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Old 11-11-2018, 05:15 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
Gene,

I used my Husky 4500 yesterday and again today, easiest description about it:

IT'S BORING!

Up, Down, Up, Down. Ho hum.

Gary
Gary,

I'm worried about you. Why would you want an exciting jack? If you want more excitement, jack naked. I expect some excitement may come your way. This is a general rule about getting naked. If you want even more excitement, you will be close to the battery box and can put one hand on each terminal and see what happens. It is only 12 volts (and a lot of amps). The amps would scare me off, but I am excited enough so I don't have to touch battery terminals anyway. I have always wondered what would happen it I touched the battery terminals, so if you do so, let me know what happened.

Our Airstream jack stopped working after a couple of years. I took the top cover off and found all the grease had flown off the gears. I just put the grease back and it worked fine for 8 more years until we sold the jack—pretty good deal because it came with an Airstream. Not much must have been on the gears originally since the grease was fine much longer than the way it came. I wonder whether the grease was poorly applied at Airstream or the jack manufacturer? Since they have to be adjusted to the trailer, it may have been Airstream. The gears were plastic and that always makes me nervous—I know there is some very strong plastic, but I don't know good from bad plastic and don't trust plastic. Of course, because the jack motors are not very strong and the power comes from very different sized gears to get enough power to raise the trailer. When you move it manually it takes a very long time because you will not spin the gears nearly as fast as the motor.

I sort of agree with Airpower. Usually the simplest things are the ones that break and switches are one of those things. Even simpler is a loose wire (also a broken one is possible—perhaps inside the insulation so you can"t see it). Check wires first, switch next, gears last. If it is on warranty and you don't mind manually cranking, take it back to the dealer.
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Old 11-11-2018, 05:26 PM   #30
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Gene,

You forgot the thunderstorm, barking dog, nosy neighbors and a new ranger on patrol.

Haven't been there hope to never.

Right.



Gary
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Old 11-12-2018, 08:00 AM   #31
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The toggle switch is starting to fail completely. If the jack is still covered by warranty contact Barker and they will send a new switch which can be replaced in about ten minutes. If not covered just buy one and in the interim use the hand crank. This switch has failed twice on my jack. The first time I contacted Barker and they replaced the whole head because I caught a wire with the hand crank and it pulled out.
Always remember to check if your secondary equipment like the jack is covered by warranty.
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Old 11-12-2018, 05:16 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
I changed to the Husky 5000.
Considering it's power, and having a remote, you can shop it around for about $230.
Now, you say, having a remote is silly? Just wait until you're watching the level of your countertop from INSIDE the trailer.

Installation was super easy, I bought new 3/8" x 16 grade 8 bolts and the jack came with new star washers. I crimped on a 3/8" #10 ring terminal to the included circuit breaker, did a double #10 crimp of the jack wire and I was in business.

No regrets.
...and it's silver!

Note on the installation instructions for my new Husky SB 5000 talks about should use a “lower support plate” ? I do not see a lower support plate - nor do I see how to put one on - how did you handle this?? Noticed you used a grade 8 instead of grade 5 - was this to compensate for not having a lower plate??

Thanks,

Glenn
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Old 11-12-2018, 05:18 PM   #33
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The Husky Super Brute takes 1 minute to retract the jack from down to set the bars to up in travel mode. While you are waiting, that seems a long time. Not as long as waiting for the RV repair guy. Pat
Note on the installation instructions for my new Husky SB 5000 talks about should use a “lower support plate” ? I do not see a lower support plate - nor do I see how to put one on - how did you handle this??
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Old 11-12-2018, 05:19 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
I can't prove its the best but I've had a Husky for years. I push the switch it goes UP push switch other way, it goes down. Repeat, repeat, repeat.

It's the ball screw doing its job.

Zero issues so far.
Note on the installation instructions for my new Husky SB 5000 talks about should use a “lower support plate” ? I do not see a lower support plate - nor do I see how to put one on - how did you handle this??
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Old 11-12-2018, 05:26 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by WestieHouse View Post
I switched to the Husky 5000 earlier this year and have been delighted. I agree with comments concerning ease of using remote fob inside the trailer. The three lights on the jack are much brighter making dark hookups easier.

