|
|
08-29-2015, 09:03 PM
|
#21
|
Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
El Paso
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 945
|
What exactly is your direct question?
You're kinda shooting yourself in the foot asking a question and then when you get an anwser from a Pro disagreeing with him.
You seem to be really knowledgable on these things,why not just use your Olympics and be done with it?
Go enjoy your trailer with all the ripples and leaking things on it.
|
|
|
08-29-2015, 09:28 PM
|
#22
|
Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Mission
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 836
|
What to Sandwich Between 2 Sheets of Aluminum Before Riveting
Such an unusual family ...
One pro says Olympics leak, another pro says all rivets leak when improperly installed, however Olympics never leak when properly installed. Reading the forum threads the consensus is slathering the inside no matter what prevents leaks, which comes back around to the questions above and why I asked them.
Wow ...
Currently our AS isn't leaking thanks, hope the same for you,
|
|
|
08-30-2015, 04:05 PM
|
#23
|
2 Rivet Member
Fayetteville
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 20
|
Let me try and bring this back on topic. Before I do let me add this being a noob on restoring an RV. I thought I would use the Olympic rivets because that is what I saw on the forums. Originally I was thinking of using closed rivets. I have access to both sides of the rivets, but don't feel comfortable attempting to buck rivet. It would be my wife and I and having no experience it is something I want to stay away from.
Over the past 24 hours I've come up with a few options.
1. Use butyl tape in all of the areas I can get easy access too. That would be mainly on the top and partially down the sides. Areas where I can't get easy access to for butyl tape, I would use the rubber that goes inside a bicycle rim to protect the tube. I would then rivet this down using Olympic rivets using the current set of holes. Once that is done I would liberally apply sealant along the inside seam and rivet bottoms. -- My concern is being able to align all of the holes since the butyl tape will not allow me to see through.
2. My second option is to use the butyl tape and rubber as before but use standard closed pop rivets. Once they are attached I would liberally apply sealant on top of the rivets and along the outside seam and then I would attach a band of aluminum from one side of the trailer over the rivets, seams and sealant to the other side. This I would rivet using Olympic head rivets. In effect the original rivets and seam would be covered by this band of aluminum creating a waterproof seal along the original seam. The only holes would be for the new rivets.
Again, I have never restored an RV so please let me know what your thoughts are and add any suggestions you might have.
Here are pics of the RV
|
|
|
08-30-2015, 04:54 PM
|
#24
|
Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
North Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,421
|
Post #8 has your answer.
__________________
Cameron & the Labradors, Kai & Samm
North Vancouver, BC
Live! Life's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death! - Mame Dennis
|
|
|
08-30-2015, 05:03 PM
|
#25
|
2 Rivet Member
Fayetteville
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 20
|
So the use of the sealant between the sheets and rivets securing the sheets will provide a water tight seal?
|
|
|
08-30-2015, 07:01 PM
|
#26
|
2 Rivet Member
Fayetteville
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 20
|
After searching online, I can't find any suppliers of Trempro 626/636. The only thing I can find is Vulkem 116. I looked at the following post(
[A/S] Final word on Vulkem choices) and it seems like it will work. What is the cure time in comparison to 626/636? I want something that is long so I have time to fix any screwups.
|
|
|
08-31-2015, 05:35 AM
|
#27
|
Always learning
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,881
|
Vulkem 116 has the longest "skin time" available. Use that.
Installing solid rivets is pretty easy. If you have access to both sides of the rivet, that is what you should be using. Get the tools, practice on some scrap sheets and go to work.
Vintage Trailer Supply sells kits with everything you need.
Have fun!
__________________
Lance
Work is never done, so take time to play!
|
|
|
08-31-2015, 05:38 AM
|
#28
|
Always learning
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,881
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whalensdad
So the use of the sealant between the sheets and rivets securing the sheets will provide a water tight seal?
|
If you do it right, yes.
__________________
Lance
Work is never done, so take time to play!
|
|
|
08-31-2015, 10:04 AM
|
#29
|
The Sign Lady
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria
, British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 677
|
Whoa... no disrespect to the fellow that made the VAP video, but I think he was just showing what and how they work, not the how to actually use them in practice.
A previous repair to my trailer was done using Olympics with no sealant with the rivets and I can assure you that is a disaster. I don't know how many years ago the repair had been done but I do know that butyl was used around the windows and it had hardened and shrunk allowing water to course through and then along the overlaps of the side panel they had used some sort of foam tape and the foam had degraded allowing water through. I ended up pulling the whole side off the trailer and reseating everything.
I used Sitkaflex 221 grey. It works awesome but the Trempro Frank mentioned would be great if you can find some. Here is my video on how to use Olympics properly.
If you have clear access to both side of the material buck rivets are the way to go they seem more stable and are way cheaper.
Also do a search on the forums for the show me you patches thread and have fun with it.... who needs a boring square patch :-)
https://youtu.be/lYmQsn6DlE4
But most importantly have fun and enjoy your trailer :-)
|
|
|
08-31-2015, 10:17 AM
|
#30
|
2 Rivet Member
Fayetteville
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 20
|
I actually saw your video which led me down the path to the Olympic rivets.
Even though I should be using buck rivets, I'm concerned about training my helper to do it correctly.
I have not found the TremPro so I'm going with Vulkem 116. It will give me a long cure time to work out any issues I have.
|
|
|
08-31-2015, 11:49 AM
|
#31
|
The Sign Lady
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria
, British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 677
|
Get some scrap to practice with...I spent a fortune on Olympics especially with being in Canada, the extra shipping, duty and taxes to get them across the border killed me financially. I wish I had bought the bucks sooner. If you're planning on owing the trailer a long time or having multiples like me if you can afford it, it's nice to have both kits.
Oh and buy more rivets than you think you'll need... Lots more...
But far and away the best purchase I have ever made for my airstream collection is this baby... Rivet Removal Tool
You wouldn't worry so much about mistakes once you have this easy way of getting bad rivets out :-)
|
|
|
09-21-2016, 03:43 AM
|
#32
|
2 Rivet Member
Goliad
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 55
|
It is the acetate in the Silicone
Quote:
Originally Posted by avionstream
Unless it is the special one made for aluminum if that even exists, I think silicon reacts with the aluminum and eats it away after a period if time. Correct?
|
As long as the Silicone does not contain any acetates then it is perfectly fine to use on Aluminum.
In fact I am redoing a '65 Overlander and it appears AS knew this to because in the front section they used silicone along the windows and front seams. I learned about the acetates from my years in electrical business.
__________________
The Frommes
Goliad, Texas
The Birth Place of S. Texas Ranching
WBCCI #6256
|
|
|
01-13-2017, 03:13 PM
|
#33
|
1 Rivet Member
1977 29' Ambassador
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 7
|
rivets?
I have buck and Olympic rivets and none of them leak on my 1977 ambassador I am doing a total restoration , I took down the interior skin none of the seams leak because they have a rubberized white sealant caulking on the interior and its on there pretty thick. Not even my old windows leak, but they need new seals.
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|