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Old 05-15-2011, 11:39 AM   #15
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Andy, How about seals for the exterior access doors on My '77 Silver Streak "Refurbish"??
Is there a particular type of seal I should use--there is little or non-existent seals on them currently.

Thanks,
Christopher
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Old 05-15-2011, 12:32 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by chowman2011 View Post
Andy, How about seals for the exterior access doors on My '77 Silver Streak "Refurbish"??
Is there a particular type of seal I should use--there is little or non-existent seals on them currently.

Thanks,
Christopher
Do you mean a sealer or gasket?

If it's a gasket, please post a photo of what you may have left of it.

Andy
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Old 05-15-2011, 06:55 PM   #17
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Do you mean a sealer or gasket?

If it's a gasket, please post a photo of what you may have left of it.

Andy
I suppose it would actually be a 'gasket'...same as a seal to me...

This is representative of the access doors(fridge area, converter, storage etc)....

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Looks like it may have just been an 1/8" foam adhevise strip prior??

Your Input is Appreiated!!!

Thanks,
Christopher
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:08 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by chowman2011 View Post
I suppose it would actually be a 'gasket'...same as a seal to me...

This is representative of the access doors(fridge area, converter, storage etc)....

Looks like it may have just been an 1/8" foam adhevise strip prior??

Your Input is Appreiated!!!

Thanks,
Christopher
Chris.

Foam gasket is open cell and leaks like a sponge.

It appears that your windows are similiar to Airstreams, therefore you can use the "D" type gasket which is very easy to install.

Andy
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Old 08-11-2011, 10:32 AM   #19
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Thanks for your knowledge
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:16 AM   #20
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Helpful thread for me - got problems in the AS that need to be addressed - on the learning curve right now - picking up some sealing stuff.
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Old 10-04-2011, 06:21 AM   #21
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Vulem, Parbond, and Silicone?

Andy thanks for the clarification on Vulkem and Parbond.
Just for additional information: Do you (or anyone else) know if in fact Silicone "eats" aluminum? I read this in another thread.
My concern is I may have used some to seal a roof vent.
I capped the front vent, where the PO had installed a swamp cooler, and I didn't have a replacement vent. I just cut out an aluminum cap, sealed and riveted it to the aluminum extrusion where the old vent cap would seat. (I don't remember if it was silicone or latex tub&tile caulk.) It'll never see UV because it's sealing between the aluminum pieces. It's permanent for the forseeable future.
Will this cause deterioration in the aluminum on the roof?
Do I need to pull the patch and re-do it, or will it wait a year or two?
Thanks in advance!
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:29 AM   #22
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Andy thanks for the clarification on Vulkem and Parbond.
Just for additional information: Do you (or anyone else) know if in fact Silicone "eats" aluminum? I read this in another thread.
My concern is I may have used some to seal a roof vent.
I capped the front vent, where the PO had installed a swamp cooler, and I didn't have a replacement vent. I just cut out an aluminum cap, sealed and riveted it to the aluminum extrusion where the old vent cap would seat. (I don't remember if it was silicone or latex tub&tile caulk.) It'll never see UV because it's sealing between the aluminum pieces. It's permanent for the forseeable future.
Will this cause deterioration in the aluminum on the roof?
Do I need to pull the patch and re-do it, or will it wait a year or two?
Thanks in advance!
There are different silicone sealers.

Some eat aluminum, some do not.

However, the sun attacks all of them.

When that happens, the silicone pulls away from the surface.

NOW, the fun begins, because the silicone sealer also created a chemical barrier, that won't allow the good sealers to work properly.

You MUST remove ALL traces of the silicone, so that the correct sealers, such as Vulkem, Sikoflex and Parbond, can bond to the paint or better yet, the aluminum.

All silicones are "OUT" as far as the exterior of an Airstream or Argosy is concerned.

Andy
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Old 10-11-2011, 10:28 PM   #23
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Leak under Plumbing Vent?

I see some water damage on wood paneling in the bedroom area of 66' Overlander. Is there a gasket under the vent pipe cover? The past owner had some sort of netting attached to it. Should I just try to reseal it first with calk?
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:50 AM   #24
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Some replies recommend Vulkem, parabond, and sakiflex, but no one indicates the product number and the type of the product( ie:rubber, silicone,etc.) Each of those companies make several products. Could someone clarify?

I was at the JC service center recently and they use Adseal grey for windows and doors, Adseal white for roof penetrations and Acryl R for seams.

Thanks,
Hank
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:11 PM   #25
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Hank, and others
Thanks for your question. I too am looking for specific product names to be sure I am getting the correct one. Also can someone share (Andy?) how is the best way to remove the old Vulkem? Do you just use a putty knife or do you need to use some sort of solvent? I am needing to do a lot of sealing so when the new floor is complete, I will know that there will be no new water dropping on it. I too am having to replace the vent seals. They are currently covered with aluminum foil tape until the replacement parts arrive. Nothing like a good band-aid.
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:35 PM   #26
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Hank, and others
Thanks for your question. I too am looking for specific product names to be sure I am getting the correct one. Also can someone share (Andy?) how is the best way to remove the old Vulkem? Do you just use a putty knife or do you need to use some sort of solvent? I am needing to do a lot of sealing so when the new floor is complete, I will know that there will be no new water dropping on it. I too am having to replace the vent seals. They are currently covered with aluminum foil tape until the replacement parts arrive. Nothing like a good band-aid.
I am not aware of any solvent that will remove Vulkem, that wouldn't also remove plasticoat.

Use a knife or putty knife to acarp off and/or cut off the old Vulkem.

But, why do you want to remove older Vulkem, since it has a many decades of life.

You can, clean it with a mild solvent, and then add a little more to it.

A better version would be to use Sikoflex.

Andy.
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Old 11-04-2011, 01:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chillpoints View Post
Hank, and others
Thanks for your question. I too am looking for specific product names to be sure I am getting the correct one. Also can someone share (Andy?) how is the best way to remove the old Vulkem? Do you just use a putty knife or do you need to use some sort of solvent? I am needing to do a lot of sealing so when the new floor is complete, I will know that there will be no new water dropping on it. I too am having to replace the vent seals. They are currently covered with aluminum foil tape until the replacement parts arrive. Nothing like a good band-aid.
Plastic scrapper and mineral spirits what I used for cleaning, plenty of rags and protective gloves.

Used Loctite PL (polyurethane) for the black tank vent. Lower belt molding.

Sikaflex 221 for the Skylight, top of rear window.

Acryl R for the closed seams, front pano windows and rivet seams.

Bob
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Old 11-08-2011, 11:02 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
I am not aware of any solvent that will remove Vulkem, that wouldn't also remove plasticoat.

Use a knife or putty knife to acarp off and/or cut off the old Vulkem.

But, why do you want to remove older Vulkem, since it has a many decades of life.

You can, clean it with a mild solvent, and then add a little more to it.

A better version would be to use Sikoflex.

Andy.
Thanks Andy
I am in the process of replacing the rotten floor in the back of my '92 Excella 29' rear twin and was thinking that I should do a general replacement of all the vulkem. Would you suggest leaving this in place and simply adding a new layer to it? Can it be as simple as applying some Sikoflex over what is there?


Here is what I am looking at.

Thanks also to Robert.

I love hearing differing/similar opinions.
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