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Old 09-18-2002, 09:20 AM   #1
Cindy
 
1959 18' "Footer"
Powell River , British Columbia
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Question seal the bottom edge trim pieces?

I've polished my Traveler and now I'm putting parts back on it. Do I use anything to seal the bottom wrapping trim edges when I re-install them?
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Old 09-18-2002, 10:44 AM   #2
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1964 19' Globetrotter
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Did it look like there was caulking when you took it off? I'd seal with vulkem just to be safe.
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Old 09-18-2002, 06:37 PM   #3
Cindy
 
1959 18' "Footer"
Powell River , British Columbia
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Seal the bottom edge piece? 64 CT

NO, there's no caulking, but I understand from other input that it's not sealed-it needs to breathe...
Cindy
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Old 10-05-2002, 09:39 PM   #4
Rob
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Cindy,
I am currently doing some repairs to the floor and belly of my 25' Tradewind. There is an area where I can see the belly pan and side skin. It is under the side molding.
I would suggest sealing at least the top edge of he molding because for some reason A/S overlapped the belly over the side skin which would allow water to run directly into the belly of the coach.
I think when they attached the side molding they used some sort of sealant then riveted the molding over the seam.
Rob
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Old 10-22-2002, 08:43 AM   #5
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I know that when I pulled the belly pan off my Argosy I found a spongy mess of insulation, rusted spars and wet plywood that I attributed to water intrusion. I am almost a 100% sure it came through the seam where the belly pan sides and corner caps lap over the bottom of the side walls. It looked like from the factory it had some double edge tape in the joint that probably kept the water out for a few months after it rolled off the line in 78. I put it back together wth butyl tape between the sheets and shot a bead of vulkem on top for good measure prior to putting the trim back on.
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Old 10-23-2002, 09:08 AM   #6
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Bump...

just trying to keep this alive....maybe Andy will answer this one. Seal the seam between the belly-pan and the upper shell, or not? or both that seam, and the trim?

I'm thinking this is my problem..or at least one of them. I didn't get to do any caulking over the weekend, but I did notice gaps in the trim that are in very close proximity to damp spots on the floor.
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Old 10-23-2002, 09:38 AM   #7
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It's not necessary to seal the rub rail molding. However if someone insists, then seal it with Par Bond, never Vulkem. Vulkem does not flow well enough to apply a small bead, but the Par Bond does.
Different years have had different metal attachments at the rub rail. Sometimes the underbelly wrap is under the side sheet and sometimes it's on top of the side sheet. If it leaks water, it will run out at the bottom of the underbelly. Not to worry!!!
But, do not seal the underbelly, as it "MUST" breathe.
It is common knowledge that if wood is sealed on one side only, it will warp. That seal could be paint, epoxy, vinyl floor coverings or the like.


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Old 10-23-2002, 10:15 AM   #8
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So, are you saying that the damp spots on my floor are not likely from a leak in the belly pan joint? just a coincidence that there is a slight gap in the trim right where these spots are?

I've never seen this joint, and how that whole area fits together, so I'm having a hard time visualizing. I suppose if the joint is below the level of the plywood foor, then there's no way water coming in there could appear on the top of the plywood, and the water is flowing down on the inside skin from a leak somewhere "above".
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Old 10-23-2002, 10:18 AM   #9
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Chuck. Correct. If you have a water leak that seems to be a mystery, check the "vent pipe cover gaskets." Those are often overlooked.

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