All the seals around the doors and hatches need replacing on my 71' international. I know the original seals are available, but has any tried using the weather stripping available from Home Depot,etc made by Frostking . The stuff that is various rectangular shapes and comes in 10' strips??? I know the original seal on the door has hardened and is interferin the door.
Airstream has done considerable research as to which gasket works best, for the doors and windows. Any flat gasket will not work as well as the "D" or double flaired gasket. It compresses in a very different manner and will cause voids in the seal. Should you tighten the window locks to compensate for the flat gasket, you will probably break the latches.
Home Depot materials are for homes, not RV's. Homes don't shake, vibrate or twist as your Airstream does.
Using non standard weather materials on any Airstream product usually results in very poor performance, over the long haul, as well as water leaks that cause further damage. The small cost of the proper gasket is an investment in trouble free usage.
Using the wrong gasket on the entrance door, will usually result in water leaks, AND most importantly, as in the case of a cast metal door frame, break it since you will have to "SLAM" the door when you use a "flat" gasket, that compresses very differently from the proper gasket.
Sometimes saving a few pennies, will result in hundreds of dollars, or more, of damage when a sustitute or "I think it will work" product is used.
Not worth the risk.
We repair coaches every day, that have had used sustitute products. Amazingly, after 36 years, I have yet to find any degree of consistancy in doing so, that has not resulted in damage.
A good example, is not "properly" balancing the running gear. Andy
Andy
Thanks for the advise Jim. Your trailer looks in good shape I'm not trying to save money. The old seal on the door is preventing the door from fully closing. It has hardened and I thought a hard seal would do the same. The only seals on the trailer that I see are double flair, I'm not familar with any D seal. Island RV has some input and he suggests using Factory specs.
We replaced the door seal on our current project 65 Globetrotter with the OEM double flaired gasket weather strip. It closes and seals like butter. The original 35 year old gasket was so hard and flat that I did not realize it was flared material until we took it off and looked at it edge wise.
We used 3M weatherstripping contact adhesive to install it. This worked real well. It is a little trouble to use as it is in a tube, but if the directions are followed it will attach and last you many years. Take your time as once the 2 surfaces touch, it is attached.
Two days after installing the new door gasket, we received 4 inches of driving rain in 2 hours. Not a drop leaked in the door way. Prior to this, we would have water all over the place.
-BobbyWright
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Andy,
What are the dimensions of part number 45295?
I am concerned that since my door may be out of alignment, 45295 may not fully seal the gap between the door and the frame. I realize that I may have to have the door professionally reshapped, however I am searching for an interim solution.
It's 3/8 wide and 1/2 inch high. Reshaping your door that has a cast metal frame usually requires cutting the frame and then rewelding it back together, with the proper shape.
Bending a cast frame cannot be done. If you attempt to do it, it will break.
I read your statement and, wondered If you remember just of the top of your head..When did A/S started to use cast door frame?
Do they still use cast frame??
The reason I asks, is that..in my 84 Sovereign manual..A/S talks abt using a 2x4 to bend the door for proper fitting.
BTW, thanks for that input abt door gasket sealing..I still have my original door seal..Just massaged it with pure silicone.It should last for a few more years..lol
ciao
Airstream first used the "cast" entrance door frame in 1965.
It was last used in 1973.
1964 on back used several extrusions to make up the door. When bent, it usually sheared some rivets as well.
From 1974 on up, the entrance door frame again is an extrusion. It can be reshaped to some degree, carefully.
However, the interior metal should first be removed, reshape the frame, and then reinstalling the sheet metal, but using different rivet holes, initially. After the new rivets in the new holes are installed, and you are satisfied with the fit, install rivets in the original holes.
Use CAUTION so that you do not break the extrusion at the entrance door lock or at the dead bolt. To do so will require plating the extrusion and/or welding it back together.
I have a question for an expert. I have been looking for replacement window glass seal on my 1953 Overlander for about 5 years now with no luck.
I am not talking about any gasket that seals the entire swing out window to the trailer, but very narrow grey colored trim that seals the window to the aluminum window frame on the outside of the window.
Is this available? What do other restorers use? I don't want to have to just calk it with something.
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Seals and weatherstripping.
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