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Old 06-09-2013, 11:29 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by chriswk View Post
I am working on the same problem. I removed the rotten plywood and have cleaned the C channel. Has anyone sealed the seam from the inside?

do you have to remove the exterior rub rail and drill out the rivets for access?

I have the epoxy to seal all the replacement plywood.
I think it easiest to remove the rub rail and seal from the outside but more effective to do what Barts and Perry did and add a deflector panel behind the outer skin (link to pix in posts above). Brad
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:38 PM   #16
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There is no way to seal it from the inside. You want to seal it before the wood begins.

Perry
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Old 06-11-2013, 03:42 PM   #17
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Thanks for the input.

Since I am into it I want to make the repair to last.

Is there a best practice for removing the lower rubrail?

So. drill out the rivets on the outside of the skin after removing the lower rail. install angle piece of aluminum as flashing. reseal & reinstall rub rail.

I guess I should replace the fasteners that connect the C channel to the frame as well. The seem pretty rusted.
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Old 06-11-2013, 03:50 PM   #18
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I had the same problem on my 78. I sealed the wood, sealed everything visible from inside and out, put roof flashing tar paper over whole area then re installed belly band and sealed then re installed storage bin and cover and now one final sealing over the gap between cover and rear end. If water gets through all that it deserves to win.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:59 AM   #19
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Just eliminate the plate that goes under the rear of the trailer and you won't have to mess with tar paper and flashing that the plate will just funnel water under.

Perry
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:25 AM   #20
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Perry, if you eliminate the plate where does the water thrown up by the tires while towing in the rain go, is it a problem?

doug k
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:46 AM   #21
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That water should not get that far back. Usually the bumper trim covers the lap seams from the upper and lower skins. Sometimes the seam from the lower panel ends up outside the upper panel which if you have a leak in the top of the bumper trim you could have problems. I sealed this lap seam with Trempro-635 before installing the trim.


This thread might help you. This the way I did it. I plan on putting the bumper compartment back on but I will need to extend the bumper a few inches to I have a gap at the back for water to shed. I will make a self contained box that is separate from the belly skin of the trailer.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f476/putting-skins-back-on-not-fun-91686.html


Perry
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:11 PM   #22
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I have thought about drilling some holes in that rear bumper plate to drain the much of the water away, so it does not pool back there. I don't want it to come from underneath either when towing in rain.

They added a factory seal between the shell and the frame on the new ones, but I still do not like the gathering of water there.

doug k
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:02 AM   #23
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Has anyone documented the process of removing the lower rub rail. Not sure how to remove it and don't want to damage it.
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:27 PM   #24
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Drill out the rivets. It is not hard.

Perry
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