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12-16-2011, 11:40 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master
1984 31' Excella
Abernathy
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 865
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Through The Roof
http://www.sashco.com/hi/through-the-roof.html
Anyone ever use this product to deal with sealing seams or rivets?
I am curious if it is suitable as I am trying to deal with an unknown leak source and am considering using the brush on to cover every rivet and seam on top of my 1984 31' Excella.
Comments?
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12-17-2011, 12:32 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dscluchfc
Through the Roof!® - Clear Roof Sealant
Anyone ever use this product to deal with sealing seams or rivets?
I am curious if it is suitable as I am trying to deal with an unknown leak source and am considering using the brush on to cover every rivet and seam on top of my 1984 31' Excella.
Comments?
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DON'T.
Before you do anything, where is the leak/leaks.
Many owners here will be glad to offer suggestions.
That junk on the roof, will make your trailer look terrible.
Andy
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12-17-2011, 07:42 AM
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#3
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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What Andy said....
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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12-17-2011, 08:25 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1984 31' Excella
Abernathy
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 865
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Not talking about mopping it on. Just art brush painting it around some individual rivets.
Parrbond lasts about 6 months then cracks.
What would be different about this stuff and clear Acryl-R, which Airstream's factory has used?
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12-17-2011, 09:00 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dscluchfc
Not talking about mopping it on. Just art brush painting it around some individual rivets.
Parrbond lasts about 6 months then cracks.
What would be different about this stuff and clear Acryl-R, which Airstream's factory has used?
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I am not aware of Parbond cracking, and we have used it for many years.
The idea behind water leaks, is to locate and correct the problem, and not to gob up a bunch of rivets, or seams.
There are many very easy ways to locate water leaks, and then correct them.
Where exactly are the leaks in your coach?
Andy
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12-17-2011, 10:30 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1984 31' Excella
Abernathy
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 865
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In the furnace of a West Texas Summer, Parrbond dries out and cracks, and becomes brittle enough that it can be removed simply by washing the trailer and it flaking off.
The leak I am chasing is street side rear of the trailer, and I have reason to believe it is one or more rivets topside left quarter of the trailer because when I seal them with Parrbond the leak goes away until the seal cracks and forms a channel around the rivets which acts as a funnel.
Therefore, I am searching for a better product, non silicone, which can be surgically applied, and would produce better results.
We did a trip in June to Moab, and I'm July to the Guadalupe Mountains. Due to the extreme drought and heat, and 2000+ miles of travel this Summer, I once again had leaks appear once it finally rained in West Texas.
When a carwashing brush or a simple finger wipe over dried Parrbond is sufficient to remove it after only one year, then there has to be a better solution....I would hope.
I would think art brushing, or using a syringe to apply this stuff might work.
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12-17-2011, 10:44 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dscluchfc
In the furnace of a West Texas Summer, Parrbond dries out and cracks, and becomes brittle enough that it can be removed simply by washing the trailer and it flaking off.
The leak I am chasing is street side rear of the trailer, and I have reason to believe it is one or more rivets topside left quarter of the trailer because when I seal them with Parrbond the leak goes away until the seal cracks and forms a channel around the rivets which acts as a funnel.
Therefore, I am searching for a better product, non silicone, which can be surgically applied, and would produce better results.
We did a trip in June to Moab, and I'm July to the Guadalupe Mountains. Due to the extreme drought and heat, and 2000+ miles of travel this Summer, I once again had leaks appear once it finally rained in West Texas.
When a carwashing brush or a simple finger wipe over dried Parrbond is sufficient to remove it after only one year, then there has to be a better solution....I would hope.
I would think art brushing, or using a syringe to apply this stuff might work.
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It's far better to use a product with a history.
If the Texas heat fractures the Parbond, then I would suggest using Sikoflex, which is a sealer that many Airstream owners are happy with.
Check all the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets, as they only last 2 to 3 years.
Water can travel within the shell of any Airstream, so locating the general area, is a big start in the right direction.
Andy
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12-17-2011, 12:56 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1984 31' Excella
Abernathy
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 865
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Andy, my trailer isn't any museum piece. It has more than enough hail dents than are necessary to give it "character". I have about 3 dents from lemon to baseball sized hail. It already looks like hell. IF I had turned in the last hailstorm as a claim, they would have totaled the trailer. Both end caps, the top, and the refer vent cover and range vent cover are dented up. It would cost more to "restore" than it is worth.
Everything else about the trailer on the inside is completely functional.
I am interested in the floor not rotting out of it from leaks. It is a good place to stay as I travel around the country as a semi-pro doing landscape photography when I can get away from my life insurance/investments practice, so I am seeking a way to deal with the situation in a time expeditious way because a full monty is just not in the cards.
I have done the vent gaskets a couple of times and reason, due to their location, this leaking that has me completely frustrated is not from those.
I will say, that upon opening the can of the brushable "Through The Roof", it appears to greatly resemble the Acryl-R photos I have seen, and would appear to be easily applied by small art brush, or syringe.
I think I am going to do a test, and report the results if they happen to be satisfactory.
