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Old 12-01-2018, 10:01 AM   #43
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Hi Bob. I have a '73 31' sov as well and need to replace the hitch. Is the slot diameter the same for your '09 as it is for your '73 by any chance? Hoping it's 2 /4" and I don't want to have to drive across town to measure and and can't find the slot diameter online anywhere.

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Originally Posted by Burnside Bob View Post
Ditto PKI.

Our story: Barker 3500 jack would go up but would balk at going down. Finally called Barker Spring of 2018 and asked for parts dept. Got a very nice lady who patiently listened to my story:

"You have a bad switch."

"OK, can I buy one."

"What year did you say your Airstream was?"

"2009".

"Well, the jack is out of warranty, but if you give me your address I'll send you one."

And she did. Jack has worked perfectly ever since.
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:39 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
I changed to the Husky 5000.
Considering it's power, and having a remote, you can shop it around for about $230.
Now, you say, having a remote is silly? Just wait until you're watching the level of your countertop from INSIDE the trailer.

Installation was super easy, I bought new 3/8" x 16 grade 8 bolts and the jack came with new star washers. I crimped on a 3/8" #10 ring terminal to the included circuit breaker, did a double #10 crimp of the jack wire and I was in business.

No regrets.
...and it's silver!

Our 2014 25í FC is suddenly ready for a new tongue jack - original one died. It looks like the Husky unit is popular.
Would it be possible for you to post a pic of the circuit breaker attached between the jack wire and the battery?
I wonder why Husky just doesnít supply this already done. Iím not a fan of crimping and shrinking.
I guess the 30amp cb just sits in the battery box since there seems to be no other place for it.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:48 AM   #45
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You would never get the wire into the battery box if the breaker were already attached, assuming you want the breaker in the battery box(where it probably should reside). I did not use their breaker, I used a Blue Sea marine-grade thermal breaker that I can manually trip. The Husky breaker can be reset by pushing it, but I cannot see a way to manually trip it.
Larry
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:57 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by lsbrodsky View Post
You would never get the wire into the battery box if the breaker were already attached, assuming you want the breaker in the battery box(where it probably should reside). I did not use their breaker, I used a Blue Sea marine-grade thermal breaker that I can manually trip. The Husky breaker can be reset by pushing it, but I cannot see a way to manually trip it.
Larry
Thanks for the quick reply. I see the reason now. Too bad Husky could not come up with a weatherproof item that could stay out in the weather - maybe attached to the post.
Is the cb that much better than the slow fuse? Iíve had several ASís and several new tongue jacks but never had a fuse problem.
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Old 05-12-2019, 01:30 PM   #47
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I was on a rally once when a friend had a jack problem, would not run. Battery was OK. We pulled the fuse and looked at it, it looked OK. I then measured continuity with a VOM and the fuse was actually open. So she went off to find a SlowBlow 30, apparently not an easy thing to do because she did not get back for about 4 hours. I now understand you can find them at NAPA and such, but not most big box stores.
After that, I decided I wanted a thermal breaker and one I could trip so I could interrupt power to the jack without having to disconnect wires. Just another example of lowest first cost is not the best solution. Husky seems to get the idea since they now provide a breaker with the jack.
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Old 05-16-2019, 11:41 AM   #48
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The jack fuse is not a common one and when I needed one, the only place I could find it was an RV store.

Maybe we were lucky to have a jack last ten years. I wouldn't be surprised if jacks have been cheapened over the years and don't last long anymore. If you have ever cranked a jack by hand, you will probably want to buy a better jack. I'd avoid LCI. They bought the Atwood jack line a couple of years ago and arbitrarily shortened the three year warranty to one even though that would be illegal. LCI sells products under the Lippert name. The Atwood on our Nash lasted one day and did not have a real crank, only an adapter to be turned by a wrench. Turning it took a long, tedious time. They advised using an electric drill and it burned mine out. I got a new jack under warranty, but it was an unpleasant experience all around.
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:00 PM   #49
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"I’m not a fan of crimping and shrinking."

I'm curious as to why. Crimped and shrunk connections are standard in high-end marine applications, which have to withstand a much more severe environment than most RVs will ever see.

I use FTZ Crimp 'N Seal splices. Properly installed, these adhesive-lined shrink-insulated parts provide a gas-tight, watertight, mechanically strong connection. If you need to join two wires, I don't think you can do any better. The American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC), whose detailed standards are the bible for marine electricians (and a good guide for anybody working on RVs), recommends this method over soldered joints.
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:41 PM   #50
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Best Power Jack & Why?

Crimped and heat shrink is also, with a calibrated ratchet crimp tool, good for Aerospace applications.

Soldering is flat out no longer good enough. It makes the wire stiff and fail at the connection point.
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Old 05-16-2019, 02:02 PM   #51
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I don't know why they use slow blo fuses. They can be hard to find. When you do pick up a couple of extra ones.
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Old 05-16-2019, 02:49 PM   #52
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I have a 2013 25FB. I gave up trying to find the (expensive) slow blow fuses for the Barker jack. I use regular 30A fuses . They blow once in a while (more than the slow blow ones did) but not frequently.
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Old 05-16-2019, 03:04 PM   #53
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Many of the newer tongue jacks including the Husky units now incorporate resettable fuses.
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Old 05-16-2019, 03:28 PM   #54
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My Barker was giving me trouble all last year. I think the switch was going again. This first time that happened Barker sent me a new switch which I installed. Worked great for several years. This time I have changed to the Husky with the remote, which I find awesome. I can level the trailer much easier now.
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:26 PM   #55
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Does anyone know if the hand crank for the barker tongue jack also fits the husky brute 4500 tongue jack?
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Old 05-19-2019, 07:21 PM   #56
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Does anyone know if the hand crank for the barker tongue jack also fits the husky brute 4500 tongue jack?
The Husky requires a hex head 7/16" socket.
My solution will be to store a 1/2" drive ratchet with a long extension and a 7/16" six sided socket. Then I can ratchet away without removing the propane tank cover!
Hello, Harbor Freight!
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