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Old 07-26-2009, 08:49 AM   #1
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Should my windows have weep holes

I am the new purchaser of a '73 Souverign 31'. Several of the large opening side windows are holding water in the frames. Should there be weep holes to drain the water that gets by the gaskets. Also, speaking of gaskets, mine are cracked up. Do these just glue on? Where is the best place to get them and what adhesive to use? How does the glass and frame come off the camper to work on them easier? Thanks.
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Old 07-26-2009, 09:23 AM   #2
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It sounds like the water is accumulating between the panes in the double pane windows. The windows are supposed to be sealed units. This is a common problem. 3 solutions are (1) Take apart the windows and replace the gaskets (not for the faint of heart) (2) Break out the inner pane and use the window as a single pane (3) replace the window $$$.

If the cracked gaskets you are talking about are the black ones between the window and frame, that is an easier problem. Vintage Trailer Supply and Inland RV sell the replacement gasket. Take off the old gasket and clean the area. Put on new gaskets with 3m Super Weatherstrip Adhesive.

The windows are mounted on the frame with a simple J hinge. Detach the openers and raise the window to about 90 degrees. It will come right off.
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Old 07-26-2009, 09:27 AM   #3
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I am the new purchaser of a '73 Souverign 31'. Several of the large opening side windows are holding water in the frames. Should there be weep holes to drain the water that gets by the gaskets. Also, speaking of gaskets, mine are cracked up. Do these just glue on? Where is the best place to get them and what adhesive to use? How does the glass and frame come off the camper to work on them easier? Thanks.
Weep holes are used on Airstream motor homes, only.

Removing the windows is easy.

Remove the lift arms from the sides of the window.

Then, from the outside, raise the bottom of the window upward so that it's almost vertical. The window will drop out of the "double J" hinge.

Lay the windows on a blanket or beach towel, on a work bench or table. With a putty knife or just a knife, remove most of the old rubber. That will take about 1 minute. Then, using an electric drill with about a 3 inch wire wheel in it, burnish off the rest of the old gasket. CAUTION: Have someone hold the window when your doing that operation.

Cut the new gasket about an inch too long. Apply a bead of "super weatherstrip adhesive" to the backside of the window and to the backside of the gasket. When that's dry to the touch, which takes about 7 to 8 minutes, depending on the temperature, start applying the gasket to the window frame, starting at the center of the bottom of the window. DO NOT stretch the gasket.

Stop the attachment about 2 inches or so from the other end of the gasket. Carefully lay it in place, but avoid the adhesives from touching. Cut that end of the gasket about 1/4 of an inch too long.

Apply adhesive to the 2 ends of the gasket. Again, wait a few minutes. Then install the loose end gasket so that it mates with the other end, and press it in place.

Reinstall the window, close it and lock it. After about 24 hours, open the window and apply a lot of "silicone spray" to the gasket. Don't be bashful, but pour it on.

Again close the window, After a few hours, open the window and wipe the surplus "silicone spray" off with a cotton rag.

Repeat the silicone spray once a year or so. Doing so, will preserve the gasketsrfor many years.

Another "CAUTION". Have another person help you with the front and rear windows. Very carefully engage the hinges when reinstalling those two windows. But, before you attempt to lower those two windows, pop the center of the window hinge with your fist, to make sure that the entire hinge is engaged. Slowly, lower those windows making "absoluely sure" that the hinges are properly engaged.

The original gasket has been deemed, inadequate.

We tested a "D" shaped gasket, that's hollow, that is far superior to the original double flared gasket, and use it in our shop.

It will take you just under one hour, to complete each window.

Check the gaskets on the entrance door, as well as the access compartments.

Hopefully, you have a ladder. Check the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets. You will find them horribly cracked, since they only last 2 to 3 years.

Lastly, check the gaskets on the ceiling vent covers. They should also be replaced.

Andy
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Old 07-26-2009, 09:39 AM   #4
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What should the gasket for the sewer vents look like. I did look and it appears there is the pipe end just below the aluminium body and a screen on top. Would that vent be down inside around the pipe or should it be at the top when it would make the most sense? How are those done? I need to weatherproof the shell to stop the water before going any further.
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Old 07-26-2009, 09:51 AM   #5
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What should the gasket for the sewer vents look like. I did look and it appears there is the pipe end just below the aluminium body and a screen on top. Would that vent be down inside around the pipe or should it be at the top when it would make the most sense? How are those done? I need to weatherproof the shell to stop the water before going any further.
Remove the metal cover by taking the 4 screws out.

You will find that gaskets cracked where it surrounds the pipe.

A new gasket and screen is installed, using Vulkem sealer with it.

Andy
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:09 PM   #6
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We just received the "D" Gasket from you. Is it symmetric? How close to the edge of the frame do you place the gasket? Any pictures or sketches?
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:55 PM   #7
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you should call or email Inlandrv for a response.
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:23 PM   #8
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You are right, but I found another thread that contained detailed instructions from Andy. I also found a thread that had pictures of the D weatherstrip. Questions previously answered by Andy...I just hadn't looked hard enough.

Thanks.
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Old 09-18-2009, 05:57 AM   #9
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You are right, but I found another thread that contained detailed instructions from Andy. I also found a thread that had pictures of the D weatherstrip. Questions previously answered by Andy...I just hadn't looked hard enough.

Thanks.
Would you please be so kind as to post links to the threads you refer to?

Thanks in advance,
Aage
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:57 PM   #10
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There were no sketches. I did replace the stripping on all but 2 windows today. The D Strip completely fills the space. The D Strip is symmetric.

The instructions are in the link below:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...g-16315-3.html
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:50 PM   #11
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Thanks!
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:20 PM   #12
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Spent the weekend in my 69 Overlander with all window weatherstripping replaced. We were in the middle of the monsoons northeast of Atlanta. No leaks.

Thanks Andy!
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