Tested various sealants - FYI

[bbodenstein]

After reading lots of posts about the various products, decided to purchase a selection and test for myself. Project is replacing a couple of clearance lights on my 09 25 FB International.
Here's what I bought:
Sikaflex-221, Parbond, Trempro 635, ACRYL-R in 12 oz can with applicator, Aluminum Pigmented Gutterseal by Ply Gem Industries. Goal was to look at appearance, adhesion, dry time and overall toughness. I applied samples to a piece of aluminum on Dec 17. It is now Dec 21. Material is in a climate controlled area with average temp of 65 F.
Results:
Sikaflex-221 - Nice gray look, pulled cleanly away from aluminum without much effort (not sure if this is good), 24 hours was well cured, toughest product.
Trempro 635 - Nice gray and slightly shinier than Sikaflex, more difficult to pull away from aluminum and left residue, 24 well cured, slightly less tough than Sikaflex.
Parbond - Better aluminum look and easier to apply a tiny bead, clean removal from aluminum, 24 hrs well cured, tough.
Aluminum Gutter Seal - Nice aluminum color, makes a nice bead out of tube but self leveled out a bit more than I wanted, adheres well to aluminum, 24 hour cure, not as tough as Parbond.
ACRYL-R - Nice aluminum color, I didn't try applicator nozzle but placed a blob on aluminum. It self leveled to a degree. Very much adheres to aluminum and will be extremely difficult to remove. After 4 days material still may not be totally cured. At this point I can still move the blob around a bit with my fingernail.
Conclusions for me:
Either Sikaflex or Tempro for through the body sealing (wiring, screw holes, etc.). Parbond for appearance around light fixtures possibly.

Any feedback will always be appreciated

[KJRitchie]

I've used Parbond around lights. Works well for than, maybe due to it being dispensed from a tube.

Surprised the Sikaflex 221 pulls away easily. I was planning on using that on my roof vents this spring. I guess as long as it seals well, stands up to the elements and lasts a long time, easy removal is a good thing.

Kelvin

[dennis3751]

I used Acryl-R to seal all seams on our 29' Ambassador. It does take a while to skin over but I think this will help keep the seal in place. I also like the way a bead shrinks in width as it drys.

Dennis

[crispyboy]

Acryl-R is my favorite for small seams - seems to stay flexible for years - workable if your quick.
Sikaflex - This product seems more workable than Trempro. Both seem to last about the same.

[dbj216]

I like the Acryl-R for seam sealing. The "self leveling" helps the applied material wick into seams.

Jackson Center service techs were using Acryl-R when I was there for some major repairs. So I bought a can of it at their store in the waiting area.

David

[wahoonc]

Did you clean the aluminum first? I also believe there may be a primer for Sikaflex. I would have to check on that one. The Sikaflex and the Trempro are very similar in chemical makeup.

Aaron

[lewster]

If you cleaned the aluminum surface prior to application (which is a MUST) and used any type of cleaning agent that contains any type of alcohol, then you have compromised the bonding properties of the SikaFlex.

I've been using it non-stop for 15 years and have NEVER been able to pull it from any aluminum surface when properly prepped. It doesn't even scrape well when cured.

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bbodenstein

After reading lots of posts about the various products, decided to purchase a selection and test for myself. Project is replacing a couple of clearance lights on my 09 25 FB International.
Here's what I bought:
Sikaflex-221, Parbond, Trempro 635, ACRYL-R in 12 oz can with applicator, Aluminum Pigmented Gutterseal by Ply Gem Industries. Goal was to look at appearance, adhesion, dry time and overall toughness. I applied samples to a piece of aluminum on Dec 17. It is now Dec 21. Material is in a climate controlled area with average temp of 65 F. ......

Any feedback will always be appreciated

Did you make your tests on aluminum or clear coated aluminum?
You will get completely different results on Clear coats, I.e. Vulkem 116 sticks like thunder to raw aluminum , but can be peeled of after drying from clear coated surfaces.

[DaKs]

Originally Posted by lewster

If you cleaned the aluminum surface prior to application (which is a MUST) and used any type of cleaning agent that contains any type of alcohol, then you have compromised the bonding properties of the SikaFlex.

I've been using it non-stop for 15 years and have NEVER been able to pull it from any aluminum surface when properly prepped. It doesn't even scrape well when cured.

What do you use to clean the aluminum.
Thanks

[lewster]

Originally Posted by DaKs

What do you use to clean the aluminum.
Thanks

Carburetor cleaner or mineral spirits. I prefer the carb cleaner.

[bbodenstein]

Thanks a bunch everyone. This is what I was after in originally post. I've learned a lot already.

