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Old 04-14-2015, 06:07 PM   #101
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Most professional caulking companies I have dealt with use kerosene to cut/trowel poly-based sealants while wet. I use alcohol to cut/trowel silicone sealants while wet. Most of these sealants are solvent-immune once cured.
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Old 04-14-2015, 06:10 PM   #102
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Most professional caulking companies I have dealt with use kerosene to cut/trowel poly-based sealants while wet. I use alcohol to cut/trowel silicone sealants while wet. Most of these sealants are solvent-immune once cured.
Just a quick note......NEVER use alcohol as a cleaning/prep agent if you are intending to use SikaFlex polyurethane, as it inhibits it's adhesive properties (per Sika Corp.)
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Old 04-14-2015, 06:19 PM   #103
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Just a quick note......NEVER use alcohol as a cleaning/prep agent if you are intending to use SikaFlex polyurethane, as it inhibits it's adhesive properties (per Sika Corp.)
Only alcohol w/ silicone...kerosene w/ poly. Not as prep agents but to trowel/cut (i.e. clean up beads). Silicone has limited uses on AS trailers to begin with. I would only use silicone for glass (windows) and a few interior applications.
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Old 04-15-2015, 06:41 AM   #104
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I just use a rubber-gloved finger for smoothing. No solvents ever.


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Old 04-15-2015, 11:25 PM   #105
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I love Sikaflex
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Old 04-16-2015, 07:53 AM   #106
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I'm curious. Why would using alcohol to clean the seam before caulking be bad? Seems it would evaporate completely and not affect the later application of the caulk.
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Old 04-16-2015, 10:38 AM   #107
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Alcohol must have some residual that remains on the substrate which then interferes with the bonding process of the polyurethane.

If the tech department of the manufacturer of SikaFlex says not to use it.........I DON'T!!

I use cases of the stuff and have never had issues while following the company's application guidelines.

If you are still unsatisfied with this answer, I would suggest a call to the chemists at Sika Corp. for their reasoning.


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Old 04-16-2015, 10:57 AM   #108
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I used Alcohol in a bunch of places before I saw the warning hear, as I might of stated earlier in this thread. For the most part, all my Silkaflex is still solid. And had no issues to my knowledge bonding. We'll see how it holds up, as only time will tell.
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Old 04-16-2015, 11:07 AM   #109
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It's possible that someone used rubbing alcohol instead of straight isopropyl alcohol. Rubbing alcohol has some oil in it and will leave residue for sure.

Best to not use alcohol at all to avoid any chance of an issue. I likely to assume Sikaflex manufacturer knows what they are talking about, and I DO know Lew does...


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Old 04-16-2015, 06:36 PM   #110
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I could see the issue with rubbing/isopropyl... what about methanol?
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Old 04-16-2015, 07:54 PM   #111
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Listen............

Some of you can of course, do as you like with your trailers. I use Sika products by the case in professional applications on a daily basis and NOT as a hobbyist or occasional user, so when the manufacturer says NO ALCOHOL...........I assume they have done the research to arrive at their conclusions and they mean NO ALCOHOL......... whether methanol, isopropyl or rubbing. There are no exceptions listed!!!!! Is this concept that difficult to grasp and understand?????????

If your application of said product fails.....it's what you did and you take the time to rectify your error. If mine fails on YOUR trailer.........it not only reflects on me, but also costs me to remove and replace the product.

I DON'T SECOND GUESS THE PRODUCT DIRECTIVES

And BTW, I'm done with my contributions to this thread!
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Old 04-17-2015, 06:10 AM   #112
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lewster thank you for your post. I am new to airstream and read these posts to learn more about maintaining my 2015 Sport. I for one would not disagree having your credentials you should know. When I see your post I always read it carefully. Thank you for contributing.


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Old 04-17-2015, 07:15 AM   #113
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I just wish I had seen the warnings before I went about cleaning a bunch of areas on the back pano's with it. I have now switched though since I started caulking the roof and did my solar. I just hope the pano windows stay fine. I'm starting to be a fan of the Silkaflex.
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Old 04-18-2015, 08:50 AM   #114
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My belly pan is held together with Sikaflex. I love that stuff. It's not coming off. Ever
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Old 04-18-2015, 11:54 AM   #115
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I like the SikaFlex, and have also used "Quikrete® Polyurethane Non-Sag Sealant". I sent them an email asking about compatibility with aluminum and their response was, "Quikrete® Polyurethane Non-Sag Sealant is compatible with aluminum."

Makes sense.... it's also used to seal around aluminum-framed windows and building materials.

It worked well between the frame and body panels on our Avion. The non-sag properties are very handy.


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Old 04-18-2015, 02:20 PM   #116
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Tin Tin: On your most recent list, you have multiple options per section.

Are they all comparable/interchangeable?
Sorry BLTF, only now noticed your post. Regarding interchangeability, my opinion would be that they are. Of course it's good practice to remove as much of the old caulk as possible before adding new.

Regarding compatibility, they are largely polyurethane caulks, so in general they should be compatible. Can't vouch for that though. I have a few favourites that I have been able to source locally or online, and tend to stick with them. I use Parbond a LOT, like the way it goes on and the small bead.
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Old 04-18-2015, 03:37 PM   #117
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Airstream Store Sealant Kit

I noticed the the Airstream Store the sealant kit was on sale so figured it would be a good start to my sealant collection.

28430W – 16 oz can of Acryl-R Seam Sealer and Applicator Head. Use to seal all metal to metal seams, including but not limited to, segment seams, sides and bottom of riveted frame windows, compartment door frames, marker lights, and tail lights; any where a fine bead of gray sealant is required.

365330-01 – 10 oz tube of AdSeal Premium Quality Sealant Adhesive – White. Use to seal all exterior roof components (on travel trailers with white roof sheets)

365330-03 – 10 oz tube of AdSeal Premium Quality Sealant Adhesive – Gray. Use to seal eyebrows of riveted frame windows and main door; any where a thicker bead of gray sealant is required.

360180-04 – 10 oz tube of Sikaflex 221 Multi-Purpose Polyurethane Sealant – Black. Use to seal below the rubrail on trailers 1984-present with pewter gray underbelly, also on Safari black trailer windows.

When using the Acryl-R applicator how do you clean the applicator after use?

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Old 04-19-2015, 06:49 AM   #118
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When using the Acryl-R applicator how do you clean the applicator after use?

Kelvin
Kelvin,

I have had a can that I have been using for at least four years. All I ever have done when finished using it is to clean off any external product and then stick a piece of wire in the end of the nozzle. It has always worked immediately next time I used it.

If I remember, the gun originally came with a short wire, maybe an inch long, with a loop on the end. That got lost somewhere along the line and I now have a piece os stainless wire several inches long that I use.

I don't think you will have any problem.

Brian.
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Old 04-19-2015, 07:10 AM   #119
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I just use a rubber-gloved finger for smoothing. No solvents ever.


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Ditto....after taping off. With Parbond you have to smooth just a couple feet at a time....quickly...it skins over rapidly. Remove tape quickly as well.
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Old 04-20-2015, 01:24 AM   #120
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I used Citrastrip to take off all the black glue and then used Trempro 635 to
"paint" all the seams I could reach.
I am at this point after removing interior skins on a 1958 Airstream. This seams haha seems like an extreme to remove the black spray on goo. While I understand starting with a clean surface is for better adhesion, can the Trempro 635 be applied over the top?

While I don't want to cut corners, this is a lot of work! Is there a seam sealer that can be applied over the black stuff? Is removal (Citrastrip) a method that most here use for seam sealing, and over the backside of buck or olympic rivets?
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