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Old 11-24-2004, 01:22 PM   #1
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Weatherstrip replacement

I've just replaced all of the window weatherstrip in my '74 Argosy MH - fuzzy schlegle channel (who the heck was Fuzzy Schlegle anyway?), vertical lip seal, and trim seal. (Aside: I found a really neat way to replace the vertical lip seal.)

All was looking well until we had a deluge last night. This morning I find water has somehow intruded - it appears that maybe the outer fuzzy channel overflowed and the water came in that way. I can't see any other mechanism that could let water into the interior. There's much less leakage than before I renewed everything, but any amount is too much.

My question - do I need to punch holes in the fuzzy channel to allow water to drain through and get to the weep holes below? (There is empty space, by the way, below the fuzzy channel; as installed, the channel sits above the weep holes.)

One background note: I did verify that the water was coming in through the window weatherstrip. I taped plastic over each window below the eyebrow for a couple of weeks, and the leakage disappeared completely.

Bob
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Old 11-24-2004, 01:32 PM   #2
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Bob,
I have not replaced mine (yet) but remember reading on another post that you need to puch holes in the bottom channel or it will overflow and leak.

I'm ordering the replacement stuff after TDay so please post your trick for the vertical lip seal.
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Old 11-24-2004, 02:16 PM   #3
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I cut slots with a die grinder and cut off wheel. Did this on installation so have nothing to compare to but know they drain well once cut.

John
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Old 11-24-2004, 02:45 PM   #4
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Motorhome window leaks.

Simply because of the material, the fuzzy channel (schlegal) used in the Argosy and Airstream motorhomes does leak.

Actually, it's not a leak, but the fuzzy material does allow water to pass by it.

All Argosy and Airstream motorhomes, therefore, at the bottom of all the side windows you will find a small plastic part called a "weep hole" cover.

After the schlegal channel is installed, a slot must be cut into it at each weep hole cover.

The covers should be removed prior to the installation of the schlegal. After completion of the installation, cut a horizontal slot into the schlegal using a drill bit or a small tapered router bit. Then you can reinstall the weep hole covers, and never (normally) have a leak again.

If the slots are not cut, the water will gather in the schlegal channel, and simply overflow.

Andy
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Old 12-09-2004, 03:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcneon
I've just replaced all of the window weatherstrip in my '74 Argosy MH - fuzzy schlegle channel (who the heck was Fuzzy Schlegle anyway?), vertical lip seal, and trim seal.
Bob

As reference for me and future searchers...Could someone please post some photographs of these parts to help define what's being talked about?

Thanks,
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Old 12-09-2004, 04:52 PM   #6
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sfixx.

Those parts are used in Motorhomes, only.

Andy
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Old 12-09-2004, 09:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Those parts are used in Motorhomes, only
...and you can see pictures of them on the Inland RV site!

Bob
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Old 12-10-2004, 08:51 AM   #8
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Hey McNeon how about details on the vertical lip replacement your way? I did the swindow channel thing using a flocked rubber insert instead of the fuzzy schlegle it went very smoothly.
Fuzzy Schlegle owns a bar here in Atlanta...popular place for musicians to hang.
Kinky Friedman used to play there.
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Old 12-10-2004, 09:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD
Hey McNeon how about details on the vertical lip replacement your way?
If it ever stops raining I'll take a picture and post it.

By the way, I took a good look today at the sliders on a friend's '79 moho, and the frames are quite different from those on my '74. On mine, the slots that hold the fuzzy channel are about twice as deep as the channel; there are ribs about halfway down that hold the channel in place. On the '79, the slots are the same depth as the fuzzy channel.

The drain holes in my windows are also much smaller than those in the '79 and have no caps. They're also cut into the bottom half of the channel slot, below the fuzzy channel. Interesting to see how many detail differences there can be from year to year.

Bob
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Old 12-11-2004, 06:51 AM   #10
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The drain slots are above the bottom of the extrusion so water lays in them constantly during the rainy season. All kinds of crap grows in there that will block the drains. I blow them out a couple of times a year, what comes out isn't pretty.

