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Old 11-16-2014, 06:22 PM   #1
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Question Right sealants on the right sections

Thanks to TinTin and his Sealants Summary thread, I think I have a good idea of which sealants to use where, but I'm still confused on a few of these, and wanted to post a visual reference Q&A for anyone who can offer feedback.

According to the thread


For wheel wells/underbody:

Vulkem 116
Trempro 635
Adseal Premium Quality Sealant Gray

Roof

Silkaflex 721 White
Adseal Premium Quality Sealant White
Dicor self-levelling sealant
Loctite® PL® S30 Polyurethane Roof and Flashing Sealant

Windows/Trim/Rubrail

Silkaflex 221 Gray
Parbond Gray or Clear (small hand tubes)
Loctite® PL® S40 Polyurethane Window Door and Siding Sealant

Small seams (between aluminum panels)/Exterior Lights

Acryl-R (small cans)

Rivet sealer

Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure

-------

Based on the above, and from my start on removing the old caulk, I'm going to use Silkaflex 221 Gray on the above my rear and front pano windows.



Should I also use it down the middles as well?



I'm going to also assume that #1 should also be Silkaflex 221 Gray.

Where I'm confused is if #2 is suppose to be Acryl-R or the Clear coat pen folks talk about.

Basically I've been wondering if these are suppose to be caulked or clear coat pen'd (I made up that term.)
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:36 PM   #2
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I really like the aluminum coloured Parbond, and have used it on the rubrails, around door and windows (your #1), on taillights and marker lights, and on the awning supports. It's a little easier to apply than the large tube caulks like Silkaflex. They can get messy and frustrating if you're not careful.

Aryl-R is pretty commonly used on the seams between sheets, and Captain Tolley on suspect rivets.

Aryl-R has been used for years by Airstream, using the generic applicator or plastic syringes you can put on very narrow bead, which is what you need for between the sheets. Unfortunately not available widely, AS store sells it.

The clear coat is sometimes applied where old clear coat had to be scraped off to allow Corrosion-X to get to filiform affected areas. So not really a caulk or 'sealant' per se.
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:43 PM   #3
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I might try the Parbond in the future. At the moment, we are resealing everything for a trip this Thanksgiving. And I purchased the kit from Airstream.com - so I've got two tubes of Adseal, Silkaflex and Aryl-R.

Saddly, I discovered the Sealant thread, after I made my purchase.
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:58 PM   #4
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You're set with what you have! Happy caulking!
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Old 11-22-2014, 11:24 AM   #5
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HOLY #$%$ Silkaflex is the most difficult caulk I have ever ever ever ever worked with. And I've been on/off in the family construction business for over two decades and probably caulked miles and miles. Two feet and it's the most frustratingly horrible caulk ever. Flows terribly and if you try to spread it with the finger you just end up with the stuff everywhere making a mess. URGH.
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Old 11-22-2014, 12:09 PM   #6
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Alright, here is a tip for anyone else.

While working with this crap, I kept saying to myself, this feels like working with Oil pant. Especially every time I used my wet finger and rag to wipe. Just made things worse. It was also not wiping off my hands. So I got out the mineral spirits and sure enough.

So I'll be using a rag soaked in Mineral spirits and my finger and now things are going way better.
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