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Old 02-03-2015, 08:54 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
3M 5200 quick cure a great bonding & sealant. Used it on the replacement skylight, strong bond but stays pliable.

Regular 5200 for an even stronger bond. I have used it on both the boat & AS, 48hrs to tack, 5-7 days to cure. I can see it working great for panel replacement sealing.

Bob

I made the mistake of using Sikkaflex to install a new Maxxim skylight.

It developed a minor leak between the two domed sections and Maxxim kindly provided me with a replacement skylight - but now, I find I cannot get the old one off, it is stuck firmly in place!

Guess I should have used butyl tape or something

Luckily the condensation has evaporated in the hot Arizona sun, and not yet
re-appeared. Looks like the factory deal between the two domed layers failed I can see that the factory sealant between the flanges of the domed layers has bulged out of place.)

I have added caulking to all the areas around the skylight where I think water might be able find its way in between the domes! At least it never did leak into the trailer so it is mainly a cosmetic thing.

I suspect sooner or later it may leak again and although it is only cosmetic I will want to remove the defective skylight and install the new skylight assembly I was given.

At this point, unless anyone has any brainwaves, I think my only solution to remove the old skylight will be to carefully cut the welded aluminum skylight frame into small sections with a grinder and remove it piece by piece.

I may leave the flat horizontal portion of the frame that is stuck down the trailer's skylight curb in place.

I would clean up the cut edges of the aluminum, then just drop the new skylight on top of it - but I won't use Sikkaflex next time!

Brian.
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Old 02-04-2015, 02:09 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
I made the mistake of using Sikkaflex to install a new Maxxim skylight.

It developed a minor leak between the two domed sections and Maxxim kindly provided me with a replacement skylight - but now, I find I cannot get the old one off, it is stuck firmly in place!

Guess I should have used butyl tape or something

Luckily the condensation has evaporated in the hot Arizona sun, and not yet
re-appeared. Looks like the factory deal between the two domed layers failed I can see that the factory sealant between the flanges of the domed layers has bulged out of place.)

I have added caulking to all the areas around the skylight where I think water might be able find its way in between the domes! At least it never did leak into the trailer so it is mainly a cosmetic thing.

I suspect sooner or later it may leak again and although it is only cosmetic I will want to remove the defective skylight and install the new skylight assembly I was given.

At this point, unless anyone has any brainwaves, I think my only solution to remove the old skylight will be to carefully cut the welded aluminum skylight frame into small sections with a grinder and remove it piece by piece.

I may leave the flat horizontal portion of the frame that is stuck down the trailer's skylight curb in place.

I would clean up the cut edges of the aluminum, then just drop the new skylight on top of it - but I won't use Sikkaflex next time!

Brian.
Bummer!

Moral: don't use SikaFlex on anything that you might want to remove at a later date........it doesn't come off unless cut, chiseled, scraped or sanded. There is NO SOLVENT once cured.
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Old 02-04-2015, 08:12 AM   #87
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Brian,

I have used a length of thin stainless wire to cut thru cured Sika 721 and Loctite PL. If you can get under the edge give it a try.

Worked well on the BT roof vent.

Bob
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Old 02-06-2015, 08:28 PM   #88
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What would one use on the inside of the exterior skin to seal the seams? Basically replacing the black tar like goo that's on all of the seams and rivets.
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Old 02-06-2015, 09:54 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Brian,

I have used a length of thin stainless wire to cut thru cured Sika 721 and Loctite PL. If you can get under the edge give it a try.

Worked well on the BT roof vent.

Bob
I would think something like a wire saw would work ..... Like what they use to dehorn cows.

Here's just the first link I found, I'm sure there are other options
Dehorning Wire Saw - Disbudding - Kid Raising - Products
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Old 02-06-2015, 09:57 PM   #90
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What would one use on the inside of the exterior skin to seal the seams? Basically replacing the black tar like goo that's on all of the seams and rivets.
I used Citrastrip to take off all the black glue and then used Trempro 635 to
"paint" all the seams I could reach.
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Old 02-07-2015, 09:53 AM   #91
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(added 3M 5200 to roof sealants)

For wheel wells/underbody:

Vulkem 116
Trempro 635 Grey
Sikaflex 221 Black (use Eternabond spray cleaner to prepare surface)
Adseal Premium Quality Sealant Grey

Roof:

Sikaflex 221 White (for roof seams, seals and bonds. Use Eternabond spray cleaner to prepare surface)
Sikaflex 715 (around fans, vents, skylights ... self-levelling)
Adseal Premium Quality Sealant White
Dicor self-levelling sealant
EternaBond® AlumiBond (alum. backed sealing tape, 2", 3", 4", and 6" wide)
Lexel™ Clear
3M 5200 (seals and bonds, comes in quick and slow cure varieties)

Windows/Trim/Rubrail/Exterior Lights:

Sikaflex 221 Grey (seals and bonds. Use Eternabond spray cleaner to prepare surface)
Parbond Grey or Clear (small hand tubes, prep and clean-up use cosmoline remover)
Trempro 635 Grey
Loctite® PL® S40 Polyurethane Window Door and Siding Sealant
Lexel™ Clear

Small seams (between aluminum panels):

Acryl-R (available in cans from Airstream store. Use applicator or disposable syringes to apply)
Aluminum Pigmented Gutterseal

Rivet sealer:

Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure
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Old 03-21-2015, 06:19 PM   #92
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I read the whole thread and firstly, thank you. This is immensely helpful. I'm new to the Airstream community and hugely impressed with y'all's attention to detail and OCD-like precision and thoughtfulness. Thank y'all!

To that end, I can't seem to decipher that if there's more than one product under each subheading, are they interchangeable? As in: could either one work just as well? Would be nice to make a process for each with some pictures with corresponding numbers so we know what solvents/tools/clean up we need for each and where, exactly, each one is used and why.

I'd be willing to help to that end!

Thanks so much! 😊
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Old 03-21-2015, 09:08 PM   #93
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Mostly related to this thread, because I was getting ready to order some Captain Tolley's.
But I got up on the roof of my 17 year old rig, and with a cotton Q-Tip, deposited a puddle of water on every single rivet. Took me over 1/2 hr, but it was cold out, so the water did not evaporate. Went back and looked at them. Not a single one sucked in the water!

Do you think I have no leaks, or did the cold temperature "tighten" up the rivets?
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Old 03-22-2015, 11:35 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siegmann View Post
Mostly related to this thread, because I was getting ready to order some Captain Tolley's.
But I got up on the roof of my 17 year old rig, and with a cotton Q-Tip, deposited a puddle of water on every single rivet. Took me over 1/2 hr, but it was cold out, so the water did not evaporate. Went back and looked at them. Not a single one sucked in the water!

Do you think I have no leaks, or did the cold temperature "tighten" up the rivets?
Siegmann, unless it was at or below the freezing point you could likely consider that you have no leaks on the roof. The consistency is about the same but it looks like skim milk when you put it down. It does dry clear.

When I used the captain tolleys I generally found that if any rivet did drink it up repeatedly, that rivet needed to be replaced.
If you can get your fingernail under the rivet head captain Tolley's will not solve the problem not matter how much you feed it, it just keeps disappearing into the trailer shell. I went over my rivets about four to six times at 20 min intervals on a warm day and if any still wanted a drink at that point I pulled and replaced. I used a fine modeling paintbrush so I was putting down less than your q-tip would each time.
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Old 03-22-2015, 11:51 AM   #95
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Thanks. I'll hold off on the Tolley's, and won't bother to check the rivets for another year or so.
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Old 03-22-2015, 12:40 PM   #96
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This has to be one of the best threads, considering the issues that have been reported with leaks. Now, since this is my first dance, having just purchased my 03 classic last fall, I want to buy the products recommended for roof and windows etc and do the whole deal from rivets to lights and seams. Is there one good source for buying these items so I can avoid shipping on small orders. When I get the silver baby out of the hangar where it's stored in the next few days, I want to be ready...right down to the moisture meter. I will have to choose the products and order asap. I've spent all winter with you guys and have pent up longing to start. Thanks a bunch folks.
Dave
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:35 AM   #97
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Tin Tin: On your most recent list, you have multiple options per section.

Are they all comparable/interchangeable?
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Old 04-12-2015, 04:20 PM   #98
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I read and reread this thread a number of times and finally started this weekend on my 95 Excella.

The PO had mostly Parbond along the rub rail and most other places. He did the job without masking, looked pretty bad. The preparation is the most time consuming. I used Sikaflex 221 gray.

What I learned from the first day was to remove the masking quickly, in my case about 10 minutes. Waited longer yesterday and the results were better today.

I still have more work but confidence is high and the project will continue.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.
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