Seam sealing - again

[Fyrzowt]

I looked through a lot of posts on sealing seams, parbond vs vulkem vs sikaflex.
My question is this:
I have a polished and waxed '72 GT. I assume I need to clean the seams out prior to applying any sealer. With what, and how do I get the wax out of the cracks/seams? Is cleaning even needed or does this stuff seal OK going over the top of wax.
Thanks,
Dave

[Aerowood]

No sealents that I know of will seal over wax. Most autobody shop suppliers sell a wax and grease remover that is made for this application.

[Fyrzowt]

If Parbond is self-leveling, does it create application problems on vertical surfaces, ie - will it run?

[wahoonc]

Fryzwot,
The Parbond is not really self leveling to the point it will run. If it has something to adhere to it will stick. You can also buy industrial sized injectors to shoot Vulkem up in the seams. If you have a lot of wax and crap built up in your seams, either a pressure washer (not my choice BTW) a dremel tool or dental picks will clean the stuff out. Then use an air nozzle to blow the loose stuff away prior to sealing. I have not had any problems with the panel seams on mine. Most of my leaks have been traced to window frames, Vista Views, dead bolts, plumbing stacks, TV antenna and missing/loose rivets (I think that is all...)

Aaron

[Fyrzowt]

Thanks to both of you for the quick replies, I'm always learning here on the forums.
Dave

[Tom Nugler]

Originally Posted by Aerowood

No sealents that I know of will seal over wax. Most autobody shop suppliers sell a wax and grease remover that is made for this application.

I've used this stuff for it's intended application a few times and it appears to be just glorified mineral spirits.
I'd dip a toothbrush in a small jar of mineral spirits and lightly scrub the seams. Put a paper towel down to catch the run-off as I'm pretty sure that it will soften the Vulkem.
Saw a neat trick for appling the sealer posted here. Some creative gentleman laid down a strip of blue painters masking tape next to the seam. This kept the goo from smearing on the body.
Just a thought,

Tom

[Ganglin]

Another product to consider is Alcoa Gutter Seal. It wicks into seams and has aluminum flakes in it so it looks natural against the skin. You can get it at Vintage Trailer Supply but the shipping is almost as much as the product. Hesitate to say this but I found it here in Columbus for $6.25 a tube and no shipping charge. Can buy it by the case - 24 tubes. Apply it with a syringe and back wipe across the seam.

[Dan Clayton]

OK I have my 900 or so olympic rivets installed. There were sealed on the outside with vulkem,but what can I use on the inside? were the rivet body is exposed on the inside of the outside wall. I tried just covering the body of the rivet with the vulkem, but there is a few that still want to leak that I will Have to go back and replace, but it's down the road that I am concerned about. Should I cover them with under coating, or how about RV water membrain, the liquid type like what is used to cover RV roofs, or is there any other product that will seal the rivet both from water leakage and to help the rivet from working itself loose?

[Ganglin]

I'm not a rivet expert by any stretch of the imaginaion. However, from what I've read you don't seal the rivets with anything. I've done a few replacements - none of ours are sealed - outside or in.

Are you sure the seams aren't leaking and hitting the rivets as a leak point.

Others here can surely help you. Good luck.

[Aerowood]

I removed about half the rivets from the lower aft most panel to install some support to the aft end of my 71 Globetrotter for some floor replacment I was surprised to find absoluty no sealent in the seam, Just a small fillet seal on the interior that missed most of the joint. Most likly part of the cause for the repairs I'm now doing to the skin and the floorpanel. See my post labeled "skin corrosion" for the results. Again, I'm not impressed with the Quality Control of Airstream.