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Old 12-09-2004, 01:28 PM   #1
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Seal Tech for finding water leaks?

Has anyone had any experience with the Seal Tech to find water leaks? I have had on going water leak problems for 2 years now. Local dealer has tried recalking, etc and even replacing the rear cap rivets. Leaks worse now than before they started. I called the A/S factory yesterday about taking it to them and they indicated that using the machine would be their first step. They suggested I try to find someone locally that has the Seal Tech machine and give it a try. I have located 2 dealers within 100 miles that has one. The prices seem to start at $100 for set up and then per hour. And that does not include the repair work. I am at the point that I need to try something. My wife is at the point where she is going to make me trade beds with her. It leaks on her side. Some women just have no sense of adventure.....
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Old 01-17-2005, 09:04 PM   #2
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Unhappy Still Leaking

Ok. Found a local shop that had a Seal Tech machine. $400 and two sessions with the machine later, I still have the same water leak. The leaks they found with the machine were mainly around the window seals at a lower level that the water leak. As mentioned in my post above, there is not much that has not been attempted by the local Airstream dealer. He has basically given up on finding the leak. I am about at that point myself. I can cover the back half with a tarp and lower the front end enought to keep the water from running back under it and it won't leak a drop. Everything has been recalked from the A/C back and new rivets installed all across the back cap, etc. Awning rails on both side have been recalked also. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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Old 01-18-2005, 03:56 AM   #3
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Question taken from a Vintage point of view

Did it leak when you first got it? Have the plumbing vents been dissasembled, cleaned and properly resealed, what about TV antennas, cable entry points, frigde/stove vents, roof vents etc. Has anything been added to the unit since you purchased it? Remember there is are stringers that run along the length of the trailer that will allow water to travel quite a distance before dripping on your head.

I am not saying you dealer is a bad one, but are the actually removing the old caulk and resealing things or are they just glopping caulking on top of what is already there. That is a favorite trick of peole in any repair business If a leak started due to mis applied or under applied caulking just sticking some more on top, may stop the leak short term but it WILL start up again shortly, because the joint has been contaminated and is compromised. The only way to assure a good seal is to throughly clean the joint before resealing.

Just a few thoughts and ideas

Aaron
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Old 01-18-2005, 05:43 AM   #4
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Your No 1 suspect should be the plumbing vents. Take them apart and redo them with new gaskets. I had the same problem until I found these babies to be really bad. Water would leak in the front or back depending on how it was leveled. My dealer could not find the leak either.

Leaks can be a real bummer!!! Good luck,

Jim
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Old 01-18-2005, 11:34 AM   #5
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Don't know the configuration of your trailer, but it sure seems like the rear roof area is suspect. Get a bucket or a hose up there and pour a slow stream of water on each possible seal starting with the lowest one first (while your wet partner holds a cup under the drip area). Pour enough water to satisfy the two you that the spot being tested would've leaked by now, then move to another. It'll take awhile (but it already has, yes?). I bet you'll find it. Another way (more invasive) is to start on top and remove rivets every foot dipping a bare Qtip in the hole (or a moisture probe if you're high tech) before drilling out the next rivet. The first one thats wet will tell you how high to look for leaks. Leaks can originate a long ways from where they announce themselves (its mostly an airstream thing). It's no fun but you can do it. Good luck
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Old 01-18-2005, 03:50 PM   #6
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Thanks for the additional ideas. Some have already been tried. I think I will try replacing the gaskets around the plumbing, etc. next. Aggrevating!
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'01 Yamaha Raptor ATV
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Old 01-18-2005, 07:05 PM   #7
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Re:Plumbing vents

Rapptorider,
That was one of my major leaks, and it was caused by the fact that somebody at the factory in 1975 hit a rib putting one of the plumbing vent cover screws in. Instead of backing the screw out and drilling a pilot hole in the rib, they just added some more caulk, then some else added some more, and then some else added some silicone, and it was still leaking when I bought the unit in 2003. It now has been removed, properly cleaned, new screening and gasket installed and the pilot hole drilled so the screw sits where it is supposed to, and no leak! But now I get to replace some wood flooring, insulation and scrub some mold off the wall.... I still have quite a bit more caulking to go, but it eventually will all get done. Best I can figure is that at a minimum you should plan on cleaning out old caulk and resealing about every 10-12 years, sooner if the unit is outside in the weather(especially sun) or 12-15 years if the unit is stored under cover for a large part of its life.

Aaron
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