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12-22-2011, 09:15 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1984 31' Excella
Abernathy
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 865
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About a week ago, I decided to use a very small brush to apply some of the "Through The Roof" clear acrylic brushable to some rivets on top of the trailer.
Application was easy to place a dob of stuff on top of a rivet large enough to cover it. This stuff pretty much self levels as it cures, although application would perhaps be a little better if it were a little bit more thinned to flow easier.
Once cured, it was nearly possible to see where it had been applied as it cures out completely clear! It looks and feels to the touch much like newly cured plasticoat. Now it will have to endure the test of weather to prove its long term durability in function and appearance.
BONUS! One of the rain leaks I have been chasing didn't leak a couple days ago!!!
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03-05-2012, 06:36 PM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
1978 23' Safari
eugene
, Oregon
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 63
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so if I may borrow your thread...and we're on the subject, my 78' isn't leaking but I was wondering if there is a product that goes on the roof as periodic maintenance or is car wax enough. Thank you
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05-25-2012, 12:55 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1984 31' Excella
Abernathy
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 865
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After the success of one of the leaks being fixed, I got more aggressive with a couple of leaks that I suspected were in the cut of the roof for the AC.
I painted "Through the Roof" around the AC mounted on the roof. The most pesky leak has now not leaker in the past 3 decent downpours.
The next test is the unrelenting Texas sun!
The past two days here have been over 100, so we will soon know just how good "Through the Roof" really is!
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05-25-2012, 11:04 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
El Paso
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dscluchfc
After the success of one of the leaks being fixed, I got more aggressive with a couple of leaks that I suspected were in the cut of the roof for the AC.
I painted "Through the Roof" around the AC mounted on the roof. The most pesky leak has now not leaker in the past 3 decent downpours.
The next test is the unrelenting Texas sun!
The past two days here have been over 100, so we will soon know just how good "Through the Roof" really is!
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Thanks for sharing, I'm going to have to try some that stuff.
Mike
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05-25-2012, 11:24 AM
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#13
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3 Rivet Member
2018 25' International
Van Wert
, Ohio
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 139
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If this stuff works that wellit might be great for our roofs...thanks for the tip.
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05-25-2012, 01:01 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
El Paso
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 945
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My local Ace hardware has it in stock!
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05-25-2012, 07:09 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1984 31' Excella
Abernathy
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 865
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I hope your experience matches mine. I am happy so far with the results.
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05-25-2012, 07:33 PM
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#16
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WBCCI 1024,4CU
1985 31' Excella
Lake Havasu
, Arizona
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 53
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Hello All, Three years ago I decided to use Parbond. What I discovered is that the application is only worth what you put into the process. The secret to the Parbond is to use alcohol as a cleaning agent on all areas prior to applying the Parbond. Once I had this down pat it applies flawlessly and smoothly as advertised. No where does the temperature exceed Lake Havasu Az in the summer and I have had no leaks what so ever and zero cracking. I for one am sold on Parbond as the sealer of choice on my rig. We just came back from a quick trip to the Jemez, Capital Reef, Great Basin with several down pours and not a drop. Our next trip is to the Alcan in the next few weeks and I rest assured that the results will be the same.
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05-25-2012, 08:45 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1984 31' Excella
Abernathy
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 865
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I know how to apply parbond, and I don't believe my issue with the weathering of parbond is a temperature issue, but a UV issue from my trailer not being under cover.
I may in time have the same issue with Through The Roof....time will tell.
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05-25-2012, 10:05 PM
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#18
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4 Rivet Member
1974 23' Safari
Vintage Kin Owner
1947 25' Spartan
, Manor
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 457
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Glad it worked. And glad to hear the other side of the coin from Andy. Kinda of a strange thread here since there was feedback for the questions with a resounding "bad idea" from a pro, but it seemed it was never really a questions wether or not it was going to be used. To each his own.
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05-25-2012, 11:53 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
1984 31' Excella
Abernathy
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 865
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Eric, Andy said "don't" in bold print, and called it junk, and said it would make my trailer look terrible.
Andy has obviously never seen the product on an Airstream because it is practically invisible to the eye when cured, and you have to get very close to a rivet to see it, and it frankly helps to touch the rivet to verify the presence of the clear acrylic sealant on a rivet or seam.
Further, Andy sells Parrbond, and doesn't sell Through the Roof.
Coincidence he recommends only Parrbond and refers to other potential options as junk?
It appears to me that the Through the Roof product, a completely clear, non-silicone based self leveling acrylic is very much like a thickened plasticoat, or acryl-r, or perhaps even a clear Parrbond....(yes Parrbond comes in clear as well as aluminum and white).
And yes, it was fully my intention of testing it unless someone had actually used the Through the Roof product with poor results. So, yes, to each his own.
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05-26-2012, 03:12 PM
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#20
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4 Rivet Member
1974 23' Safari
Vintage Kin Owner
1947 25' Spartan
, Manor
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 457
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With all the solid free advice Andy gives out I seriously doubt he is just calling it junk to sell you a couple tubes of parrbond man. The more important advice was looked over, which is that simply slapping whatever kind of sealant over a seam or rivet is a poor way to stop a leak in general. I'm sure Andy has seen a lot of trailers, and a lot of "home repairs" and has has to fix them.
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