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Old 12-05-2011, 06:30 PM   #15
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Well it is raining hard here in Bama and I still have leaks. Some appear to have gone away and some are here to stay. I sealed the forward vent this weekend as well as the bathroom sewer vent and the bathroom air vent. I also removed the rear awning and caulked the rear window and reinstalled the awning bracket with caulk under it. I don't see any leaks in the rear of the tailer at all, knock on wood. I don't see any leaks on the left side front living room area. However, I still have leaks on both sides of the big fixed window to the right of the door. I have sealed the outer frame to skin interface but I have done nothing to the frame to window interface. I guess I don't understand how all the layers go together and the possible leak paths. So is it possible that the window to frame interface is my leak culprit?

Does Airstream design everything to leak between the skins? A leak you can see is one you can fix. A leak you can't see will keep causing damage till there is nothing left of your trailer.

Perry
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:48 PM   #16
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Body Seams

Perry,

I had a tough time fixing a leak at the top of a window and I would encourage you to work on all parts that may possibly be the cause. After doing any and everything else, what finally took care of mine was resealing the body seams all around the area of my window. Started from the top of the trailer and did them all the way down. The sealant on the seams didn't look bad nor did it have any visible cracks in it but that is what finally fixed it.

Good luck, I know how frustrating it can be!!
TB
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:27 PM   #17
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Adding new goop over old goop in hopes of clogging the hole rarely works. It often actually makes the situation worse. Clean the area well and start clean. Acryl-R on thin gaps, vulkem on the wider ones. One on top of the other will not double your protection it will just give you a fatter more obvious caulk line.
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:21 PM   #18
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Guess I didn't mickey mouse it enough. I did clean off the old and reapplied Acryl-R. No sealant mounds or build up. Taped 'em all off too, so no curvy lines in the sealant highway. Raining tonight, just checked it again.
Dry as a bone..........
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Old 12-06-2011, 05:30 AM   #19
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I went to bare metal. The PO has caulked over caulk and it does not work. I think the window seal has gone bad and the leak is bypassing all my hard work. If the rain lets up I will go out there and put my silver duct tape around the window and see if that stops it. If it does then I have to figure out how to seal the window to the frame again.

Perry
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Old 12-06-2011, 06:23 AM   #20
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That is excellent! I see it often that just adding more goop is the solution taken. As Top stated, just about any rivet can potentially leak. Having the interior skins out makes finding it so much easier. For those 70's folks, the trim line molding is notorious for leaks around the rivets. The 1971 in the shop right now had 12 rivets in a row leaking on the street side. Oddly, most of the seriously pesky leaks turn out to be a single, bucked rivet, high up on the body. It leaks way up high and by the time you see it, it has exited the wall 8 feet away from where it started. The leak never heads straight down, it always goes in a different direction than where it started.
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Old 12-06-2011, 06:58 AM   #21
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I am about 90% sure it is the window. There is water on either side of the window frame on the floor. I am not sure if these big fixed windows are made like the little oval shaped windows or not. I do know the seal between the panes is bad because there is water between them.

Perry
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:41 AM   #22
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My Caravel front window leaked like a sieve, it turned out to be the "AIRSTREAM" badge on the front of the trailer above the window. Just a thought.
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Old 12-06-2011, 12:09 PM   #23
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Automotive design LEDs usually means having them in circuit when the car alternator or the battery charging is active, they may seem dim when its just on battery alone, especially if its a partially discharged battery.

There is a fine line there between over-amping a LED and perhaps shortening its life but not having it dim when run on battery alone. Remember a car alternator throws out 14.7V and a 50% charged battery alone will read fLA 12.20V ~ GEL 12.35V ~ AGM 12.30V...

I just found all that out with hazard light-bar strobe modules using LEDs - when on 12V alone they are pretty wimpy. A quality LED driver may accept 9-18V input to run the lamp at some precise & constant internal voltage while a cheaper lamp may just accept line voltage but limit the current.
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Old 12-06-2011, 12:36 PM   #24
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Wabbit I think you may have posted to the wrong thread.

Perry
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Old 12-06-2011, 12:53 PM   #25
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Posts 9, 10 and 12 this thread says I didn't.
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Old 12-06-2011, 06:34 PM   #26
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I think I am going to remove the skin around the window. It looks like it will be easy to do and I can make sure where the leak is coming from that way. I can also make sure I get it stopped.

Perry
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:10 AM   #27
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I tried tapeing the bottom of the window by the door and it still leaks. I am definately going to have to remove that wall skin around the window. I don't know of another way to isolate the leak. I could have a leak somewhere else like the wing window on that side and the water is running down the C-channel and coming out that gap where the corner meets the straight wall. When I get the skins off I can tell if the water is coming strait down or if it is coming down the C-channel. The window frames have been sealed but I guess I could have a gasket leak or some rivets leaking.

Perry
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Old 01-07-2012, 01:46 PM   #28
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Ok well my leaks that I have tried so hard to fix look like they are in the Z-stringer rivets to the right of the door. That area takes a lot of punishment between being a weak area due to the door being there and the constant slamming of the door. No wonder there is a rotten place in the floor to the right of the door. I think I will put in some drains in the C-channel to get rid of water from inevitable leaks. It does not take much water to get between floor covering and the sub floor. Once there the water stays and rots everything. If you can keep the water off the floor then all the better. Dispite what others profess there is no way to totally eliminate leaks. They are going to be there. So knowing that, manage the water leaks in such as way as to render them harmless. Which means seal the C-channel gaps at the 4 corners and put in drains to drain the water below the floor. It is not hard to do on the scale of what others have done.

Perry
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