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wacnstac · 05-03-2006, 07:01 AM

I've gotten rid of almost all the leaks on my 79 31' Airstream but two. There is one on the street side corner of the back compartment where the water lines are. It has been there a long time as the floor immediate adjacent to the the aluminum is compost. I have tried caulking between the bumper and lower blue trim as this was an obvious entry point. Since then I have caulked the top of all blue trim in the area, caulked the rear window, the hatch, vents on roof nearby to no avail. It seems as though the water is coming in from down low somewhere.

The other leak is on the street side just in front of the left wheel well. Again I have caulked everything up high and even caulked the gap above the blue trim strips to no avail. If you look inside the wheel well while getting a good rain you can see the dampness along the C channel supporting the floor in that area. Can't figure this one out either.

Frustrated,
Steve

guy99 · 05-03-2006, 09:15 AM

I just fixed a leak in the left rear of our MH. Turned out to be the tail light.

wacnstac · 05-03-2006, 09:46 AM

I caulked the crap out of the tail light on that corner. In fact I bet the housing will never come out again!

wacnstac · 05-03-2006, 10:59 AM

Just looking for some moral support here on finding these guys. These two leaks and a furnace lock out problem are the three things left to fix on this trailer. I've thought I had all three fixed at various times only to find out they were not later on. Getting sick of this thing.

Steve

Condoluminum · 05-03-2006, 01:26 PM

Wac-

It may be possible water is coming in high and flowing along channels to create problems down low.. Upper amber market lights, and top edges of windows and roof/bath/refrig vents are still likely sources of water in, as could be doors for access to storage areas above wet floors. Heck, even the sealant around vent fans could be cracked and let water run down to where you see it hit the floor... As some famous warrior once said.. Never give up!

John McG

nickcrowhurst · 05-03-2006, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wacnstac

The other leak is on the street side just in front of the left wheel well... If you look inside the wheel well while getting a good rain you can see the dampness along the C channel supporting the floor in that area.

Steve, the fact that you can see the dampness appearing gives me cause for optimism. I would stick a garden fork in the earth a few feet away from the suspect area, lash a hose to the top of the fork, and spray low down, while sitting in a chair, sipping a beer, and watching for the dampness to show under the wheel well. Every ten minutes I would raise the spray a couple of feet, open another cool one, and keep watching. Eventually, you should either find the leak, or at least feel better about the whole situation!
That's how I found a leak at just one rivet. This was enough to cause a serious leak, but there was no apparent hairline round the rivet to indicate a cause for a leak. I just smeared some Alkyl-R round the rivet, and that cured it.
Nick.

RickStream · 05-03-2006, 08:25 PM

My Excella 500 had leaks. It is my experience that leaks are from the upper roof area and the water will find a way to the darnest places that have little rational connection to the source of the leak. Yes, many feet away from the source. The roof seams may not have any sealer between panels and water will go in between the rivet spacing. That was my troubles. I had removed interior panels and insulation to find that leak. That is how I traced the path the water took. Removed the roof panal and re-applied the panel with Vulkum on/in the seam. No more leak!! Also, Vista View windows will leak. I would look high on top for your leaks. Look for anything that has the littlest of seams. Believe me, if there is a seam it can leak. Clean the edge of the panel's seam and place a line of sealer on it. Or, the sure way to find the leak is to remove the interior and look over the inside of the outer panels. Good luck.

wacnstac · 05-04-2006, 09:54 AM

Removing the inner panels in the areas of both these leaks, especially the one in back would be a major rebuild project.

wacnstac · 05-04-2006, 09:03 PM

I have caulked, caulked, and caulked again. Today I water tested just the lower left rear portion of the trailer. I do believe that water entered again. Obviously this has been a problem for some time. I vacuumed out the area back there with a shop vac and approx 1" of the floor (compost) vacuumed out.

I have vulkemed above and below the blue belt, between the body, Parabond around the rear reflector,.... you name it.

What is behind the rear reflector. Can water get in behind that reflector? I am assuming not since there's no bulb back there but maybe somebody can shed some light on that.

I have run out of time for work on this rig in my driveway. Saturday it heads up north towards it's home. I will duct tape and tarp around the lower left section until I can get this fixed. Possibly I'll find out the leak is up higher but I don't think so. Need to get rid of this leak. It really smells bad back there from the wet wood that has been there so long.

Jada · 05-04-2006, 09:17 PM

I had lots of leak problems at one time. Removed the blue band and found that the rail was pop riveted on. Caulked them over. Hope this helps.

Ja

wacnstac · 05-05-2006, 06:57 AM

I have also removed the blue band a caulked over any exposed pop rivits.

Steve

guy99 · 05-05-2006, 08:40 AM

We took our MH to an RV shop where they used 'smoke' and a blower attached to a 14" vent to find some leaks that I couldn't locate. I have forgotten the name of the machine but could find out if you wanted it. Not all shops have this machine - I called a few before I found one that did.

garry · 05-05-2006, 08:53 AM

This may not help but I had a rear leak and it turned out to be the gasket around the fold down door was not sealing. The seal looked good but not doing the job.
Replaced the door gasket and no more leak.

Garry

guy99 · 05-05-2006, 09:25 AM

I just remembered the name of the machine - Sealtech - and looked them up. Turns out I didn't have it right, they don't use smoke, they us soap bubbles.

http://www.rvleaks.com/how.htm

I didn't see a place in Detroit, but they have a couple in Grand Rapids. When I had mine done it didn't cost a lot, just about 1/2 hour labor.

wacnstac · 05-05-2006, 10:42 AM

In fact I am taking the rig to Woodland RV tomorrow to fix my black water tank leak and they have one of these Sealtech there, but they said they would not offer this service to me as they only usually do it during the winter when they are slow. I can't imagine how you could seal all normal paths of air exit (such as the passage ways from the rear compartment to the belly area), to get enough pressure in the trailer to see bubbles on the skin from other leaks. Unfortunately I think I am on my own with this one.

Chuck · 05-05-2006, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wacnstac

In fact I am taking the rig to Woodland RV tomorrow to fix my black water tank leak and they have one of these Sealtech there, but they said they would not offer this service to me as they only usually do it during the winter when they are slow. I can't imagine how you could seal all normal paths of air exit (such as the passage ways from the rear compartment to the belly area), to get enough pressure in the trailer to see bubbles on the skin from other leaks. Unfortunately I think I am on my own with this one.

I wonder if you couldn't make up a "DIY" version of this device with some plastic sheeting, duct tape, and a gas or electric powered leaf blower.