Sealants Summary ...

[sandlapper]

This is a great thread, I have been following it from the beginning. Nice work TinTin.

Nothing I can add except that most chemical strippers contain wax or paraffin that skims over to prevent evaporation of the product before it can do it's job. The residual wax might be a problem for adhesion of the new sealant unless washed off with a good clean solvent, perhaps lacquer thinner.

[Danny Bell]

Very informative thread ! Until this thread I hadn't given freshening up ALL the seals. Our trailer has a variety of different sealants on it from P.O.'s. A gray pliable sealant around the windows, except one has a very hard white (Sikaflex I presume) around it. A very thin gray on all seams and a hard silver type around the a/c and vents. All of my rivets are tight. Other than a small leak around the Astradome vent/skylight, we have had no leaks.

Questions...
If I re-seal everything now, what's going to happen when I polish the trailer next summer ? Should I seal after the polishing or is it a mute point ?

Thanks,
Danny

[crispyboy]

Originally Posted by Danny Bell

Questions...
If I re-seal everything now, what's going to happen when I polish the trailer next summer ? Should I seal after the polishing or is it a mute point ?

Thanks,
Danny

If I was going to polish I would remove the old caulking, polish then recaulk everything. I think the job would look better in the end.

[painterfam]

Originally Posted by reinergirl

I used Citrastrip to take off all the black glue and then used Trempro 635 to
"paint" all the seams I could reach.

I thought someone said that the Trempro 635 turns to dust....is that just when it's exposed to light?
I am lost on this. I'm assuming that the seams are to be sealed from the exterior. But is there something that is supposed to go where the black tar went? Or do I leave the rivets and where the frame, and the inside of the exterior skin meet, exposed.
This is such an informative thread! Thanks for everyone's contributions!

[cwf]

I put the Acryl with pump into a ziplock bag along with wire in the spout tip. Always works!

[Cardinal283]

Has anyone used Dymonic 100 from Tremco? The local Tremco distributor said that it's like vulkem but it has more flex. According to the tube it has 100% stretch and 50% compression before failure. If I'm reading it correctly.

[exallen]

I see where sikaflex (not silkaflex) 221 gray is available from Amazon, but provided by Orange County Airstream.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by exallen

I see where sikaflex (not silkaflex) 221 gray is available from Amazon, but provided by Orange County Airstream.

When I was at the Airstream facility they had sikaflex 221. Some tubes are marked "black" while others had no designation. Is the sikaflex 221 default color gray?

[lewster]

No, you have to look at the plunger end to find the color on some tubes of SikaFlex.


Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center
Lifeline Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357

[deaun99]

I google sikaflex and homedepot has this product listed. Is this the same sikaflex 221 that everyone has been talking about?

Sikaflex 10 fl. oz. Crack Sealant-427706 - The Home Depot

[lewster]

NO! The only SikaFkex product discussed here as a sealant/adhesive is 221. Any other Sika product is not the same and has different properties.


Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center
Lifeline Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357

[KJRitchie]

I suspect one or both of my door hinges may be leaking. What do I use to seal? I have Adseal gray and Acryl-R. Do I need the remove one hinge at a time to perform this job or do I just need to remove the mounting scores one at a time and coat with Adseal and screw back in? I guess I just peel off the silver trim cover to access the screws that mount the hinge?

Thanks

Kelvin

[dznf0g]

Kelvin, If you loosen those screws, you will be performing surgery on the interior skins to get to the nuts that hold the hinges on. I wouldn't even tempt myself to touch those screws. I would clean the hinge/skin joint very well, tape off a thin gap at the joint and use either Acryl-R or Parbond. I use parbond for this type of joint.

[KJRitchie]

Do those screws ever need to be checked for tightness? Will the nuts inside turn or do they have lock washers?

Thanks

Kelvin

[Siegmann]

Kelvin, there are several posts on this problem. Here is one of mine:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...ge-122387.html

There are several others, with even more info, just search for them.

[truckasaurus]

kind of skimmed the last page but today I was picking up some stuff and the vendor had Vulkem 116 but they also had a BASF product which they claimed was the same, so I picked up a tube to check out. Here's the link in case anyone else has tried it already.

MasterSeal NP 1

[Siegmann]

Truckasurus, I used a high performance polyurethane sealant by BASF called Sonolastic NP1 around my wheel wells three years ago. So far it seems as durable as the original factory Vulkem/Sikaflex.

[truckasaurus]

Cool. That's the same stuff (just rebranded I believe). Nice to find something local to me at last.

[sheriff1]

What is the proper cleaner before applying sikaflex? I KNOW it's not alcohol!
Thanks!


2015 F350 CC 4X4 6.7 Diesel
2010 27FB Silver Cloud "The Silver Spoon"

[sheriff1]

More research says acitone?


2015 F350 CC 4X4 6.7 Diesel
2010 27FB Silver Cloud "The Silver Spoon"