 09:39 PM   #3
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Wow

I had no idea! The dealer never mentioned that at all. I have most definetly been using the jacks to level. So boards are the key. Guess I had better buy some.

Thanks, Andy
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Old 05-28-2004, 10:09 PM   #4
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What Moe said.....never, never do that with the stabil jacks. If you don't want to buy blocks, just cut up a 2x8...works well leveling the coach.
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Old 05-29-2004, 12:32 AM   #5
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I also have a door aligniment problem, I just purchased a 87 345 in new mexico while on vacation, I have read about the stabilizers,blocks and leveling. my question is this something I can do my self by changing the hinge pins, is there more to it than that or is this best left to a professional? I live in northern calif. sandra
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Old 05-29-2004, 10:26 AM   #6
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Thanks for the help. I will try the blocks next time.

Andy
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Old 05-29-2004, 12:04 PM   #7
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Another '87 345 Door Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by qbee
I also have a door aligniment problem, I just purchased a 87 345 in new mexico while on vacation, I have read about the stabilizers,blocks and leveling. my question is this something I can do my self by changing the hinge pins, is there more to it than that or is this best left to a professional? I live in northern calif. sandra
Sandra:

I have found on my 345 that the problem with door alignment is in the hinge to frame bolts, not the hinge pins.

For some reason, the nuts want to back off. You can access the nuts by lifting the ineriior skin just forward of the door frame. Some of the interior "niceties" (wood trim and cloth panels) will have to be removed, but if you are careful, access to the nuts can be accomplished without permanently deforming the interior aluminum panels. I'm using new SS nuts with nylon lock inserts rather than lock washers to fight the backoff problem.

On the leveling, the MoHo jacks do a pretty good job of levelling fore and aft, but will twist the frame if you atempt to level crossways. I carry 12" wide boards of varying lengths with a 45 degree cut on two ends to assist ramping up in order to level right to left.

Check out the thread "Motor Home Serial Numbers", your numbers would be appreciated.
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Old 06-11-2004, 08:53 AM   #8
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I have the same problem on my 2004 Safari 25. It is the same whether level with or without blocks or stabilizers. If someone can come up with another remedy I'd appreciate it! Hugh
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Old 06-11-2004, 10:56 AM   #9
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There is another "major" cause for the entrance door having to be slammed, only to have it "sometimes" close.

Get out the can of stupid spray (silicone spray) and lube the striker plate and bolt.

Works every time.

Andy

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Old 06-11-2004, 01:26 PM   #10
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"Stupid spray" worked like a charm! Your RV business needs to move about 2,000 miles east to help us out in the "Deep South"!
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Old 06-11-2004, 01:44 PM   #11
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Our door is also hard to open and close, with or without stabalizers deployed. So we use the lube too. Helps more on closing than opening.

On the stabalizers, we put them down firmly, but not so as to assume the weight of the trailer. We try not to "raise" the body up with them, using an electric drill.

73/gus
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Old 07-26-2006, 08:14 AM   #12
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Once again, Kudos to the search feature for helping me fine this thread about a hard closing door and those who posted to this thread a few years back . Yesterday I noticed I too had to give a little extra "umphh" to close the door so it was flush to the body in order to engage the deadbolt. I will recheck the leveling side to side and for and aft, then give the door mechanisms a shot of silicone spray and see if that corrects the problem.
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Old 07-26-2006, 08:23 AM   #13
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Lube the latch

During my last trip, I too was noting the extra effort to close the door. I sprayed white lithium grease (I use this lots on my other vehicle's door hinges, hood latch, etc. because it stays/sticks really good) into the mechanism and voila, door now closes smoothly and quietly.

I've put this on my quarterly maintanence list.
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Old 07-26-2006, 09:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B25guy
During my last trip, I too was noting the extra effort to close the door. I sprayed white lithium grease (I use this lots on my other vehicle's door hinges, hood latch, etc. because it stays/sticks really good) into the mechanism and voila, door now closes smoothly and quietly.

I've put this on my quarterly maintanence list.
B25guy, thanks for sharing your experience. I will try the white lithium grease 'wlg' instead of the silicone as you mentioned. The 'wlg' will probably stay put better as you said.
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