I have a tong twister I use on the front jack. I have 2 2X4 cut a little longer than the tong twister and use them as needed. If I need more then 2, out come the lego blocks. I recently purchased the Andersen levelers for side to side and am extremely pleased with them. I used to carry 3 sets of legos, but now down to 2 sets. Like others have said, on ground I use at least one lego to spread the load. If a hard surface typically not unless it his a long stretch for the stabilizers. Cordless drill speeds up the stabilizer process.
I finally got tired of replacing cracked chunks of 2X dimensional lumber. A trip to the lumber yard for a 12 FT micro lam (engineered laminated lumber), cut into 1 FT lengths has eliminated all splitting. A combination of lumber and legos satisfies all my leveling issues.
We use a 7" cast aluminum jack stand...love it. They are also available in 4" ... made by a family in Indiana. I have ordering info if anyone is interested in them... PM me.
We use a 7" cast aluminum jack stand...love it. They are also available in 4" ... made by a family in Indiana. I have ordering info if anyone is interested in them... PM me.
We use the 4" version of this for our jack stand. Love it!
We also use the Andersen funky levelers for leveling, the Fastway OneStep tandem wheel chock for chocking and our factory installed stabilizers for stabilizing. :-)
We use wood. We put a 4x4 on its side under the jack, plus enough 2x lumber to level if the front is on the low side of the site.
We have several lengths of 2x lumber on hand for leveling the low side of the wheels. Once, we put a 2x8 (2x6?) across the top of two rocks and parked the wheels on the "bridge" to level the trailer on a fairly steep side hill.
We keep four 3/8 plywood pads for each stabilizer. Our '71 has small feet on the bottom of the stabilizers and the wood helps on soft asphalt or damp ground.
I have been parked where there was a huge slope and the shim capability was good.
The plastic I have come to detest as they will allow things to 'slide'... which can be a good feature... but, not when you want stability... important on the tongue jack...
So, a rule of thumb... I put a 3/4 plywood 'base' to spread the 'load' and keep rocks from damaging the underside of the plastic legos... It is amazing how much easier the Airstream tires seem to 'climb' the wooden blocks... without 'skidding' the plastic blocks which can be a nuisance when trying to set multiple under our 3 axle dainty AS.
If you get some 'sliding' of the wood sheets, a couple of flat head sheet metal screws, one on each corner, will keep things from sliding. Also, you can cut a 45 degree on the leading edge of the board and line them up for a 'ramp'..
Also, the 'stabilizers' tend to move a bit on the plastic legos...so the camper rocks more on them than on a wood base.
Sometimes 'wood' is the best solution for the problem..... depends on your use of your AS.... enjoy.
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
I use Legos as required for levelling side to side and sometimes front to back but I always maintain a non insulated earth connection on at least one of the contact points. So even at an overnight boon dock spot, like Walmart, I will put the jack down. Jim
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I have just read that this is a bad practice. I googled "grounding trailers from lightening". Don't do what I do. I wonder how many other things I do that don't work? Now I've got me nervous. Jim
I have just read that this is a bad practice. I googled "grounding trailers from lightening". Don't do what I do. I wonder how many other things I do that don't work? Now I've got me nervous. Jim
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I am referring to the metal ground, not the Legos. Jim
I have aluminum jack stand posted by TBRich that I pur. in 1976 I only use 2/ lumber painted blue so when muddy or need cleaning simple hose off nice & clean, long for tandem wheels to level under ea. stabilizer & if have to get jack stand higher stack 2/ under stand, only had 1 leveling board slip since 1962
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