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Old 11-29-2011, 07:10 PM   #1
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Still have leaks

Well it was a wise move not to cover the floor in my trailer yet. I still have leaks at the front of the trailer. I have a leak on the door side front corner. The only thing I have not sealed on that side is the flood light. Are those a source of leaks? Also those corner marker lights that stick out like little horns do they leak? I also have some leaks on the left side where the big windows are. I have not had a chance to seal the windows on that side so I am hopeing they are the source of the leak. The leaks around the door appear to be fixed.

I also have a leak at one of the rear corners that I just put a new floor in. I have not sealed the rear window either. I am running out of things to patch. Any ideas folks? So far I have sealed all the windows on the right side and the front windows. I have sealed the front and side awning covers. I fixed the vent covers. I do need to seal the vent flanges and the bathroom fan vent and the rear sewer vent. It is a center bath model. It looks like the only leak I fixed was the one around the door. Don't you just love PO's that never did any maintenance?

Perry
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:49 PM   #2
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Leaks suck. If I had that many leaks, I'd take it in and have it pressure tested.
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:52 PM   #3
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I seem to remember something about pressure testing. So how is it done and who does it?

Perry
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:01 PM   #4
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RV shops should be able to do it. They use a large blower, like a overgrown leaf blower attached to the overhead vent from the inside to pressurize the trailer. Then they go around spraying soapy water on the joints looking for bubbles.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:07 PM   #5
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Yes, everything can be a leak that penetrates the trailer skin or is a skin seam. All the lights are a possibility.

Our trailer spent a lot of time just sitting, and had a lot of little leaks when we got it. One of the best items I found was "Capt.Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure" It is a fluid which wicks into the leaks (cracks) and seals them. It doesn't fix the big ones, but does wonders for the little leaks.

Now if I could only find the source of the small leak to the left of my door..........and give some of the Capt's cure.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:09 PM   #6
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Perry,
Any place that has a rivet, seam or hole drilled into the skin can and will leak.
The machine Steve is talking about is called a SealTech 430r. Soldiermedic here on the forums has one. He is a bit far from you at the moment. Here is their website.
Sealtech Manufacturing Inc. - RV leaks bubbles recreational vehicles
They have a listing of some of the RV dealers that have one under the "where to find it" tab.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:12 PM   #7
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Well I could hook a leaf blower to the trailer and look for leaks. I think I need to seal everything and then if I still have leaks I can try the leaf blower trick. It may be a good idea to check for leaks once I think I have them all sealed.

Usually I take the Parrbond and seal down in cracks then put Vulkem over that so I will have a double seal. I like dealing with Parrbond better than Vulkem. The Parrbond does dry a little too fast. The Parrbond smells good so you know it has to be good !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If it does not smell toxic it can't be working.

Perry
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:17 PM   #8
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My preference is Acryl-R over Parrbond. The 2nd PO used Parrbond in 2003 on my Ambassador and it didn't last as long as he hoped.
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:11 AM   #9
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Why is Acryl-R is better? I was reading that thread and I am wanting to upgrade the floodlight with LED's so I don't melt the lens again. Is this the LED element that folks are using for this conversion?

12 LED Warm White Chip C12WW [15751W-19] - $14.95 : LEDs 4, Recreational Vehicles

and it looks like this is the same housing?

Flush Mount 5.5 in Backup Light 80423C [3693W] - $21.95 : LEDs 4, Recreational Vehicles

I think my housing is ok but the lens is toast.

I took the lens off last week and pulled out the dried up gasket. I noticed that water could funnel down the bulb socket and possibly below the skin. I was hopeing it was designed like most of the Signal Stat lights so that water could run in and back out without leaking to the interior. I maybe wrong on that and this is the source of my leak on the corner below the light.

Perry
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:11 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
Why is Acryl-R is better? I was reading that thread and I am wanting to upgrade the floodlight with LED's so I don't melt the lens again. Is this the LED element that folks are using for this conversion?

12 LED Warm White Chip C12WW [15751W-19] - $14.95 : LEDs 4, Recreational Vehicles

and it looks like this is the same housing?

Flush Mount 5.5 in Backup Light 80423C [3693W] - $21.95 : LEDs 4, Recreational Vehicles

I think my housing is ok but the lens is toast.

I took the lens off last week and pulled out the dried up gasket. I noticed that water could funnel down the bulb socket and possibly below the skin. I was hopeing it was designed like most of the Signal Stat lights so that water could run in and back out without leaking to the interior. I maybe wrong on that and this is the source of my leak on the corner below the light.

Perry
This is the one I got (except in bright white....mistake.....get warm white)


42 LED Warm White Upgrade for Outside Patio Light 48x68WW9016W [48x68WW9016W] - $21.95 : LEDs 4, Recreational Vehicles
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:23 AM   #11
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I took our Airstream to a dealer in Anniston for the leak/pressure test. They told me they had fixed all the leaks, but I found several obvious ones upon returning home. I think the pressure test is s good idea, just be sure to use someone who knows what they are doing.
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:29 AM   #12
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Ok I just bought one of those. Sounds like it might be a good idea to derate the voltage a little to prolong life.

Perry
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:33 AM   #13
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Ok I just bought one of those. Sounds like it might be a good idea to derate the voltage a little to prolong life.

Perry
I don't think it's necessary. I think his warning is for extended usage in direct sunlight, where the heat generated plus the high thermal load of the sun has caused issues. I have accidentally left mine on all night a couple of times (bet the neighbors loved that!) with no issues.
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:15 AM   #14
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1981 31' Excella II
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I took the flood light off last night and I don't think that is a source of major leaks although it does look like water did leak through the bulb base area. I don't know why they did not mount the thing upside down so water could not collect in that area and find its way into the trailer.

I think the biggest leak is the roof vent. There is a thick layer of Vulkem there and it is peeling up. It is going to be fun to remove. I think I am going to have to get a heat gun after it. I tried to remove some of it last night when it was in the 40's and it was hard to get that stuff to move.

Perry
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