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Old 02-07-2013, 06:52 PM   #1
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2012 25' Flying Cloud
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BAL stabilizer bracket bolt stripped

The single bolt attaching my front BAL stabilizer jack has stripped out of the crossbar on my 2011 Flying Cloud. What is the best way to fix this, tap a larger bolt or try to get a nut on top? Is the crossbar steel or aluminum?
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:33 PM   #2
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Crossbar is steel. Only one bolt holding the whole jack on????? There should be 5, if it is the same design as mine. I had issues with broken bolts, not stripping. You can tap bigger. I went back with stainless to prevent, or at least slow, the corrosion issue.
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:50 PM   #3
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This seemed to have been an especially prominent problem on the line back in 2005-2006 -- Stabilizer fell off. I've no doubts that driving self-threading bolts into steel channel will always require a fine touch that can be problematic from time to time.
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:41 PM   #4
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Stabilizer bolts loose or missing.

Hi, I had this same problem with my stabilizers several years ago. I drilled 1" holes [with a hole saw] in my belly pan so I could use nuts for these bolts. I covered the holes with duct tape. Never a problem since.
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:43 AM   #5
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MMMMMMMmmmmmmm. duct tape....the handyman's best friend.......
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:11 AM   #6
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I have 5 bolts, 4 on the outside rail and one on the inside to the crossbar. It is only the single inside bolt that is stripped. I am considering cutting a hole in the aluminum pan to try to get a nut on top of a new stainless steel bolt. Can anyone tell me which side of the crossbar I will have access to the top of the bolt, forward or aft?
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:16 AM   #7
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I HATE cutting holes unless it is a last resort. I drilled, tapped, used stainless and insulated the steel from the underbelly with nylon stand off washers. Very solid. I did spray the frame hole and surrounding area with boshield (or the other one...can't remember.)
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:16 PM   #8
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Well I did it and it only took 5 minutes. As you know the interior single 5/16 self tapping screw on my right front BAL stabilizer mounting bracket stripped out of the crossbar (probably during installation). This is what I did to fix the problem:

1. Put a block of wood between the loose end of the mounting bracket and the belly pan.
2. Enlarged the hole in the mounting bracket with 3/8" inch bit. Then removed the block of wood.
3. Re-drilled the crossbar hole with a 11/32" bit
4. Tapped the crossbar with a 3/8" -18 tap
5. Inserted a 3/8" x 1" stanless steel hex bolt
6. Voila!

I'll let ya'll know if this holds up.
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:55 AM   #9
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I'm out on a weekend trip at a nice COE park on Lake Texoma. As I ran down the rear street side BAL jack a bolt head dropped down. Climbed underneath and saw on of the four crossmember bolts had broken off at the head. Even the bolt at the end of the screw shaft was gone, broken off. It took the remaining 3 bolts off to remove the jack to see if enough of the bolt remained to try to unscrew them with pliers but the BAL jack was stuck on tight. I couldn't see what was holding on to the belly pan.

Does AS drill the holes then tap the thread during manufacturing?

Kelvin
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Old 06-01-2013, 12:15 PM   #10
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Also check the screw and wingnut holding on the stabilizer feet. They can come loose and fall off. I had one wingnut disappear, but I discovered it before the foot disappeared—the screw was still holding on. I got new screws, washers and wingnuts and replaced all of the OEM parts; I got a few spares just in case. They have remained tight for 3 years now. I check them for tightness every spring.

I'd better go check the bolts holding them onto the trailer.

Gene
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Old 06-02-2013, 02:11 PM   #11
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The original bolts are self-tapping so I assume they were not pre-tapped. When I replaced the bolts, I drilled a larger hole and tapped to a larger bolt. The cross member is steel and the new bolt has held tight for a few thousand miles.
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Old 06-03-2013, 03:51 PM   #12
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Not sure I have the tool muscle to drill out the bad bolts. How can such a simple system turn out so complicated. My "Silver Mistress" keeps demanding more from me.

Front curbside jack: 4 crossmember bolts and missing end bolt. Doesn't look like AS even bother.
Front street jack: 4 crossmember hosts and broken off end bolt. The end bolt is through a hole at the edge of the mounting flange instead of the center.
Rear curbside jack: 4 crossmember bolts but broken end bolt.
Rear street jack: 3 cross member bolts, one broken. Broken end bolt. Even though I took all the bolts off I couldn't drop this jack. I'll see if I can pry it off, soak the broken bolts and see if I can unscrew them with a vise grips.

Still waiting for a weekend outing that doesn't turn up a new problem. I'd like to spend a weekend washing my mistress than repairing her.

Kelvin
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:39 AM   #13
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I attempted yesterday to remove the rear street side stabilizer. I've got a broken end bolt and one broken bolt the the T frame. Once the bolts were removed the stabilizer didn't drop down. It looks like AS riveted the stabilizer from inside the belly pan during manufacturing to hold it in place or for safety. I could see two small rivets. There doesn't seem to be a need to remove the jack as the bolts that are broken seem to be sheared off flush at the belly pan. I don't think I'm going to tackle this job. The trailer is in covered storage but the its a rough gravel surface and this time of year in Texas too hot.

Kelvin
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