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Old 08-29-2015, 04:13 PM   #15
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Were the bucked rivet joints slathered on the inside with Vulkem?
Were the Olympic repairs also slathered in Vulkem (TremPro)?
When I replaced a wing window the bucked rivet joints inside were slatered with Vulkem. So reassembly was also slathered this time with TremPro. Leak check and many rainstorms after no signs of leakage. Who knows what it will look like another 40 years from now.
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Old 08-29-2015, 04:54 PM   #16
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I am going to step away from this conversation now. I think it will be better for everyone involved. You have it all figured out.
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Old 08-29-2015, 06:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank's Trailer Works View Post
I am going to step away from this conversation now.

I appreciate your observations, just hoping to glean more detail from your experience.
Olympics would be easy to put on for any repair job, slathering the inside with TremPro would require removing the inner skin - something less likely to happen.
So that is why I asked if the Olympics as well as the originals had been slathered on the inside.
If the Olympics had no TremPro and the originals did, there is no conclusive evidence that Olympics leak and bucked rivets don't.
If you had both styles of rivets with no Vulkem or TremPro and only Olympics showed signs of leakage, that would be noteworthy (for me anyway - but maybe I'm nuts).
Hope that makes sense.
Best wishes.
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:38 PM   #18
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Olympic rivets leak. They leak less when you dip them in sealant before you install them, but they still leak. That's a pretty well established observation from the people with experience. If you have access to both sides of the rivet and you use a blind rivet on the exterior skin, you aren't doing it the best way you could.
When Airstream builds trailers they don't, and never have, used blind rivets of any kind on the exterior skin.
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Old 08-29-2015, 08:03 PM   #19
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I guess some people just have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.

When a person that has replaced hundreds of panels and segments, and thousands of rivets, tells you "don't do this", they are trying to keep you from having the same issues they have experienced. Ignore their advice at your expense.
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Old 08-29-2015, 08:21 PM   #20
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What to Sandwich Between 2 Sheets of Aluminum Before Riveting

Wow ...
Answering direct questions must be really difficult.
So how do you account for all of the loose bucked rivets on the outside of my AS - you've probably seen similar, heads cockeyed, water signs inside?
Also, if removing the Olympics, what size buck rivet to use since the Olympics are larger in diameter than the buck rivets?
Maybe ALL rivets leak.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...ets-85624.html
(post #4)
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Old 08-29-2015, 09:03 PM   #21
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What exactly is your direct question?
You're kinda shooting yourself in the foot asking a question and then when you get an anwser from a Pro disagreeing with him.
You seem to be really knowledgable on these things,why not just use your Olympics and be done with it?
Go enjoy your trailer with all the ripples and leaking things on it.
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Old 08-29-2015, 09:28 PM   #22
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What to Sandwich Between 2 Sheets of Aluminum Before Riveting

Such an unusual family ...
One pro says Olympics leak, another pro says all rivets leak when improperly installed, however Olympics never leak when properly installed. Reading the forum threads the consensus is slathering the inside no matter what prevents leaks, which comes back around to the questions above and why I asked them.
Wow ...
Currently our AS isn't leaking thanks, hope the same for you,
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Old 08-30-2015, 04:05 PM   #23
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Let me try and bring this back on topic. Before I do let me add this being a noob on restoring an RV. I thought I would use the Olympic rivets because that is what I saw on the forums. Originally I was thinking of using closed rivets. I have access to both sides of the rivets, but don't feel comfortable attempting to buck rivet. It would be my wife and I and having no experience it is something I want to stay away from.

Over the past 24 hours I've come up with a few options.

1. Use butyl tape in all of the areas I can get easy access too. That would be mainly on the top and partially down the sides. Areas where I can't get easy access to for butyl tape, I would use the rubber that goes inside a bicycle rim to protect the tube. I would then rivet this down using Olympic rivets using the current set of holes. Once that is done I would liberally apply sealant along the inside seam and rivet bottoms. -- My concern is being able to align all of the holes since the butyl tape will not allow me to see through.

2. My second option is to use the butyl tape and rubber as before but use standard closed pop rivets. Once they are attached I would liberally apply sealant on top of the rivets and along the outside seam and then I would attach a band of aluminum from one side of the trailer over the rivets, seams and sealant to the other side. This I would rivet using Olympic head rivets. In effect the original rivets and seam would be covered by this band of aluminum creating a waterproof seal along the original seam. The only holes would be for the new rivets.

Again, I have never restored an RV so please let me know what your thoughts are and add any suggestions you might have.

Here are pics of the RV












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Old 08-30-2015, 04:54 PM   #24
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Post #8 has your answer.
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Old 08-30-2015, 05:03 PM   #25
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So the use of the sealant between the sheets and rivets securing the sheets will provide a water tight seal?
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:01 PM   #26
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After searching online, I can't find any suppliers of Trempro 626/636. The only thing I can find is Vulkem 116. I looked at the following post(
[A/S] Final word on Vulkem choices) and it seems like it will work. What is the cure time in comparison to 626/636? I want something that is long so I have time to fix any screwups.
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Old 08-31-2015, 05:35 AM   #27
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Vulkem 116 has the longest "skin time" available. Use that.

Installing solid rivets is pretty easy. If you have access to both sides of the rivet, that is what you should be using. Get the tools, practice on some scrap sheets and go to work.

Vintage Trailer Supply sells kits with everything you need.

Have fun!
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Old 08-31-2015, 05:38 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whalensdad View Post
So the use of the sealant between the sheets and rivets securing the sheets will provide a water tight seal?
If you do it right, yes.
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