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Old 01-11-2005, 11:40 AM   #15
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Thanks for all responses

I'll probably order some vulkum off the Internet in early spring. Although I hate to let these leaks go, it's probably too cold out now for proper curing. I want to go over the whole trailer, do a meticulous job, and only have to do it once.

A couple points I would like clarified:

I assume that the "banana wrap" is the curved transition piece between the walls and belly skin. If so, my trim there is in good shape, but since I have water coming in at the floor in several places, I might go ahead and seal the top of the trim to the wall skin with a bead of Parabond, which I understand will seep into that crack easily. Is this also good stuff to use where window frames meet the wall skin at sides and bottom, with vulkum sealing the top?

About that Parabond, a local parts dealer sells 5 oz. tubes for $5 and a one gallon can for almost $60. I assume that the large can is the way to go, but how do you apply it? Pour small amounts into a container and apply with a small brush?

My leaks up front could be coming from the front window frames instead of the battery boxes, but I will seal everything up there this spring. I found that leak while inspecting my converter/charger for another project. I also have the same leak as another person, where water comes in behind the curbside wheel well, when parked. It could also be my awning mount, but then again, it could be anywhere. Possibly the only other thing worse than looking for a leak in an RV is looking for a deck leak on a boat which is tied up to a dock.

So far there are only water stains on the floor and it is still solid. Probably won't replace any wood unless it gets soft or the rot appears to be spreading. I plan to put a small dehumidifier in the trailer soon and keep it running during the off-season to keep things dried out.

On another topic, sorry to hear about that one guy's Nomad which leaked and started falling apart. Skyline is supposedly one of the better builders and I would have considered buying one of their brands, like Nomad. As was mentioned before, and Airstream can leak (and it will) but the resulting damage usually won't be as bad as on a wood framed trailer.

Christopher
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Old 01-11-2005, 03:32 PM   #16
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Home depot sells Vulkem. I used some and it works on my trailer and on the house too.
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Old 01-11-2005, 04:21 PM   #17
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I had a bad experience with the acrylic clearcoat. It did seal some spots where oxidation started but after about one year it started turning an ugly grayish color. I have been trying to find something to remove it but so far no luck. There may be some clearcoat that will not turn color but don't try it unless you are sure.
Wayne
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Old 01-12-2005, 01:59 AM   #18
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1984 31' Excella
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blickcd
A couple points I would like clarified:

I assume that the "banana wrap" is the curved transition piece between the walls and belly skin. If so, my trim there is in good shape, but since I have water coming in at the floor in several places, I might go ahead and seal the top of the trim to the wall skin with a bead of Parabond, which I understand will seep into that crack easily. Is this also good stuff to use where window frames meet the wall skin at sides and bottom, with vulkum sealing the top?

About that Parabond, a local parts dealer sells 5 oz. tubes for $5 and a one gallon can for almost $60. I assume that the large can is the way to go, but how do you apply it? Pour small amounts into a container and apply with a small brush?


Christopher
Christopher- Parrbond is great stuff. If you buy it by the can, use a syringe to apply it. Probably can obtain at a medical supply for disposable and a Veterinarian supply for reuseable.....I just buy mine in the tube, so if it dried out, I am only out $5. My 31 ft only ises 3-4 tubes a year.

Use Parrbond in small cracks of 1/8 inch or less, Vulkem on larger seams.
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Old 01-12-2005, 04:40 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by dscluchfc
...My 31 ft only uses 3-4 tubes a year...
I have just completed my first year of ownership, and am attempting to scope out yearly maintenance.

Using 3-4 tubes of Parbond per year sounds like you must be resealing every single seam on your Airstream. Do you do this because it is necessary to prevent leaks, or because you think it is a good idea?

How much Vulkem do you use in your maintenance schedule?

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 01-12-2005, 09:57 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
I have just completed my first year of ownership, and am attempting to scope out yearly maintenance.

Using 3-4 tubes of Parbond per year sounds like you must be resealing every single seam on your Airstream. Do you do this because it is necessary to prevent leaks, or because you think it is a good idea?

How much Vulkem do you use in your maintenance schedule?

Thanks,
Tom
Tom, thanks for asking.
My Airstream is not under cover, but in the hot Texas sun. That cooks the Parrbond and it cracks losing the smooth appearance.
I have been redoing the Parrbond mostly for appearance sake. When it is picked out of the cracks with the edge of a little screwdriver, it is still plyable and flexible down in the crack. So I guess it is sort of like resurfacing a road before the crack is all the way down to the base.
The larger beads of Vulkem hold up much better.
I originally bought two tubes of Vulkem from Airstream Dreams almost 3 years ago now when I bought the trailer. I have used almost a tube thusfar.
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Old 01-25-2005, 04:57 AM   #21
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Sealant

Hi Christopher,
ALCOA Aluminum Sealant....it comes in a tube...is "HAZ-MAT", so no one will ship it to you unless you buy a CASE of it. Even, then, they'd have to have a Haz-Mat licence to ship it. No one will touch it otherwise. If a dealer has it, you'll have to drive there to pick it up. I drove 160 miles round trip to buy mine---needless-to-say, I bought 4 tubes of it.
It is NOT the same as Vulchem. Vulchem works great indoors...but for a "wicking" sealant that fills the cracks, but disappears so you don't see a build-up where you don't want to (extra bulk)...this stuff is FANTABULOUS!!! Cost about $8. a 6 oz tube.. $1 an ounce...NOT bad... picking out the old brittle stuff is the hardest part of applying it. (maybe!...it's not easy to keep the 'steady-hand' to apply it either (read below)..)
I went to a dental office and found a dental-tech that had stainless steel 'picks' left over they didn't want; (they can't use them anymore---bcz they must use disposible ones for health department regulations)....IF they still have one or two laying around, they might GIVE them to you like they did me. Great tool for picking! Once the crack is empty of previous caulking...then you squeeze the liquid aluminum out of the tube SLOWLY and run the tube BACKWARDS with a very STEADY HAND...to allow it to 'run down into the crack'...you will continue to allow it to fill the cracks on the sides of windows/doors, etc. but you won't need to do it to the UNDER SIDE of them because the liquid aluminum won't 'run' UP. (of course!) ...that is where you'd want to use the Vulchem for a moisture/cold air barrier, bcz you can apply it with a gloved finger and push it UP into the crevace.

If you can't find this stuff... PM me...or email me....I'll dig it out (the tube) and get you the contact information. It's NOT WORTH SUBSTITUTING this stuff ... This is the REAL mcCOY...
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