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Old 04-17-2015, 08:15 AM   #113
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I just wish I had seen the warnings before I went about cleaning a bunch of areas on the back pano's with it. I have now switched though since I started caulking the roof and did my solar. I just hope the pano windows stay fine. I'm starting to be a fan of the Silkaflex.
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Old 04-18-2015, 09:50 AM   #114
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My belly pan is held together with Sikaflex. I love that stuff. It's not coming off. Ever
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Old 04-18-2015, 12:54 PM   #115
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I like the SikaFlex, and have also used "Quikrete® Polyurethane Non-Sag Sealant". I sent them an email asking about compatibility with aluminum and their response was, "Quikrete® Polyurethane Non-Sag Sealant is compatible with aluminum."

Makes sense.... it's also used to seal around aluminum-framed windows and building materials.

It worked well between the frame and body panels on our Avion. The non-sag properties are very handy.


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Old 04-18-2015, 03:20 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by belikethefox View Post
Tin Tin: On your most recent list, you have multiple options per section.

Are they all comparable/interchangeable?
Sorry BLTF, only now noticed your post. Regarding interchangeability, my opinion would be that they are. Of course it's good practice to remove as much of the old caulk as possible before adding new.

Regarding compatibility, they are largely polyurethane caulks, so in general they should be compatible. Can't vouch for that though. I have a few favourites that I have been able to source locally or online, and tend to stick with them. I use Parbond a LOT, like the way it goes on and the small bead.
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Old 04-18-2015, 04:37 PM   #117
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Airstream Store Sealant Kit

I noticed the the Airstream Store the sealant kit was on sale so figured it would be a good start to my sealant collection.

28430W – 16 oz can of Acryl-R Seam Sealer and Applicator Head. Use to seal all metal to metal seams, including but not limited to, segment seams, sides and bottom of riveted frame windows, compartment door frames, marker lights, and tail lights; any where a fine bead of gray sealant is required.

365330-01 – 10 oz tube of AdSeal Premium Quality Sealant Adhesive – White. Use to seal all exterior roof components (on travel trailers with white roof sheets)

365330-03 – 10 oz tube of AdSeal Premium Quality Sealant Adhesive – Gray. Use to seal eyebrows of riveted frame windows and main door; any where a thicker bead of gray sealant is required.

360180-04 – 10 oz tube of Sikaflex 221 Multi-Purpose Polyurethane Sealant – Black. Use to seal below the rubrail on trailers 1984-present with pewter gray underbelly, also on Safari black trailer windows.

When using the Acryl-R applicator how do you clean the applicator after use?

Kelvin
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Old 04-19-2015, 07:49 AM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
When using the Acryl-R applicator how do you clean the applicator after use?

Kelvin
Kelvin,

I have had a can that I have been using for at least four years. All I ever have done when finished using it is to clean off any external product and then stick a piece of wire in the end of the nozzle. It has always worked immediately next time I used it.

If I remember, the gun originally came with a short wire, maybe an inch long, with a loop on the end. That got lost somewhere along the line and I now have a piece os stainless wire several inches long that I use.

I don't think you will have any problem.

Brian.
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Old 04-19-2015, 08:10 AM   #119
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I just use a rubber-gloved finger for smoothing. No solvents ever.


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Ditto....after taping off. With Parbond you have to smooth just a couple feet at a time....quickly...it skins over rapidly. Remove tape quickly as well.
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Old 04-20-2015, 02:24 AM   #120
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I used Citrastrip to take off all the black glue and then used Trempro 635 to
"paint" all the seams I could reach.
I am at this point after removing interior skins on a 1958 Airstream. This seams haha seems like an extreme to remove the black spray on goo. While I understand starting with a clean surface is for better adhesion, can the Trempro 635 be applied over the top?

While I don't want to cut corners, this is a lot of work! Is there a seam sealer that can be applied over the black stuff? Is removal (Citrastrip) a method that most here use for seam sealing, and over the backside of buck or olympic rivets?
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Old 04-20-2015, 04:47 AM   #121
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This is a great thread, I have been following it from the beginning. Nice work TinTin.

Nothing I can add except that most chemical strippers contain wax or paraffin that skims over to prevent evaporation of the product before it can do it's job. The residual wax might be a problem for adhesion of the new sealant unless washed off with a good clean solvent, perhaps lacquer thinner.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:38 PM   #122
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Very informative thread ! Until this thread I hadn't given freshening up ALL the seals. Our trailer has a variety of different sealants on it from P.O.'s. A gray pliable sealant around the windows, except one has a very hard white (Sikaflex I presume) around it. A very thin gray on all seams and a hard silver type around the a/c and vents. All of my rivets are tight. Other than a small leak around the Astradome vent/skylight, we have had no leaks.

Questions...
If I re-seal everything now, what's going to happen when I polish the trailer next summer ? Should I seal after the polishing or is it a mute point ?

Thanks,
Danny
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Old 05-18-2015, 02:06 PM   #123
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Questions...
If I re-seal everything now, what's going to happen when I polish the trailer next summer ? Should I seal after the polishing or is it a mute point ?

Thanks,
Danny
If I was going to polish I would remove the old caulking, polish then recaulk everything. I think the job would look better in the end.
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Old 05-28-2015, 05:42 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reinergirl View Post
I used Citrastrip to take off all the black glue and then used Trempro 635 to
"paint" all the seams I could reach.
I thought someone said that the Trempro 635 turns to dust....is that just when it's exposed to light?
I am lost on this. I'm assuming that the seams are to be sealed from the exterior. But is there something that is supposed to go where the black tar went? Or do I leave the rivets and where the frame, and the inside of the exterior skin meet, exposed.
This is such an informative thread! Thanks for everyone's contributions!
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Old 05-28-2015, 06:21 PM   #125
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I put the Acryl with pump into a ziplock bag along with wire in the spout tip. Always works!
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Old 06-15-2015, 01:17 PM   #126
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Has anyone used Dymonic 100 from Tremco? The local Tremco distributor said that it's like vulkem but it has more flex. According to the tube it has 100% stretch and 50% compression before failure. If I'm reading it correctly. Click image for larger version

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