Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-08-2011, 09:54 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
2004 25' International CCD
Brookfield , Wisconsin
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 23
Water Leak bumper Airstream

I've read many posts on bumper leaks. Most of you suggest that it is a bumper/panel leak. Airstream manufacture tells me it's an easy fix, dealer tells me best case scenario it's a $500 fix...

I dropped the bottom rear pan removed the insulation had mold on it. Had to discard mattress it had strong foul smell.

Looking for some advice, is it a do it yourself project or once you get into becomes a nightmare fix.

How can you be sure it is a bumper/panel leak? I don't see how water can find its way into Airstream everything looks pretty tight from the outside. S

Service suggest running water hose where water leak is suspected.

See pics.

dany
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	From internet search.jpg
Views:	303
Size:	70.7 KB
ID:	126466   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2898.jpg
Views:	205
Size:	106.3 KB
ID:	126467  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_8449.jpg
Views:	195
Size:	161.2 KB
ID:	126468   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_9637.jpg
Views:	143
Size:	150.3 KB
ID:	126469  

__________________

__________________
danyfr67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2011, 09:57 PM   #2
2 Rivet Member
 
2004 25' International CCD
Brookfield , Wisconsin
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 23
Airstream bumper water leak

Picture of removed rail and insert is not from my Airstream it is from a previous post.
__________________

__________________
danyfr67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2011, 11:57 PM   #3
2 Rivet Member
 
2005 22' International CCD
Aliso Viejo , California
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 61
I had leaks in that exact area which I thought was the bumper. It turned out to be the rear fantastic fan. Easy fix for me.
__________________
Davern1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2011, 12:22 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
ROBERTSUNRUS's Avatar

 
2005 25' Safari
Salem , Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 7,268
Images: 18
Blog Entries: 51
Hi, trying to be on the safe side, I sealed the bottom of the moulding, resealed the top of the moulding, and sealed off both ends where they meat the frame. This way water can't get in there and I didn't have to remove the body moulding to do it. I do not know of any leaks or damage in this area, but sealed it anyway. Seems to me that the trailers with the rear storage door [front too on some models] and those with the wrap around windows are most prone to leaking.
__________________
Bob

2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent"
[ Small Silver Castle ]
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
ROBERTSUNRUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2011, 10:28 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
dkottum's Avatar
 
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,716
These rear bumper area leaks are just to common, with fans, windows, body moulding all suspect. Here's another thought. If you seal the body moulding top and bottom, can water enter through the rivets that hold the body moulding on? The rivets are covered by the moulding insert, but I don't think that stickum holding the insert is keeping water out. That is why I am hesitant to seal the bottom of the moulding, so it can drain.

Doug
__________________
dkottum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2011, 10:41 PM   #6
Rivet Master
 
ROBERTSUNRUS's Avatar

 
2005 25' Safari
Salem , Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 7,268
Images: 18
Blog Entries: 51
Hi, the mouldings stick really good and I don't think any water can get in there unless you have a loose moulding; Mine are really tight. Time will tell.
__________________
Bob

2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent"
[ Small Silver Castle ]
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
ROBERTSUNRUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 12:47 AM   #7
3 Rivet Member
 
idmtman's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Worley , Idaho
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 131
Images: 19
Blog Entries: 7
I just sealed the bumper area on my 28' Safari. I went ahead and removed the rub rail and laid down a nice bead of TremPro, screwed the rub rail back on and caulked the top of the rub rail with ParBond. I am waiting for warmer weather before putting the chrome trim back on with 3M double-sided tape. So far, this appears to have solved the problem.

See this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...ybe-56674.html.

IMHO, if you have a leak, it is worthwhile removing the rub rail to insure that no water can penetrate from the top of the bumper under the rub rail. I did not seal the bottom of the rub rail because I want any water that might get under the rail to have a way to drain out.
__________________
Idmtman
2006 Safari 28' SE (Sylvia)
75th Anniversary Edition
2010 Toyota Tundra 4x4
TAC: ID-1
idmtman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 08:35 AM   #8
2 Rivet Member
 
2004 25' International CCD
Brookfield , Wisconsin
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 23
The caulk on the trim (rail) looks really tight. I just don't understand how water can seep in. I applied water on the trim/insert yesterday and confirmed that water was leaking through. I just can't see any gap. Dealer wants $500 to fix the leak. Is it an easy DIY project? Can I resuse the screws that are holding the trim, can I reuse the holes to screw back the trim? I know i will need to buy a new insert.