[NC Camper]

Originally Posted by bbodenstein

After reading lots of posts about the various products, decided to purchase a selection and test for myself. Project is replacing a couple of clearance lights on my 09 25 FB International.
Here's what I bought:
Sikaflex-221, Parbond, Trempro 635, ACRYL-R in 12 oz can with applicator, Aluminum Pigmented Gutterseal by Ply Gem Industries. Goal was to look at appearance, adhesion, dry time and overall toughness. I applied samples to a piece of aluminum on Dec 17. It is now Dec 21. Material is in a climate controlled area with average temp of 65 F.
Results:
Sikaflex-221 - Nice gray look, pulled cleanly away from aluminum without much effort (not sure if this is good), 24 hours was well cured, toughest product.
Trempro 635 - Nice gray and slightly shinier than Sikaflex, more difficult to pull away from aluminum and left residue, 24 well cured, slightly less tough than Sikaflex.
Parbond - Better aluminum look and easier to apply a tiny bead, clean removal from aluminum, 24 hrs well cured, tough.
Aluminum Gutter Seal - Nice aluminum color, makes a nice bead out of tube but self leveled out a bit more than I wanted, adheres well to aluminum, 24 hour cure, not as tough as Parbond.
ACRYL-R - Nice aluminum color, I didn't try applicator nozzle but placed a blob on aluminum. It self leveled to a degree. Very much adheres to aluminum and will be extremely difficult to remove. After 4 days material still may not be totally cured. At this point I can still move the blob around a bit with my fingernail.
Conclusions for me:
Either Sikaflex or Tempro for through the body sealing (wiring, screw holes, etc.). Parbond for appearance around light fixtures possibly.

Any feedback will always be appreciated

Very helpful info, thanks!

Is there any difference between the ACRYL-R that you used and the ACRYL-R sealant caulk in a tube? (Amazon.com: RV Motorhome Joint Sealant Acryl-R Caulk, 10.3 oz, Aluminum: Home Improvement) I don't know whether I could get a consistent application with a brush.

[joel]

Try vulkem polyurethane caulk and see lf you like it .You don't want a sealant that pulls away from the surface with out major effort. Would not work in areas where it needs to flow in.

[carl2591]

how about brake cleaner the Non-Chlorinated type. Is this the same as carb cleaner. when using mineral spirits you just wipe down the area you are working on an let dry pretty much??

Originally Posted by lewster

Carburetor cleaner or mineral spirits. I prefer the carb cleaner.

[lewster]

Should work. Just be sure you don't use alcohol around polyurethane sealants.


Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center*AMS Lithium Batteries
Lifeline AGM Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357

[Ronald S.]

Originally Posted by lewster

Should work. Just be sure you don't use alcohol around polyurethane sealants.


Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center*AMS Lithium Batteries
Lifeline AGM Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357

Hello,

i know this is an old post, but i hope i can still ask a question about it.

First of all, I'm from Germany and have a 1986 Airstream Excella 32 ". Unfortunately, some seams are leaking and the caravan is leaking. So I read this post with interest.

Do I understand correctly that "Acryl-R with Applicator" pulls under the aluminum and thereby seals?

There is still a streak of sealant visible on the outside of the seam, doesn't it? If so, can I treat it or wipe it away so that nothing is visible from the outside?

I hope you can help me.

Best regards
Ronald

[dbj216]

Greetings and welcome from Colorado: Your leaking Airstream is no different than most old Airstreams. Fighting leaks is a constant battle. But if you win, your Airstream will last longer.

Acra L used to be sold by Airstream. When I visited the factory 8 years ago, most of the service techs has a applicator can of it in their work area. I purchased some, and used it up on my trailer. It is a "wicking" type sealant and supposedly wicks into the seams where it can. Maybe I used it wrong, but it did leave a bead of sealant visible on the seam. See photo.

David

[Ronald S.]

Hi David,

Thanks for your quick reply.

Did you use the "applicator" during processing?

I've read that you should use "Acryl-R Can with Applicator". Is it possible to draw such fine seams with the applicator that the bead is not there ???

I don't know, but that would be great and what I'm looking for.

Maybe there is something else that pulls under the seams and seals them? I am grateful for every tip.

Best regards Ronald

[KCurtis]

I use Acryl-R with the Applicator. After a little experience with it I can lay a consistent fine beed along the seam lines. I only do this when I can place my unit in storage for at least 30 days. It takes it a while to setup so rain and road conditions don't have an adverse affect on it.

[Ronald S.]

Is it possible to smooth “Acryl-R” after processing? Similar to a silicone joint?

Or does it only help to practice and then it works with a nice seam?