John
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Old 12-13-2004, 10:03 AM   #11
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Vertical lip seal replacement - my way

The first picture is of the end of the vertical lip seal extrusion. Note the T-shaped part that will slide into the aluminum window center bar.

1. Trim away all you can of the existing vertical lip seal with a utility knife. Cut it down to the center bar - any that sticks out will do nothing but make the job harder*.

2. Using a Dremel tool with a 1/8" or less burr, cut a slot into the rear of the center bar per the second picture. This slot is the width of the T-shaped part of the lip seal. I cut mine about 1/2" up from the lower frame and about 5/8-3/4" long. It's important to cut the slot to the full width of the T-shaped part, or the new seal will be very hard to install. You also need to deburr the inner edges of the slot as well as you can to keep from mutilating the new seal. Use a jeweler's file for this.

3. Using a couple of dental picks, remove the remaining part of the old seal. If your seals are old enough, they will have shrunk but will be quite brittle. With persistence, they will come out the newly cut slot. A little application of heat with hot water or a heat gun might help here, too.

4. Insert the new seal and push it up a bit at a time. The third picture shows the seal started into its new home. You may have to lubricate it with a soap solution or silicone spray to make this job easier. Once you have a few inches inserted, you'll have to stop every couple of inches and pull the top end of the seal up into the center bar.

5. Push the bottom end of the new seal up far enough in the center bar to clear the bottom of the slot you cut, then push it down into place (picture 4).

Hints:

Be very careful with the Dremel tool! You're working very close to those irreplaceable windows, and you want to do a neat job anyway. The slot I pictured is the first one I cut - the rest looked much better. The best part is that if you do this correctly, it's invisible when you're finished.

Don't use anything like oil or WD-40 to lubricate the seal for installation. You'll probably damage the vinyl and be doing this again soon.

* When you replace this seal the next time, you can probably skip the first step. The seal mainly needs to be cut off because it hardens and won't bend. You'll also have the slot cut already, so you may be able to just pull up the lower end and feed the old seal out.

Happy resealing!
Bob
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Old 12-13-2004, 11:42 AM   #12
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Thanks for the instructions and photos, I will add them to my ever growing book of tips and tricks for us crazy Airstream motorhomers
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Old 09-25-2005, 01:18 PM   #13
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Exclamation Fuzzy Channel replacement - I'm in a pickle

Hello everyone. I'm posting in this old thread in order to concentrate information for future searchers.

The driver side cockpit window in my 1984 310 Limited MH froze. I pushed on it in both directions until I was afraid I would break the handle/latch. I removed the latch to make sure that it wasn't somehow jammed. I attempted to wiggle the window up and down to make sure it wasn't binding. Nothing worked.

So I ordered some new fuzzy channel for Inland RV and today I started the job of removing the window and replacing the fuzzy channel. While I am at it I will also replace the lip seal, the trim seal, and the seal between the windows.

I have two questions:

1. Do I need to use adhesive on the the fuzzy channel? This post by Andy of Inland RV says I do but there wasn't any on the old channel: http://www.airforums.com/forum...ead.php?t=5547

2. How do I remove the stuff that seals between the windows? This stuff is a narrow fuzzy strip which has a vinyl vane running down the center of it. It is also found on the living room windows.
There is a picture of it here: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/guy99/my_photos

It appears to be inserted into a channel of some sort but I can't really see it very clearly. I've tried pulling it out, digging it out and sliding it out all to no avail. When I grab it with needle nose pliers and pull I just get some fuzz.

I currently have a gaping whole in the side of the motorhome where the window goes so I REALLY need to get the window back in.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Guy
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Old 09-25-2005, 01:40 PM   #14
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Guy.

Airstream did use an adhesive, but very sparingly. At this point, you may not find traces of it.

If you don't use adhesive, the new schlegal channel will probably fall out when you open the window, as there is nothing there to hold it in place.

The fuzzy material between the two windows, is pulled out with needle nose pliers, or better yet you can use surgical forceps.

Andy
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