Small leak question

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by sarasafari

Awe, Bob, do you have to kill my joy?
Thanks for the links....I will continue to read on...
Sara

.....learn from others.

I covered our 63 Safari with a Camping World cover the first Winter we had it. Quite a few 'bucks wasted. Even without a shiny clearcoat the the scratches and freeze marks were a PITA to minimize, took a few years for the "patina" to return.
Moisture and dirt got under and when not flapping in the breeze it was frozen solid to the skin

Bob

[drevell7]

I recently had the floor under the bathroom replaced that had rotted at the C joint. Shawn that used to work at Windisch Airstream in Denver is now at Intermountain Coach in Colorado Springs. He replaced the shocks, packed the bearings, checked the brakes, replaced a wooden piece of the gaucho bed that had cracked and broken, replaced a toilet and seal and replaced the floor. He loosened the walls enough to get the fiberglass bathroom out and replaced the floor that way. He used marine grade plywood and sealed it. My 1968 Airstream Caravel is ready to go camping!!

[sarasafari]

Originally Posted by drevell7

I recently had the floor under the bathroom replaced that had rotted at the C joint. Shawn that used to work at Windisch Airstream in Denver is now at Intermountain Coach in Colorado Springs. He replaced the shocks, packed the bearings, checked the brakes, replaced a wooden piece of the gaucho bed that had cracked and broken, replaced a toilet and seal and replaced the floor. He loosened the walls enough to get the fiberglass bathroom out and replaced the floor that way. He used marine grade plywood and sealed it. My 1968 Airstream Caravel is ready to go camping!!

I have gutted my AS withe walls on. I've refinished all the wood,bought new appliances, st. We had a large part of rotten floor when I took everything out, and replaced it with new plywood. Thought the leak was from a window so we sealed that up tight. About 9 months later, the floor starts to slowly rot again. We took another look over and found 2 exterior rivet holes near the site of the leaks. Small enough to explain to slow leak, but enough to do major damage, again. We removed the interior panel an think we isolated those leaks to the rivet holes that were leaking into wall between the skin and the wall, soaking the fiberglass like a sponge. I've sealed the holes and am waiting to see what "springs up". Hopefully nothing, and I can on with this project. Wish I lived near someone like Shawn who could anticipate these problems better than I can

[Ridgerunner3]

Originally Posted by Sodbust

Had our first real soaker down pour rain since we got our 72 Overlander, After it stopped I went out to admire my sealing job on the windows and roof vents,. To my shock I saw on the floor in front where the inside walls meets the floor are 2 small damp spots..

The only thing on the trailer I have not sealed is the outside blue trim around the bottom of the shell,, Is there any way water could soak in behind the trim and should that be sealed also?

I also saw that I forgot to seal around the trailer plug in where the TV wire goes.. But the leaks are more to each side and not in the center where the plug is..

So where do I start looking if its not the blue trim.. >>>>????

Sodbust

I had a leak similar to the one you describe. I solved the leak by sealing the top seam of the lower aluminum rub rail with parbond. The blue trim you are speaking of , I assume is the plastic insert in the lower rubrail.

[sarasafari]

What is parbond-I was going to use vulkem on the rub rail ?

[ROBERT CROSS]

Parbond....

Bob

[sarasafari]

I just ordered two tubes of vulkem. You say parbond over the vulkem? Do you have to order it? Thanks for all your help

[perryg114]

You use Trempro-635 or similar to make fillet beads like above the rub rail (large gaps). You use Parbond for sealing small gaps like around windows and lap seams and leaky rivets.

Perry

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by sarasafari

I just ordered two tubes of vulkem. You say parbond over the vulkem? Do you have to order it? Thanks for all your help

I've used Loctite PL polyurethane, (home depot), for the black tank vent and the lower belt molding, wide gap.



Sikaflex 721 UV for the skylight.


The only sealer special ordered was the Acryl-R for narrow gap seams.

Plews gun for application.


Bob

[Steamy1]

I pulled our TT our of storage, and it seems I may have been premature in doing so. We have been receiving snow for several days now.

The snow falls at night, then it starts to melt during the day until it gets cold again, then freezes and creates icicles.

Please take a look at the picture; it shows an icicle coming from the drain port that runs to the hot water heater. However, the ice is on the outside of the tube. In otherwords, it is dripping between the tube and the caulking that surrounds it.

My question is if this is possibly coming from melting snow/ice that enters the belly pan from the belt trim. Would sealing the trim be a good place to start? When it gets warmer, I may hold a hose and see if I can narrow down the area.

I checked the 90 degree elbow in the storage compartment and all seems dry.
Thanks for any insight and advice/opinions.