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Old 07-07-2010, 02:41 PM   #1
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1968 22' Safari
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Silicone question

I have a 68 Safari that I have been restoring. Last fall I used GE Silicone II to seal seams on the roof, sides and patching jobs. Was this a mistake? Should I redo the work with a better sealant? If so, what kind do people suggest?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-07-2010, 02:45 PM   #2
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I have a 68 Safari that I have been restoring. Last fall I used GE Silicone II to seal seams on the roof, sides and patching jobs. Was this a mistake? Should I redo the work with a better sealant? If so, what kind do people suggest?

Thanks in advance.
NEVER, EVER, use silicone on the exterior.

You will now have to remove every trace of it, before you can use the correct sealers.

For small seams you can use Parbond. For large seams use Vulkem.

If you do not remove all traces of the silicone sealer, the parbond and vulkem will not bond.

Andy
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Old 07-07-2010, 02:53 PM   #3
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Yes it was a mistake.

I would leave it until it starts to leak. It will be extremely difficult to remove.
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Old 07-07-2010, 03:22 PM   #4
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You may get help from GE on the best solvent to remove it. Prep Sol works for some but not all. It may be easier to remove any visible stuff now. Otherwise I'ld leave it until you have the time to do it right.
Option 2. Paint the roof. Alot of work to do right, but no more leaks.
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Old 07-07-2010, 03:25 PM   #5
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Okay,

I have hidden in the darkness on this issue for a while now. But I have to ask, "why" is this a mistake when the sealant clearly states that it is to used on Aluminum, it has zero shrink, UV inhibitors to protect it from the sun, and it goes on clear and stay clear ...

If I may ask why is Vulkem superior, what makes Silicone inferior? As you said, it is / will be to difficult to remove now. Isn't it doing its job? Apparently all sealants fail, thus we must scrape, peel, remove and replace them at some point. Does Vulkem last few years longer than Silicone (GE says it has a 25 year life)? I have seen the corrison from Silicone - What causes this?

All right ASers I am ready for the bashing, but wanted to ask the simply question. I have made so many mistakes in my life that I can not count, but I try to learn from them so help me see the light. Oh yeah, lets keep the technical jargon to a minimum. Just trying to learn.

Thanks
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Old 07-07-2010, 03:43 PM   #6
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Okay,

I have hidden in the darkness on this issue for a while now. But I have to ask, "why" is this a mistake when the sealant clearly states that it is to used on Aluminum, it has zero shrink, UV inhibitors to protect it from the sun, and it goes on clear and stay clear ...

If I may ask why is Vulkem superior, what makes Silicone inferior? As you said, it is / will be to difficult to remove now. Isn't it doing its job? Apparently all sealants fail, thus we must scrape, peel, remove and replace them at some point. Does Vulkem last few years longer than Silicone (GE says it has a 25 year life)? I have seen the corrison from Silicone - What causes this?

All right ASers I am ready for the bashing, but wanted to ask the simply question. I have made so many mistakes in my life that I can not count, but I try to learn from them so help me see the light. Oh yeah, lets keep the technical jargon to a minimum. Just trying to learn.

Thanks
Silicone fails in time, when exposed to the sun. Then, when the proper sealer is applied over the silicone, it's a waste of time and material, as it will not adhere.

Vulkem has been used for almost 40 years, with no failures.

Hundreds if not thousands of owners will say "NO WAY" for silicone on the exterior.

Airstream, ALSO, found out the hard way.

Andy
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Old 07-07-2010, 04:32 PM   #7
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Take a look at the bottom 2 pictures of post 71 here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f185/little-girl-refurb-50967-6.html

This was a silicone job that was done to try and reseal the TV antenna. Parts of the aluminum shell are paper thin in this area now. We never found any corrosion where vulkum was used, only where they used silicone. I bought silicone remover at Ace hardware, and it worked very well. Gob it on over the silicone, wait 15 minutes, and scrape off with a plastic scraper. Repeat if needed for really thick areas.

Chris
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Old 11-12-2010, 10:37 AM   #8
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I recently installed two new Fantastic vents on my 1989 Excello. I used GE Silicone sealer on both. I then went to work sealing all windows and other suspicious spots; however, I used Vulkem exclusinvely. Now I am preparing to remove the vents I just installed, remove the silicone and then reinstall with Vulkem. I guess I learned too late but fortunately in time before I wnet to sealing seams.Personally Someone tell me to leave the vents alone and that it is not worth going through the substantial exercise again.
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Old 11-12-2010, 03:47 PM   #9
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I assume it is the acetic acid in silicone that is not good for the aluminum skin.
That said, there are structural silicone sealants that are used all the time for installing glass in aluminum frames for commercial store fronts and high rises.
Obviously you don't get that type of silicone at Lowe's or HD.
Al
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Old 11-12-2010, 04:44 PM   #10
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Having seen pictures on the forum here of how silicone can eat at aluminum skin, I don't think folks will dissuade you from re-doing your vents. I think it's worth the effort.
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:18 AM   #11
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Andy is right again. Take it from a retired general contractor and don't even use it around your house! For residential use an NP1 sealant at the very least, but that's off subject.
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