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Old 04-20-2015, 03:47 AM   #121
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This is a great thread, I have been following it from the beginning. Nice work TinTin.

Nothing I can add except that most chemical strippers contain wax or paraffin that skims over to prevent evaporation of the product before it can do it's job. The residual wax might be a problem for adhesion of the new sealant unless washed off with a good clean solvent, perhaps lacquer thinner.
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:38 PM   #122
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Very informative thread ! Until this thread I hadn't given freshening up ALL the seals. Our trailer has a variety of different sealants on it from P.O.'s. A gray pliable sealant around the windows, except one has a very hard white (Sikaflex I presume) around it. A very thin gray on all seams and a hard silver type around the a/c and vents. All of my rivets are tight. Other than a small leak around the Astradome vent/skylight, we have had no leaks.

Questions...
If I re-seal everything now, what's going to happen when I polish the trailer next summer ? Should I seal after the polishing or is it a mute point ?

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Old 05-18-2015, 01:06 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny Bell View Post

Questions...
If I re-seal everything now, what's going to happen when I polish the trailer next summer ? Should I seal after the polishing or is it a mute point ?

Thanks,
Danny
If I was going to polish I would remove the old caulking, polish then recaulk everything. I think the job would look better in the end.
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Old 05-28-2015, 04:42 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reinergirl View Post
I used Citrastrip to take off all the black glue and then used Trempro 635 to
"paint" all the seams I could reach.
I thought someone said that the Trempro 635 turns to dust....is that just when it's exposed to light?
I am lost on this. I'm assuming that the seams are to be sealed from the exterior. But is there something that is supposed to go where the black tar went? Or do I leave the rivets and where the frame, and the inside of the exterior skin meet, exposed.
This is such an informative thread! Thanks for everyone's contributions!
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Old 05-28-2015, 05:21 PM   #125
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I put the Acryl with pump into a ziplock bag along with wire in the spout tip. Always works!
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Old 06-15-2015, 12:17 PM   #126
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Has anyone used Dymonic 100 from Tremco? The local Tremco distributor said that it's like vulkem but it has more flex. According to the tube it has 100% stretch and 50% compression before failure. If I'm reading it correctly. Click image for larger version

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Old 06-16-2015, 11:12 AM   #127
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I see where sikaflex (not silkaflex) 221 gray is available from Amazon, but provided by Orange County Airstream.
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:24 AM   #128
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I see where sikaflex (not silkaflex) 221 gray is available from Amazon, but provided by Orange County Airstream.
When I was at the Airstream facility they had sikaflex 221. Some tubes are marked "black" while others had no designation. Is the sikaflex 221 default color gray?
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Old 06-16-2015, 02:36 PM   #129
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No, you have to look at the plunger end to find the color on some tubes of SikaFlex.


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Old 07-10-2015, 09:45 AM   #130
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Sikaflex 221

I google sikaflex and homedepot has this product listed. Is this the same sikaflex 221 that everyone has been talking about?

Sikaflex 10 fl. oz. Crack Sealant-427706 - The Home Depot
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Old 07-10-2015, 01:06 PM   #131
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NO! The only SikaFkex product discussed here as a sealant/adhesive is 221. Any other Sika product is not the same and has different properties.


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Old 07-12-2015, 06:08 AM   #132
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I suspect one or both of my door hinges may be leaking. What do I use to seal? I have Adseal gray and Acryl-R. Do I need the remove one hinge at a time to perform this job or do I just need to remove the mounting scores one at a time and coat with Adseal and screw back in? I guess I just peel off the silver trim cover to access the screws that mount the hinge?

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Old 07-12-2015, 07:23 AM   #133
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Kelvin, If you loosen those screws, you will be performing surgery on the interior skins to get to the nuts that hold the hinges on. I wouldn't even tempt myself to touch those screws. I would clean the hinge/skin joint very well, tape off a thin gap at the joint and use either Acryl-R or Parbond. I use parbond for this type of joint.
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Old 07-12-2015, 07:51 AM   #134
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Do those screws ever need to be checked for tightness? Will the nuts inside turn or do they have lock washers?

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Old 07-12-2015, 02:08 PM   #135
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Kelvin, there are several posts on this problem. Here is one of mine:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...ge-122387.html

There are several others, with even more info, just search for them.
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Old 07-15-2015, 08:25 PM   #136
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kind of skimmed the last page but today I was picking up some stuff and the vendor had Vulkem 116 but they also had a BASF product which they claimed was the same, so I picked up a tube to check out. Here's the link in case anyone else has tried it already.

MasterSeal NP 1
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Old 07-15-2015, 08:52 PM   #137
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Truckasurus, I used a high performance polyurethane sealant by BASF called Sonolastic NP1 around my wheel wells three years ago. So far it seems as durable as the original factory Vulkem/Sikaflex.
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Old 07-15-2015, 08:54 PM   #138
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Cool. That's the same stuff (just rebranded I believe). Nice to find something local to me at last.
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Old 10-07-2015, 05:13 PM   #139
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What is the proper cleaner before applying sikaflex? I KNOW it's not alcohol!
Thanks!


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Old 10-07-2015, 05:25 PM   #140
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More research says acitone?


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