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Old 12-08-2012, 09:08 PM   #15
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That looks nice! Great idea!
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Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:55 PM   #16
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I bent the rear ones while out this past summer. When I got home I took them off and took them all apart to repaint them. I cleaned them all up. Straightened out the bent support arms and painted them to look like new. I had no corrosion evident and in hopes of preventing any from starting I glued thick rubber to the arms before bolting them back up. Hopefully I have caught the problem at the pass and avoided the damage.

We'll see.

I wish I had thought about the bed liner. Tough stuff.
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:56 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by polarlyse View Post
I bent the rear ones while out this past summer. When I got home I took them off and took them all apart to repaint them. I cleaned them all up. Straightened out the bent support arms and painted them to look like new. I had no corrosion evident and in hopes of preventing any from starting I glued thick rubber to the arms before bolting them back up. Hopefully I have caught the problem at the pass and avoided the damage.

We'll see.

I wish I had thought about the bed liner. Tough stuff.
That will work. Did you go back with stainless bolts?
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:06 AM   #18
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I used the original sheet metal screws that I removed. They came out easy and were in good condition so I re-used them. I'm not sure that it would matter. Would the electrolysis occur using stainless as well ????? I'll try and remove them after a few years to clean them up and take a look at that time but after 10 years the bottom was in good shape.

NOTE: Previous owner ( a friend ) has kept this trailer in underground storage since new so it's exposure to outside elements was minimal during it's life so far. I'm sure that all has contributed to it's clean exterior condition.
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:01 PM   #19
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I used the original sheet metal screws that I removed. They came out easy and were in good condition so I re-used them. I'm not sure that it would matter. Would the electrolysis occur using stainless as well ????? I'll try and remove them after a few years to clean them up and take a look at that time but after 10 years the bottom was in good shape.

NOTE: Previous owner ( a friend ) has kept this trailer in underground storage since new so it's exposure to outside elements was minimal during it's life so far. I'm sure that all has contributed to it's clean exterior condition.

I'll let the metallurgists be precise, but Stainless is closer on the corrosion scale (I forget what it is really called) and thus produce less of a galvanic reaction between the metals. Stainless does not react with aluminum nearly as quickly or as much as regular steel. I did see some evidence of corrosion starting on the belly skin after only 5 years.

I make a habit of replacing and isolating all steel to aluminum contact as much as I can, wherever I can and whenever I am working a project for other reasons.
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:59 PM   #20
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Have always kept an eye on the balstab's for corrosion, SFSG. Keep them well coated/greased.

This could be the reason?

Off the ground.

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Old 12-09-2012, 03:03 PM   #21
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Hey Bob,

I also use legos under the stabs. PO didn't and they surface rusted. I sandblasted and repainted when I did the A-frame and HAHA. The corrosion I am talking about was between the stab to AS frame mounting points. The belly skin sandwiched between the stab and the frame had galvanic corrosion where the bolts passed through.

In addition, I no longer use grease on the screws. Too much dirt attracted. I am currently using silicone spray and am happy so far.
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:08 PM   #22
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Hey Bob,

I also use legos under the stabs. PO didn't and they surface rusted. I sandblasted and repainted when I did the A-frame and HAHA. The corrosion I am talking about was between the stab to AS frame mounting points. The belly skin sandwiched between the stab and the frame had galvanic corrosion where the bolts passed through.

In addition, I no longer use grease on the screws. Too much dirt attracted. I am currently using silicone spray and am happy so far.

Ahh...got it.

I did remove them all and anti-siezed the threads when we got the trailer. I'll have to go back and check them.
Thanks...

Bob
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:16 PM   #23
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Ahh...got it.

I did remove them all and anti-siezed the threads when we got the trailer. I'll have to go back and check them.
Thanks...

Bob
When I had them off, I installed SS washers and a nylon washer to create a "stand off" so the steel jack body no longer contacts aluminum. Used SS bolts and sprayed the frame threads with CorrosionX. Probably should've used anti seize. Another cross over product from our "other life", right?
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:21 PM   #24
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........Another cross over product from our "other life", right?
Yep...my knuckles taught me that lesson years ago.

Bob
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:20 PM   #25
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I need to confer with my electrician friend to be sure but I was recently advised that at least one stabilizer foot should be in ground contact to provide a proper grounding of the trailer. I usually use a plywood pad on the ground and wood under the front jack foot also. I do avoid using grease on the stabilizer jacks and spray them with WD-40 periodically.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:40 AM   #26
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I need to confer with my electrician friend to be sure but I was recently advised that at least one stabilizer foot should be in ground contact to provide a proper grounding of the trailer.
This would be a poor way for the trailer to be electrically grounded.

A ground connection would be brought in on an AC line if it has 3 prongs. The third prong is a ground connection. In a DC connection, there would be 2 prongs one is hot and the other ground.

Grounding by means of trailer contact to earth, means electrically the alternating current has to travel through many joints and different types of metal to find the "ground" or path to earth via a stabilizer jack. This would be a poor method. If you want to do this use one metal condutor (wire) attached to a grounding spike that is driven into the ground and attached to the other end at the AC ground connection of the trailer.

>>>>>>>Action
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:35 AM   #27
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This would be a poor way for the trailer to be electrically grounded.

A ground connection would be brought in on an AC line if it has 3 prongs. The third prong is a ground connection. In a DC connection, there would be 2 prongs one is hot and the other ground.

Grounding by means of trailer contact to earth, means electrically the alternating current has to travel through many joints and different types of metal to find the "ground" or path to earth via a stabilizer jack. This would be a poor method. If you want to do this use one metal condutor (wire) attached to a grounding spike that is driven into the ground and attached to the other end at the AC ground connection of the trailer.

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That is true, unfortunately it's not 100% effective when you ASSUME that the outlet you are plugged into is wired correct.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:42 AM   #28
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In phase out of phase gounded may be .... it is like Forrest Gump when plugging in, unless you test the source.

I have a boat and visitor slips at marinas are much worse than camp grounds. And there is much more at risk. Water and electricity don't mix well.

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