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Old 01-07-2012, 07:37 PM   #29
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The hardest leak for me to find required the removal of the inside skin in front of the door to the front endcap. That leak didn't appear on the surface of the wood floor at all. It followed the outside skin to the channel and down into the belly pan. It would have wicked into the wood floor and rotted it out again. The source of the leak was the midway outside skin lap corner where 4 panels meet. It looked fine from the outside as well as from the inside, but it leaked every time it rained.

The other leak in the same area that went right to the channel was the vista window. That one I could see with the inside skin on, but it was easier to fix and much easier to test with the skin removed. Vulkem 116 fixed both of those.
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:14 AM   #30
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I found another leak at the bottom seam of the fixed window to the right of the door. The frame is made of 2 halves and there is no way for it to leak accept at the seam where the two halves meet. I can seal this one from the inside but the rivets are going to have to be sealed from the outside.

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Old 01-11-2012, 10:04 AM   #31
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Well it looks like Acryl-R is the recommended sealant over Parbond. I have seen this stuff sold in the can and also the caulk tube. Is there any difference in the two? The caulk tube seems like the cheapest and lowest hassel way to do it?


"Standard caulking guns or industrial pump and flow gun"

Here is the spec sheet from Schenee-Morehead don't as me how to pronounce it.

http://acrylr.com/pdf-sm/SM5504TDS.pdf I think this is the one to get but I found the spec below as well.

http://acrylr.com/pdf-sm/SM5522TDS.pdf

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Old 01-11-2012, 07:31 PM   #32
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The composition of them is the same. Just different delivery methods. I have the can with the pump attached I purchased from the Airstream store. I use the pump to pump it into a Veterinary syringe for application.
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Old 01-11-2012, 08:00 PM   #33
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I shoot the acryl R using the pump. Worth the money, cannot imagine trying to apply using a caulk gun.
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Old 01-17-2012, 04:30 PM   #34
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Ok window leak is fixed but I still have a leak to the right of the door. I put some Parbond on the rivets along the Z-stringer the right of the door. However, the leak is still there. I stuck my hand up under the awning and felt yet another rivet up there where it is constantly soaked by wet canvas. I am wondering what the purpose is of the awning cover if it lets water soak the canvas. It seems that we need an awning cover for the awning cover. I have not been above the awning cover to see if that Z-stringer goes above the cover but I am betting that it does. Don't you just love leaks. We have had about 6 inches of rain here in about 2 hrs. I guess when I get it to not leak in a rain like that, then I am done.

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Old 01-17-2012, 08:59 PM   #35
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My trailer sheltered 5 missing rivets hidden under the awning roller. That was in addition to many loose rivets attaching the awning rail. It was all easy to fix by removing the roller.
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Old 01-17-2012, 09:39 PM   #36
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Perry,


Got the Acryl-R here.

And the Plews gun here.

AS store was out of stock and the $$$ was a little better.


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Old 01-17-2012, 11:26 PM   #37
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I have been a fan of drains in the "C" channel for a long time. Especially on each side of the entry door. It just makes sense to let the water out the bottom of the trailer instead of inside and onto the floor. I can't believe an 8" long drain on each side of the door way would affect the structural integrity in any way.
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:02 AM   #38
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I am not sure you need much area for the drain. Just a few well placed holes with some sort liner like a pipe would be good. This way the water can drain and not soak the floor. I will probably put in a drain to the right of the door since there is one there now anyway.

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Old 01-23-2012, 07:29 AM   #39
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Well I think I have found all my leaks to the right of the door. I sealed my big fixed window to the right of the door and got rid of one leak. The other leak was along the Z-channel rivet line to the right of the door. I sealed all the rivets with Parbond although I may use something else eventually as mentioned above. I found a new leak up front in the vicinity of the battery box. I will have to remove the skin at the very front next. I was able to repair some rock dents in the end cap area by pushing them out with the handle of a chisle or screw driver. I need to start putting things back together before too long or their will be no camping in the spring.

These leaks I have been chasing are after sealing the exterior window frames and the door frames. Here are some related links on window leaks and the window contruction.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454/fixed-window-leak-problems-86517.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454/speaking-of-wing-windows-86615-2.html

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