The install was easy - took about an hour total. I sold my used Barker on eBay for $100 within three days. It worked but I had replace several slow blow fuses over the past three years and also a limit switch. The 3000 lb Barker was simply maxed out for my 23’ FC.

Another plus not yet mentioned: the Husky does not use a fuse. It had a reset switch that is much more convenient.

The silver color is a great match for Airstream.

Good luck with your decision.
Note on the installation instructions for my new Husky SB 5000 talks about should use a “lower support plate” ? I do not see a lower support plate - nor do I see how to put one on - how did you handle this??
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Old 11-13-2018, 06:33 AM   #36
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Mine was a 4500 no lower plate.

Grade 5 bolt to 8 should just consider it an upgrade.

Lower plate? Call husky and ask.
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Old 11-13-2018, 11:59 AM   #37
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The lower support plate is the tongue of the coach. The nuts are captured on that structure. I used heavy thick washers to spread the load. Used the existing bolts to install the new jack. Used new star washers on all bolts.

Note - asking a question once, usually gets an answer. Not necessary to ask the same question multiple times.

Travel safe and with a smile. Pat
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Old 11-13-2018, 12:56 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSU1981 View Post
Note on the installation instructions for my new Husky SB 5000 talks about should use a “lower support plate” ? I do not see a lower support plate - nor do I see how to put one on - how did you handle this??
I understood the instructions to mean the coupler frame have an upper (where it bolts on), and a lower, (where the post extends through) plates.
The Airstream does. Feel under the jack area and you'll find an additional plate. I take it that provides some more side bracing if the jack post was to be forced off vertical, like the trailer rolling forward or back.
Quote:
Noticed you used a grade 8 instead of grade 5 - was this to compensate for not having a lower plate??
I used grade 8 bolts because they are readily available at Lowe's. Not terribly expensive, hard as nails, and don't rust.
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Old 11-14-2018, 10:35 AM   #39
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Thanks Pat & Mollysdad!!!

Sorry for the multiple posting.

Glenn
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Old 11-27-2018, 07:52 AM   #40
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Husky Power jack 5K

Good morning gentlemen.
Just purchased the Husky to replace the jack on our 07 Safari and have a question for you that have this jack.
Did you use the reset switch Husky includes in place of fuse, and if so, where did you locate it in the battery box?
Thanks in advance! Tom
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Old 11-27-2018, 09:03 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Alumitater View Post
Good morning gentlemen.
Just purchased the Husky to replace the jack on our 07 Safari and have a question for you that have this jack.
Did you use the reset switch Husky includes in place of fuse, and if so, where did you locate it in the battery box?
Thanks in advance! Tom
Yes. I crimped a 5/16" ring terminal for 12 ga. wire (yellow) on one end going to the Battery+, and crimped a 12 ga. splice (yellow) on the other end going to the wire from the jack. It just sits in the battery box. Note: the leads are marked "Line" and "Load" as I recall.
I found the crimp terminals at my local hardware store. Big box stores don't have items like this any more.
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Old 11-27-2018, 05:22 PM   #42
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Husky jack

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
Yes. I crimped a 5/16" ring terminal for 12 ga. wire (yellow) on one end going to the Battery+, and crimped a 12 ga. splice (yellow) on the other end going to the wire from the jack. It just sits in the battery box. Note: the leads are marked "Line" and "Load" as I recall.
I found the crimp terminals at my local hardware store. Big box stores don't have items like this any more.
My favorite advice is if you gotta go through a minefield, follow somebody.
Thanks for leading. Followed your lead and got the hitch installed with no issues. I ended up doing the same with the breaker.

Husky 5000K jack works much smoother and quieter than the 3500 lb factory jack.....which strained to lift the tongue and rear of my F250 for attaching the bars of the Blue Ox hitch. Very nice improvement. Appreciate all the positive comments on the Husky in this thread.
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