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retrocar66 · 01-07-2014, 04:04 PM

I'm trying to fix a window leak in the small window by the door on my '67 TW.

The window has two glass sections: the top section, which is curved and opens with a crank, and the smaller bottom portion, which is flat and fixed (does not open.) Both sections have a cupped sill, and the leak is causing water to pool in the lower sill (of the fixed pane.)

After I replaced the window gasket (on the top section) the leak seems even worse. I cannot actually see the water coming in, but it appears to be seeping in somehow in the bottom corner of the window, the portion that does not actually open.

My next step is going to be to remove all the old caulking on the fixed pane (appears to be TremPro) and just recaulk it. But before I take that step, I wanted to ask whether anyone has another idea, and/or a trick for figuring out where exactly the water is coming through. I literally studied the window inside and out for 20 minutes in the rain, and could not find the leak point(s). There is no moisture that I can detect anywhere on the inside of the window, e.g. running down the panes or the frame - just the pool of water on the sill.

Is it possible that old TremPro or similar caulk actually "sweats" moisture?

eubank · 01-07-2014, 04:20 PM

We had lots of that kind of problem with ours, too. The seals on those lower, fixed-mount windows are evidently no longer available, and the originals had shrunk and hardened so much that they were leaking like crazy.

I finally removed the lower, fixed windows, cleaned all really well, and remounted with Vulkem. (Had to come up with a little jig to hold the glass in place for a day while the Vulkem cured enough.) That seems to have done the trick.

Lynn

DFlores · 01-07-2014, 06:34 PM

Listening closely, I have same problem

68 TWind · 01-07-2014, 07:43 PM

I replaced the lower panes on two of the windows in my 68. It had plexiglass when I bought it. I found new vinyl glass gasket that was very close to the original at my local ACE hardware. They do window pane repair in the back of the store and had several different size gaskets. One was an almost exact match for the original. I used a little Vulkem on the frame before installing the new glass and gasket. It was tricky to get it installed but it fixed the leaks. On the street side, the lower pane was ok but it did leak a little in one corner. I used just a dab of silver gutter seal in the corners and that stopped most of the leaks. l sometimes get just a little moisture on the lower sill after a big rain but it is not enough of a problem to remove the pane.

retrocar66 · 01-08-2014, 09:05 AM

Sounds exactly like my issue. A PO has tried to seal up the old window gasket in the corners with caulk, but it's kind of a sloppy job. The original gaskets are definitely shot. The glass appears to be original (with the Corning stamp) and so I'm guessing the gaskets have never been replaced.

If anyone has a link or other source for these gaskets or a similar replacement type, I'd be grateful if you'd share it. I'll post a source myself if I find one first.

ALANSD · 01-08-2014, 10:34 AM

Inland Andy posted a sealing method using silicone on the top where the window is attached to that folding metal deal. It seems to have fixed my leak problems with those same windows. The bottom leak may be coming in at the top and running down. Search for his fix.

eubank · 01-08-2014, 10:56 AM

The fix that Andy was talking about was for the upper windows that open, not the lower, fixed-mount, non-opening windows on those models. (And I used Andy's method for the upper, opening windows, and it works.)

Lynn

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALANSD

Inland Andy posted a sealing method using silicone on the top where the window is attached to that folding metal deal. It seems to have fixed my leak problems with those same windows. The bottom leak may be coming in at the top and running down. Search for his fix.

slofoks · 01-08-2014, 02:14 PM

I cant't seem to find the thread from Andy. Can you help? thx!

jamesanyc · 08-13-2014, 09:52 AM

I have the same problem in my 1967 Sovereign. Does anyone have tips on how to remove that lower window safely with breaking the glass?

eubank · 08-13-2014, 11:02 AM

Not that easy! Basically, I used a very sharp knife to cut through the old seals on the inside, releasing the window.

Since new seals are not available (last I checked), I used Vulkem to create a bed for the new window. The problem was how to hold the window in place while the Vulkem cured. I used a piece of foam-padded wood (fairly thick foam, fairly thin wood) to create a gentle push against the window, then braced against the wood piece. Some might call it a custom tool; I call it a jerry-rig.

Lynn

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamesanyc

I have the same problem in my 1967 Sovereign. Does anyone have tips on how to remove that lower window safely with breaking the glass?