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Old 12-23-2015, 06:39 PM   #15
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Went back to the storage lot today and ran the jack again and worked OK. I'll assume it had reached its up movement and blew the fuse.
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Old 12-23-2015, 08:38 PM   #16
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As others have stated, there are a pair of limit switches that open the circuit before the post reaches its end of travel preventing a motor overload and blown fuse. If the head had been removed for lubricating the gearbox to post coupler and the post or motor had turned before reassembly, the limit switches could be out of sync with the post position allowing the motor to run past where it should have stopped, and the steps to correct this are in the manual that is available online if you can't locate the original. A faulty limit switch could also allow the motor to run when it shouldn't. The fact that you had a problem initially manually cranking the post but seems to work now is a puzzle. While the gears and coupler need to be greased, it is my understanding that the post should not and I've heard of some who tried to pour oil into the post. If a PO had done this, it may have collected dirt and "set up" causing a temporary bind, but this is only speculation on my part.

About 5 years ago I purchased a used 2008 Airstream with the same jack as yours. We have used it a lot including a 4 month road trip last year and a 3 month road trip this year in addition to monthly club campouts since Day 1. I've serviced the jack per the book and have had no trouble with it whatsoever.
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Old 12-23-2015, 11:08 PM   #17
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I was blowing fuses and discovered the power line was pinched by my pro pride yoke. Fixed that and no more blown fuses. I have Learned though that if the post is stressed as in the trailer moving at all once it's down then binding and stripped gears become a significant problem.


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Old 12-26-2015, 09:29 AM   #18
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There is a lot of pressure on the gears. Clean lubricant can relieve some of that pressure.

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Old 01-05-2016, 11:28 AM   #19
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This is an update to my original problem. I called Barker as a couple of you suggested and they said I needed a new power head and that they'll send me one for $0.00. That is good customer service.
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Old 01-05-2016, 11:39 AM   #20
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A few months I sent mine in to get rebuilt. They sent me a new jack also free of any charges.
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Old 01-05-2016, 12:55 PM   #21
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I have the 5th Barker jacking on my 07 25'FB and right now I am waiting to have the switch replaced. You talk about headaches. That fuse cannot be purchased anywhere. I had Barker send my some spare fuse's. In 2014 the 3rd jack went out in Oregon. Had it replaced drove 150 miles to the next campground and when I went to unhook and raise the trailer the shaft of the jack shot out and jammed. I had to call for someone to come to raise the trailer so the shaft could be pulled out. Drove back the 150 miles to the rv repair to have the jack replaced. We now have the 5 jack with the bad toggle switch waiting to be repaired. Barker has been great in dealing with my issues. Everything has been replaced at no cost to me. Right now I do not trust my jack.

I was glad to see this thread. I thought I was the only one with this problem.
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Old 01-05-2016, 02:24 PM   #22
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I just bought some 30A slow-blow fuses on the internet. hope they're the right kind. 3AG 30A 32V 1/4 X 1-1/4"
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Old 01-05-2016, 03:08 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Rocket53 View Post
I just bought some 30A slow-blow fuses on the internet. hope they're the right kind. 3AG 30A 32V 1/4 X 1-1/4"
I bought some off Amazon and they did not fit. Do you have a link? I need to fix me the correct ones.
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Old 01-05-2016, 08:34 PM   #24
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NAPA has slow blow 30 amp glass fuses.
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Old 01-08-2016, 01:19 PM   #25
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Here's the link:

www.digikey.com

Part #
283-2199-ND
FUSE GLASS 30A 32VAC 3AB 3AG

They arrived yesterday and appear correct.

Mike



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Old 07-18-2016, 12:27 PM   #26
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I tried the 30A 32VAC fuses.
They blow fairly quickly.
They are widely available at auto parts places.
I wonder if I should order some of the 30A 250VAC fuses like the original fuse.
I wonder if they will last longer than the 30A 32VAC fuses I've been using.
I wonder what brand of jack my Classic has. It doesn't look like any of the Barker models.
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Old 07-18-2016, 12:39 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
I tried the 30A 32VAC fuses.
They blow fairly quickly.
They are widely available at auto parts places.
I wonder if I should order some of the 30A 250VAC fuses like the original fuse.
I wonder if they will last longer than the 30A 32VAC fuses I've been using.
I wonder what brand of jack my Classic has. It doesn't look like any of the Barker models.
Are the fuses a "slow blow" variety, per earlier posts? Your owners manual, or the instruction pamphlets for your jack included in your AS briefcase, should tell you exactly which jack you have.

Your owners manual does not state the jack brand, but does call it a "Super Jack" [PDF p. 47/146] :

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...lassic2013.pdf

Is this it?

http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...-p/vts-350.htm

No longer made? See also:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f457...ck-123310.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f457...er-139798.html
http://airstreamsupply.com/Jacks-and...w-light-511544

Also -- have you lubricated the jack per the instructions? It may be that you have an OK fuse, but it keeps blowing because the jack is not lubricated correctly, and is therefore drawing too many amps,
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Old 07-18-2016, 01:02 PM   #28
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I have figured out through the power of the interweb that the Super Jack by H & H Engineering is a division of Barker.
So, I called Barker.
They are sending me (3) 30A 250VAC slow blow glass fuses at no cost!
How awesome is that?
Woohoo!
Score!
Certainly hope this helps lots of folks out there-
If I was at home with the trailer I could have answered all questions faster, but I am at work.
I looked through photos on my phone to determine that it is a Super Jack.
Persistence pays off!
Funny as I was searching the web I came across that exact same Vintage Trailer Supply ad for the super jack used since 1977... That is the one...
The whole fuse blowing thing started when the truck 'n' trailer were stuck in the mud and I was trying to use the jack to lift the entire rig to place boards under the truck tires.
The ground was so squishy and soft that nothing I did worked. All the wood blocks and cement blocks just squished down into the soft muddy ground. That stuff is still down in the ground...
Uneven pressure on the jack caused the shaft that goes up and down to bend. Not sure if a sledge hammer will make it better or worse, but have had success with a sledgehammer on some other bent trailer jacks...
Even still, it doesn't seem to be in a bind. I thought getting the exact same 30A 250VAC rather than the Advance Auto Parts 30A 32VAC might help. We'll see...
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