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Old 02-12-2013, 05:09 PM   #1
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sealant types

I am re sealing the interior of my AS, the panels are off and I am checking for leaks before re-insulating. Just wondering which is the best product to use, non-silicone based is what I think is best. Opinions please...
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:27 PM   #2
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Some sort of polyurethane based sealant seems to be the consensuses around here but you will find differences in the brand people like. I like Trempro-635 for making fillets. I use Parbond for around windows and areas where the gap is small.

How are you cleaning the white gunk off the interior surfaces? You can't get to all the leak spots from the inside but areas where you have been getting leaks should be sealed if possible. Leaks are evident by black streaks where the water has caused mildew growth. I would seal outside in these same areas as well.

Rivets for awning brackets leak. Look for leaks to the right of the door where the Z-stringer is. I have had leaks in loose rivets there. Tail lights can leak.

Perry
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:37 PM   #3
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Sealing the inside couldn't hurt but the majority of the sealing needs to be on the exterior of the seams. Once the water penetrates the seam or rubber seals it is really too late to stop it. Spend the time to clean and reseal everything that could leak now while it is accessible and you will be well repaid later.
tim
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:51 PM   #4
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I cant find tempro products in Canada unfortunately, so I am looking at Proflex RV right now. I would like to brush over the former sealants and just emailed proflex for an answer. Do I have to remove all the previous stuff first? It looks good, only a few leaks. proflex contains petroleum distilates, thermoplastic rubber, and hydrocarbon resins, hoping all that bonds to both aluminum and the old sealant. Will seal from the outside when the time comes. Thanks for the input all!
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:35 AM   #5
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You don't have to buy the stuff from Canada. The best advantage to having the inner skins off is being able to see leaks and then go fix them from the outside. Silaflex makes a urathane sealant similar to the Trempro products. Go out to the trailer in a rain storm and look for leaks. I had several leaks that the only way I could find them was to pull the skins and the insulation and look for the leaks.

Perry
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:55 PM   #6
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While it's a major hassle to dig out old caulk, if it has started to leak, weep, or anything, better to do it now, because you will surely be doing it later. I learned this with a boat, and the same dictum applies to an A/S.
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:09 PM   #7
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For a 75, I think I'm lucky

only a few points of water entry in the old girl!

spots to watch for...

awning rails and anchor points, especially if not original, mine are and when you get at the same spot inside the trailer, there are just screws sticking through.

front rock guard, another add on, rivets inside are not caulked and water has gathered on the top gutter of the front window and made it down the ext thermo plastic sleeve/tube

those darn vista views, since thay are not vertical they collect water, they are under the awning rail trouble spots too, ouch, and the interior seals have shrunk, biggest problem so far!

the bathroom has its own dilemnas, but we won't go there now

thanks for the feedback
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Old 06-11-2013, 03:49 PM   #8
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Tremco in Canada

I am at a similar stage with my 31' 1979 Sovereign. After reading +++ about the problems with various sealants I have done a bit of searching and found a Canadian distributor of the Tremco sealants. "Fastenal", go to their site Canada | Fastenal.
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
You don't have to buy the stuff from Canada. The best advantage to having the inner skins off is being able to see leaks and then go fix them from the outside. Silaflex makes a urathane sealant similar to the Trempro products. Go out to the trailer in a rain storm and look for leaks. I had several leaks that the only way I could find them was to pull the skins and the insulation and look for the leaks.

Perry
BTW, thats SIKAFLEX
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pablito View Post
I cant find tempro products in Canada
FASTENAL has it available from all of their several hundred stores in Canada. They rarely stock it, but will get it in within a few days, at a reasonable price.

Case lot is way more than most people need, but they will get you any quantity, right from 1 and up.

ps: it's TREMPRO, by the way. TremPro 635 is the one to get for your AS exterior. It used to be called Vulkem.
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:43 PM   #11
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I am not trying to be argumentative, but Trempro 635 did not used to Vulkem. Trempro 626 is the same as the original product called Vulkem. Vulkem was texturized as Trempro 626 is today. Trempro 635 is a non texturized version of 626. It is similar, but not the same. The 626 also dries much slower and remains supple for decades. I pull panels apart all the time to have the center of the bead stick to my finger. It is specifically made to lap seal aluminum panels in aircraft and trailer construction.
Fastenal is the place to obtain it and the next product I am going to tout...
I have lately become a huge believer in this product for sealing interior seams...
Flex Seal - New Commercial - YouTube
Yes, as seen in a TV infomercial. This product works phenomenally in my opinion. I am totally sold on it and buy the Rustolium version by the case now. My current project has had ever single seam, joint, and rivet tail sprayed from the interior. I even fixed a VERY EXPENSIVE, brand new, 1964- 69, so called, replacement black tank that came to me leaking from the valve mounting plate.
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:28 AM   #12
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Frank,

Thanks for that info. I have used both, and IIRC, 626 is even more difficult to work with in terms of keeping it off my fingers, but I do see the advantage of using a product that stays "wet" longer, given the shaking an AS takes when we travel.

Tell me, what does "texturize" mean in this context?

Luckily, it wasn't too late to have my guy at Fastenal change my order to 626 from 635.
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Old 06-12-2013, 04:30 PM   #13
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the texturized is thicker. It stands up longer when making a bead. I will slump very little when put into place. The 635 tends to flow out ever so slightly.
I have a joke in my shop... I hold the tube up and say, "you saw the tube, now it all over you!" I have it all over me right now.
What ever formula you use, WD40 is a miracle remover. On a clean rag, it takes it right off while still wet. Wet with the 626 is up to 24 hours, though in our heat it skins over in about 6. I use a folded rag. It gets a wipe, and then folded over to fresh spot. Makes it clean clean clean...
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:00 PM   #14
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Thanks. And a great tip on using WD40 to clean up!
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