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Old 11-02-2010, 12:33 AM   #15
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Todays photos

Todays pics....


This will be the Old Girls new wheel well on the inside. I am going to use bubble Alum. insulation between the two wells. The old insuation is not usable again.
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I will slip this in between the old black plastic wheel well and the "fender skin" and pop rivet in place and use vulkum to seal cracks in the old black plastic WW. Hopefully this will stop water from leaking under the new cabinets and plywood patch, (posted on another thread), in front of the wheel well. trex

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Old 11-02-2010, 01:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minno View Post
They make little tiny roll on covers for sealant tubes now-a-days (look like condoms but really tiny!) that work quite well for keeping sealants flexable.
Kay, I'll have to look for that. I've used wire nuts and nails—a 4" coated framing nail works well most of the time. Because it's coated, it's less likely to rust and slides in and out better. Some tubes come with a plastic cover that looks like a wire nut and is supposed to screw onto the end. All of these work for a while, but the Sikaflex firmed up in a matter of months, faster than I've seen from a sealant. Usually the first 1/2" or 1" gets somewhat hard and seals the rest of the nozzle from air, but the Sikaflex was hard in the entire nozzle and perhaps into the tube itself.

The can I got from Airstream is Acryl-R (it also comes in tubes) and can be used interchangeably with Sikaflex for many applications.

Gene
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:01 PM   #17
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Bubble aluminum? Haven't heard of that before....we just used fiberglass in ours - it was what was in it originally. I'm interested in hearing about this stuff! BTW: the new inside wheel wells look great! Will they be visible when your design is done?

Kay
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:10 PM   #18
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Bubble aluminum?
Could that be Reflectix? I'm not sure that's the best insulation for the purpose.

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Old 11-02-2010, 09:42 PM   #19
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Yep…thinking about using Reflectix. 38 years ago they used formaldehyde to help bind the fiberglass insulation together. Don’t really want to put that stuff back in the Old Girl. The previous owner of the Old Girl used Reflectix to cover the outside of the white plastic wheel well and on the floor under the cabinets…he had it glued down with contact cement.

What is the downside with using refectix insulation? I am still working on the roof/window leaks, so I have time to change to some other type of insulation if there are issues and/or problem with using Refectix. trex

PS... Minno, the wheel well will be hiden by cabinets and Diner seating on the other side.
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Old 11-03-2010, 12:19 AM   #20
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While we use Reflectix on windows and roof openings and it does make a difference, it probably has pretty low R value. It's good for some uses like those. There are some threads about this and discussions about foam, boards and fiberglass. You gotta find them and make a decision.

Reflectix can act as a vapor barrier and with reflective surfaces on both sides would seem to trap some within walls. I don't understand exactly where you want to put it, so I'm thinking how it works in a wall. You would have to pile a lot up to fill a wall. My concern is that vapor has to escape either inside or outside so you only have a vapor barrier on one side. A problem with Airstreams is there aren't a lot of areas where vapor can escape, so I wouldn't want to make it worse. This is my weak understanding of this.

But I'd research vapor barriers and R values.

Gene
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Old 11-03-2010, 12:58 PM   #21
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Hey we're neighbors

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SLC = Shasta Lake City, CA.
Closest one so far.
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Old 11-03-2010, 02:27 PM   #22
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So far, I've only had a couple of minor leaks to fix in our trailer, bought used a couple of seasons ago.

Luckily they have all been relatively easy to find and cure - two were just above window frames, and the last was due to someone (factory?) torquing the skylight screws down too much and cracking the plastic flange in many places. I have that "gooped up" now but really should replace both skylights.

I have hear of equipment available to pressurize the trailer and then look for leaks from outside with a spritzer bottle of soapy water.

I'd be inclined to try that if I had a leak that was hard to pin point.

If I ever had to, I wondered about making a plywood panel that could be clamped over the rectangular luggage hatch over the back bumper. I would connect a dryer hose to a hole in the panel and put an electric leaf blower on the other end of the hose. Seemed to me it might be easier to do it that way that at the main trailer door.

Think it would develop enough internal pressure to work or are there just so many places for the air to escape that a much larger blower would be needed?

Anyone tried anything similar

Brian.
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Old 11-03-2010, 08:53 PM   #23
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As much fun...as taken your sister to the Prom

I removed and inspected the front roof vent today. Pulled the double top cover and found that the original Airstream plastic vent cover was cracked. So, I checked the replacement cost on line, for new vent cover from Inland RV….$99.00 bucks! Drove over to the locate RV center across the freeway and purchased a new vent kit for $49. No fan, but that’s O.K.

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Old owner used bondo to seal around the old vent, so I had to get the sander out to prep openning.


Removed the old vent and cut the hold square, using templet supplied with the kit. My question is... do I use Vulkum to seal around the new vent, or buy some sealer tape? Or use both?
trex
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Old 11-03-2010, 09:13 PM   #24
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Hey SilverHoot.....

I live behind the Old Giant Orange Restaurant off of Cascade Blvd in Pine Grove. I would like to see your trailer someday, or if you would like to check out my project, you're more than welcome to stop by my place. 3008 West St. trex
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:17 PM   #25
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New vent and a couple of leaks fixed

Installed the new roof vent this morning…. The kit didn’t come with a gasket, so I used some double sided tape, vulkum, and 3/16 inch pop rivets.

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In the afternoon I installed ETERNABOND MICROSEALANT tape around the base of the vent. The rest of the day I sealed the front windows, the road side vista window, and the full length of the awning.

Tomorrow I will fix the leaks around refrigerator vent….hopefully

trex
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Old 11-07-2010, 02:18 PM   #26
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Rained 2" last nite.... still leak'en around the awning bolts and/or vista window. The good news is the street side vista window and the two wing windows are no longer leak'en. Also the new roof vent and refrigerator vent are good to go. 5 leaks down, 2 to go, maybe three! Fun, Fun, Fun tell your daddy takes the.....Vulkum away! trex
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Old 11-19-2010, 12:46 AM   #27
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Weather report says rain on Sat. nite... finished sealing the last leak yesterday, hopefully. The front awning bolts were the problem, I think. I guess I will find out tomorrow if my final leak has been stopped! trex
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Old 11-30-2010, 12:49 PM   #28
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It has rained really hard here at the old duck farm since I sealed my last leak in the Old Girl.... O'HAPPY DAZE! No sign of water in the Old Girl! My last coat of Smart Primer will go on the inside skin today. The Bunny and I will pick out colors tonite at Home Depot. I may keep the ele. heater on all nite after the first coat of paint. I like the Smart Primer so far. Hopefully it will do it's job and stop the sticky stuff.
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