Bearing Level - where to install? which one?

[P&J]

I have a 2008 25" Safari SE FB. I would like to install a level. I puchased this one at Camping World. After I got it home I saw that I would need to SCREW it into the skin of the AS. Do I want to do that? Does anyone have a different level or other suggestion? After reading all the other posts about leaks I don't want to add to my worries.

Judy

[overlander63]

Those levels are mounted to the body, usually centered under the front window.
I have used these on all our Airstreams, and recomend them:Reese Trailer Accessories
They mount on the A-frame, near the tongue jack. No holes in the body required, and they are inexpensive.

[SilverCottage]

I use a 1' magnetic level from Sears ($5) on the A-frame at the front of the trailer and it works fine. From what I have been able to tell, when the A-frame at the front is level, the entire trailer is level.

I have been removing the level when I move the trailer but it could be tied down with wire ties for a permanent solution.

[azflycaster]

I have one of those mounted just below the front window. It was installed by the PO. With a little dab of vulkem you should not have a problem with leaks. If you remove it later you can always put a few Olympic rivets in the holes.

What is nice about this level is not only will it tell you which side is off, but by how much. Last weekend at the Picacho Rally I backed into a spot and then looked at the level. It was three lines off. I moved the trailer forward, built the ramps for 3 levels (3 inches) and backed onto the ramp. The trailer was then level.

The down side to this level is that it is slow. Since it is a steel ball rolling in a liquid it does not react as quickly as an air bubble.

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by P&J

I have a 2008 25" Safari SE FB. I would like to install a level. I puchased this one at Camping World. After I got it home I saw that I would need to SCREW it into the skin of the AS. Do I want to do that? Does anyone have a different level or other suggestion? After reading all the other posts about leaks I don't want to add to my worries.

Judy

Oh the agony I have a hard enough time drilling into my 37 year old AS. The only place I have seen these, and where I have mine, is below the front window, where it can be seen from the TV. I also tried to figure how to put it on without drilling and went for the holes. There are a couple of other electonic systems out there. Don't know about mounting.

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by SilverCottage

From what I have been able to tell, when the A-frame at the front is level, the entire trailer is level.

Set up the level so that the trailer is leveled to the refridgerator. Use a bubble level inside the freezer. Then mount the outside level so that it reads level. This is fairly important with vintage units. I'm not sure if it's a big deal with newer coaches.

[pmclemore]

I'd mount it so I could see it from the driver's seat. Just seal the screws well.

Pat

[azflycaster]

With my previous TV I could see it, but the bed walls in my new TV are too high.

[pmclemore]

Yeah - good thing we travel with a second set of eyes, eh?

[markdoane]

I think its important to not overtighten the mounting screws. They need to be slightly loose so you can adjust the level as necessary, using the Crowhurst levelling method:

How to get the trailer perfectly level
This seems a good day to describe my recommended method of perfectly levelling the trailer from side to side. I first get the trailer sufficiently level for comfort and for using the refrigerator by using one or two planks under one side. Then, I go to the large bubble level fixed across the front of the trailer, and the bubble will usually be off by an inch or so. The level is mounted with two screws through vertically slotted holes. Here is the important part - the screws are not tightened right up. This enables me to adjust the level until the bubble is exactly in the centre of the level marks. It works every time, and my dear wife and fellow campers are always impressed with the accuracy of this method. Nick.
__________________
Originally posted by Nick Crowhurst

[cosmotini]

Our electric jack has a bubble level in the top of it.

To set it, use a bubble level inside the trailer and get the trailer as level as possible, then adjust the bubble level on the jack to match the one used inside.

It works pretty well.

[CanoeStream]

I'm with Denny ... I think. I have one of these:

I glued it on the top of the hitch on the A-frame right in front of the electric jack and breakaway switch. If I have to level I'm in and out of the trailer anyway. It works, it's simple, it's cheap. It's $2.49 at Camping World but I have always found it locally at farm/fleet stores, RV dealerships, etc.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, for now I just use a small carpenter's level, about one foot long, on the trailer's frame or on top of my battery box. If and when I plan to install one or two on my trailer, I will most likely use two sided tape. No rivets, no screws, and no holes.

[henw]

I just throw a level on the AS floor. Works fine. Have to walk back a couple times, or, have someone watch it as I run jack.

Tom

[thecatsandi]

return it. One came with my trailer. My dealer refused to install it. He was not going to put holes in my trailer. I use a small torpedo level on the counter top.

[jkcru]

Go to an auto paint store and get auto trim tape, holds moulding on, use it and the level will stay perfectly till you want to remove it.

[Action]

Echo that above ...... two sided tape. Available at most big box stores. When you want to remove use a hair dryer to heat up the old tape and it will come off.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[jcanavera]

My dealer uses these levels and has one mounted on every Classic trailer he sells. He mounts them under the front window but markedly towards the street side of the trailer. I can see mine from my drivers side mirror. He does this to allow you to see the level without having to get out of your vehicle. It works as long as you have ample daylight.

At the time I bought my Safari new, he wasn't providing these levels. I mounted my own, first leveling the trailer using a level on the A frame, then double checking with a bubble level inside the freezer compartment. I placed masking tape on the body marking the drill holes and drilled through the aluminum with a very small bit. The key was the masking tape and drilling very slowly to keep the bit from traveling across the aluminum prior to it getting a bite into the metal.

Jack

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by markdoane

I think its important to not overtighten the mounting screws. They need to be slightly loose so you can adjust the level as necessary, using the Crowhurst levelling method:

How to get the trailer perfectly level
This seems a good day to describe my recommended method of perfectly levelling the trailer from side to side. ...
Originally posted by Nick Crowhurst

I'm not sure if something got lost in translation but the best method is the 180 degree method. Stop in a fairly level parking lot and mark exactly where all of the tires are with chalk (on the concrete). Tweek the side to side bubble/ball indicator until the ball is in the middle. Pull the trailer forward and do a 180 degree turn, parking exactly where you were previously (thus the need for the chalk marks). If the ball is not centered move it 1/2 of the distance to the center. It will now be centered when the trailer is level. Now all you need to do is level the trailer and put a bubble inside the fridge to see if it was mounted level in the trailer...