I also need a new mattress any tip on that?
__________________
danyfr67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 09:00 AM   #9
3 Rivet Member
 
idmtman's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Worley , Idaho
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 131
Images: 19
Blog Entries: 7
The water appears to seep in under the rub rail from the standing water on the top of the bumper. My rub rail was screwed in (partially) due to the fact that this "fix" had been done before (but not well). Yours may be have rivets. Either way, the job is not as bad as it sounds. You can drill out the rivets with a 1/8" drill bit. Since the rub rail is two pieces butted together at the rear of the trailer, carefully remove the chrome trim (all of it), and then starting at the rear of the trailer, remove the rivets or screws until you can pull the rub rail back from the bumper. You will not need to remove the rub rail completely. Then do the same on the other side. I took mine back around the curve and that exposed the area I needed to caulk sufficiently.

At this point, you will need to make sure everything is dry and clean. I would mask off the bumper section to make sure the caulk stays in the area under the rub rail, then lay down the caulk and tool it into a nice bead. Once the caulk cures, you can reattach the rub rail (screws or rivets), then you will need to caulk the top of the rub rail. I used Parbond which cannot be tooled but can be wiped into the gap with a rag soaked in solvent (I used Xylol, although Out-of-Doors Mart recommends body shop alcohol). They have a great video on using Parbond)

As for reattaching the chrome strip, I would say this has taken the longest because it took me 3-4 hours to completely remove the old adhesive from the back of the trim using a plastic putty knife and denatured alcohol. It would be easy to damage the trim with a metal putty knife. I went back again and tried Xylol and a fingernail to remove the last traces. Then I applies the 7/8" 3M double-sided trim tape. That is as far as I have gotten because the directions on the tape say it should be applied in temps of 65 degrees or above which we have not yet had here.

As for the mold, you can clean that off with a bleach and water solution and then replace the insulation assuming the floor is sound.

As I indicated above, this particular leak had been "fixed" before, but not very well. The caulking was not tooled so there were places where it had not adhered very well and that is where I experienced the leak.

Good luck.
__________________
Idmtman
2006 Safari 28' SE (Sylvia)
75th Anniversary Edition
2010 Toyota Tundra 4x4
TAC: ID-1
idmtman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2011, 05:14 PM   #10
2 Rivet Member
 
2004 25' International CCD
Brookfield , Wisconsin
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 23
Can I use goo gone to clean the remaining of the vulkem left on the rub rail and body of Airstream or mineral spirits?
__________________
danyfr67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2011, 12:16 AM   #11
3 Rivet Member
 
idmtman's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Worley , Idaho
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 131
Images: 19
Blog Entries: 7
If it isn't completely cured, Xylol will take it off.
__________________
Idmtman
2006 Safari 28' SE (Sylvia)
75th Anniversary Edition
2010 Toyota Tundra 4x4
TAC: ID-1
idmtman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2011, 08:44 AM   #12
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,403
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by danyfr67 View Post
Can I use goo gone to clean the remaining of the vulkem left on the rub rail and body of Airstream or mineral spirits?
Just a suggestion for next time. I always tape off the seam/moulding to be sealed with painters tape so I get a nice uniform look and no cleanup. However, because some of the sealers (parbond, in particular) skins or sets up really fast, seal about 2 - 3', then remove that 2 - 3' feet of tape, and proceed in in that manner. Otherwise the sealer will wrinkle and pull.
__________________
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2011, 06:21 PM   #13
2 Rivet Member
 
2004 25' International CCD
Brookfield , Wisconsin
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 23
I haven't applied the Vulkem yet I am trying to remove what's left from the old seal of the body and rail
__________________
danyfr67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2011, 01:07 AM   #14
3 Rivet Member
 
idmtman's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Worley , Idaho
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 131
Images: 19
Blog Entries: 7
The suggestion our AS dealer made was to use blue painter's tape to protect the plastic coat on either side of the area in question and carefully scrape off the old caulk with a blunt instrument (not metal). I have had limited success with that. Denatured alcohol, kerosene or xylol will loosen the old caulk but be careful not to rub too hard.
__________________

__________________
Idmtman
2006 Safari 28' SE (Sylvia)
75th Anniversary Edition
2010 Toyota Tundra 4x4
TAC: ID-1
idmtman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Fresh water leak Stearns Fresh Water Systems 8 03-24-2011 10:52 AM
Airstream water heater door LKSD Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 9 03-23-2011 05:46 AM
Water Leak in Plumbing eldin Fresh Water Systems 8 03-17-2011 08:43 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.