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10-04-2011, 05:21 AM
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#21
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3 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Albuquerque
, New Mexico
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 168
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Vulem, Parbond, and Silicone?
Andy thanks for the clarification on Vulkem and Parbond.
Just for additional information: Do you (or anyone else) know if in fact Silicone "eats" aluminum? I read this in another thread.
My concern is I may have used some to seal a roof vent.
I capped the front vent, where the PO had installed a swamp cooler, and I didn't have a replacement vent. I just cut out an aluminum cap, sealed and riveted it to the aluminum extrusion where the old vent cap would seat. (I don't remember if it was silicone or latex tub&tile caulk.) It'll never see UV because it's sealing between the aluminum pieces. It's permanent for the forseeable future.
Will this cause deterioration in the aluminum on the roof?
Do I need to pull the patch and re-do it, or will it wait a year or two?
Thanks in advance!
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10-04-2011, 08:29 AM
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#22
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edglenn
Andy thanks for the clarification on Vulkem and Parbond.
Just for additional information: Do you (or anyone else) know if in fact Silicone "eats" aluminum? I read this in another thread.
My concern is I may have used some to seal a roof vent.
I capped the front vent, where the PO had installed a swamp cooler, and I didn't have a replacement vent. I just cut out an aluminum cap, sealed and riveted it to the aluminum extrusion where the old vent cap would seat. (I don't remember if it was silicone or latex tub&tile caulk.) It'll never see UV because it's sealing between the aluminum pieces. It's permanent for the forseeable future.
Will this cause deterioration in the aluminum on the roof?
Do I need to pull the patch and re-do it, or will it wait a year or two?
Thanks in advance!
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There are different silicone sealers.
Some eat aluminum, some do not.
However, the sun attacks all of them.
When that happens, the silicone pulls away from the surface.
NOW, the fun begins, because the silicone sealer also created a chemical barrier, that won't allow the good sealers to work properly.
You MUST remove ALL traces of the silicone, so that the correct sealers, such as Vulkem, Sikoflex and Parbond, can bond to the paint or better yet, the aluminum.
All silicones are "OUT" as far as the exterior of an Airstream or Argosy is concerned.
Andy
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10-11-2011, 09:28 PM
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#23
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1 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
1955 22' Safari
Califon
, New Jersey
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 11
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Leak under Plumbing Vent?
I see some water damage on wood paneling in the bedroom area of 66' Overlander. Is there a gasket under the vent pipe cover? The past owner had some sort of netting attached to it. Should I just try to reseal it first with calk?
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11-04-2011, 10:50 AM
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#24
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3 Rivet Member
2017 30' Classic
2017 30' Classic
Summerville
, South Carolina
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 188
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Some replies recommend Vulkem, parabond, and sakiflex, but no one indicates the product number and the type of the product( ie:rubber, silicone,etc.) Each of those companies make several products. Could someone clarify?
I was at the JC service center recently and they use Adseal grey for windows and doors, Adseal white for roof penetrations and Acryl R for seams.
Thanks,
Hank
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11-04-2011, 11:11 AM
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#25
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4 Rivet Member
1992 29' Excella
Asheville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 306
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Hank, and others
Thanks for your question. I too am looking for specific product names to be sure I am getting the correct one. Also can someone share (Andy?) how is the best way to remove the old Vulkem? Do you just use a putty knife or do you need to use some sort of solvent? I am needing to do a lot of sealing so when the new floor is complete, I will know that there will be no new water dropping on it. I too am having to replace the vent seals. They are currently covered with aluminum foil tape until the replacement parts arrive. Nothing like a good band-aid.
__________________
Jonathan Hettrick
'92 Excella 29'
'20 Ram 2500
AIR # 59179
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11-04-2011, 11:35 AM
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#26
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chillpoints
Hank, and others
Thanks for your question. I too am looking for specific product names to be sure I am getting the correct one. Also can someone share (Andy?) how is the best way to remove the old Vulkem? Do you just use a putty knife or do you need to use some sort of solvent? I am needing to do a lot of sealing so when the new floor is complete, I will know that there will be no new water dropping on it. I too am having to replace the vent seals. They are currently covered with aluminum foil tape until the replacement parts arrive. Nothing like a good band-aid.
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I am not aware of any solvent that will remove Vulkem, that wouldn't also remove plasticoat.
Use a knife or putty knife to acarp off and/or cut off the old Vulkem.
But, why do you want to remove older Vulkem, since it has a many decades of life.
You can, clean it with a mild solvent, and then add a little more to it.
A better version would be to use Sikoflex.
Andy.
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11-04-2011, 12:31 PM
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#27
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chillpoints
Hank, and others
Thanks for your question. I too am looking for specific product names to be sure I am getting the correct one. Also can someone share (Andy?) how is the best way to remove the old Vulkem? Do you just use a putty knife or do you need to use some sort of solvent? I am needing to do a lot of sealing so when the new floor is complete, I will know that there will be no new water dropping on it. I too am having to replace the vent seals. They are currently covered with aluminum foil tape until the replacement parts arrive. Nothing like a good band-aid.
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Plastic scrapper and mineral spirits what I used for cleaning, plenty of rags and protective gloves.
Used Loctite PL (polyurethane) for the black tank vent. Lower belt molding.
Sikaflex 221 for the Skylight, top of rear window.
Acryl R for the closed seams, front pano windows and rivet seams.
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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11-08-2011, 10:02 AM
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#28
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4 Rivet Member
1992 29' Excella
Asheville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
I am not aware of any solvent that will remove Vulkem, that wouldn't also remove plasticoat.
Use a knife or putty knife to acarp off and/or cut off the old Vulkem.
But, why do you want to remove older Vulkem, since it has a many decades of life.
You can, clean it with a mild solvent, and then add a little more to it.
A better version would be to use Sikoflex.
Andy.
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Thanks Andy
I am in the process of replacing the rotten floor in the back of my '92 Excella 29' rear twin and was thinking that I should do a general replacement of all the vulkem. Would you suggest leaving this in place and simply adding a new layer to it? Can it be as simple as applying some Sikoflex over what is there?
Here is what I am looking at.
Thanks also to Robert.
I love hearing differing/similar opinions.
__________________
Jonathan Hettrick
'92 Excella 29'
'20 Ram 2500
AIR # 59179
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11-08-2011, 10:17 AM
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#29
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chillpoints
Thanks Andy
Would you suggest leaving this in place and simply adding a new layer to it? Can it be as simple as applying some Sikoflex over what is there?
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Yes and yes.
Andy
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11-08-2011, 10:43 AM
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#30
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Currently Looking...
Jupiter
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,062
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A heat gun and a plastic, wood or other non-scratching scraper is the best way to get the bulk of the old Vulkem caulk off - then its naptha or mineral spirits to dissolve the remainders & terry cloth abrasion if 100% of it needs to go!
__________________
The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
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