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Old 05-10-2014, 02:57 PM   #1
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Replacing windows seals

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ID:	211606 please tell me there is a better/ neater way to do these inside corner turns. I'm just holding it in place for the photo and haven't attached them yet.... It looks bulky and terrible. I'm going to do all of my windows today if possible. Also, I read somewhere that in addition to the sticky tape... I should use some kind of additional adhesive, is this true? If so, what do I need to get? And is it something that I can buy locally ? Thank you!
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Old 05-10-2014, 05:10 PM   #2
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Use this. No substitutes, please. Clean the surface, peel the backing off the weatherstrip...OK to use this adhesive with your sticky back seal....
It is messy. Clean excess off right away. Use small clamps to hold the seal in place while it sets up. You really can't do all the windows at one time because of this set up requirement. Go slow and you won't be sorry. I use cloths pins to hold it in place. I also carefully use 45 degree corner cuts and use the adhesive to fill the small gaps.
3M/Black super weatherstrip and gasket adhesive (8008) | Weatherstrip | AutoZone.com
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Old 05-10-2014, 05:25 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Shawnna View Post
Attachment 211606 please tell me there is a better/ neater way to do these inside corner turns. I'm just holding it in place for the photo and haven't attached them yet.... It looks bulky and terrible. I'm going to do all of my windows today if possible. Also, I read somewhere that in addition to the sticky tape... I should use some kind of additional adhesive, is this true? If so, what do I need to get? And is it something that I can buy locally ? Thank you!
Your photo shows that your installing the double flared gasket "backwards".

The flares face the outside, NOT the inside.

Also the better replacement is the "D" shaped hollow gasket.

Andy
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:00 PM   #4
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Hey, relax... Deep Breaths...
None of this is going to happen as fast as you like. One of the lessons you'll learn from this restoration is to enjoy the Process. It's hard for a Product oriented person to endure this arduous journey. I often find myself quoting Rocky the Squirrel. Bullwinkle is in total disarray from some mishap, and Rocky turns to him and always says “You knew the job was dangerous when you took it.”


What you have is a foam-ish seal that will work. Perhaps not as resilient as the D seal, but it'll work well enough. To turn the corner neatly, as Mr Melody advised, cut a notch into the seal. Diagonal side cutters work well for this. I didn't use additional sealant, as I'm guessing that that is needed for the OEM “Feather” type seal, but I don't know. These other guys have a broader AS experience than I.


I think what contributes to the failure of the self adhesive foam seal is that folks have a tendency to stretch it during installation. Try to keep the seal in a little compression over its length as you put it in place. When you get to the corner, snip the notch in the seal, turn the corner keeping the seal in a little compression (sorta pushed into the corner). In the years to come it'll tend to shrink. The little outside radius is unavoidable unless you completely sever the seal and miter join it. Wipe a mist of black silicone in the notch for added adhesion. Over time the pressure of the closed window will compress the foam and spread it into the corner a bit more, but it hardly matters.


As previously advised, Hugely important to have a clean surface with no residual cleaners or solvents. For me, after it looked clean enough, I cleaned it with alcohol and a scotch-brite, then, cleaned it with 220 wet sandpaper with a little detergent that they use on oil-slicked birds. Then rinsed clear water quite a few times and dried really well. When you're finished, apply aerospace 303 to the window side of the seal according to directions.
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:10 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Your photo shows that your installing the double flared gasket "backwards".



The flares face the outside, NOT the inside.



Also the better replacement is the "D" shaped hollow gasket.



Andy

Thank you Andy!!!! Lol, I'm starting feel like a broken record, I have said that to you before on other post : )
In my photo, I do have the flares face out. I took my photo from the outside looking into trailer.
When you say the "D shape" are you referring to the larger or smaller size for my 1967 Overlander windows?
Whew, I did read up on this and thought that I ordered the right items, but apparently, I should call in my orders from here on out to insure that I get help, instead of doing it on line. Newbie mistake!
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:49 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Your photo shows that your installing the double flared gasket "backwards".
The flares face the outside, NOT the inside.

Now I'm confused. I thought that there were three different window gasket styles. OEM feathered flair, foam, D.

I used VTS foam on window, big D for entry door seal , Small D for screen door seal.
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:53 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by ALUMINUMINUM View Post
Hey, relax... Deep Breaths...
None of this is going to happen as fast as you like. One of the lessons you'll learn from this restoration is to enjoy the Process. It's hard for a Product oriented person to endure this arduous journey. I often find myself quoting Rocky the Squirrel. Bullwinkle is in total disarray from some mishap, and Rocky turns to him and always says “You knew the job was dangerous when you took it.”


What you have is a foam-ish seal that will work. Perhaps not as resilient as the D seal, but it'll work well enough. To turn the corner neatly, as Mr Melody advised, cut a notch into the seal. Diagonal side cutters work well for this. I didn't use additional sealant, as I'm guessing that that is needed for the OEM “Feather” type seal, but I don't know. These other guys have a broader AS experience than I.


I think what contributes to the failure of the self adhesive foam seal is that folks have a tendency to stretch it during installation. Try to keep the seal in a little compression over its length as you put it in place. When you get to the corner, snip the notch in the seal, turn the corner keeping the seal in a little compression (sorta pushed into the corner). In the years to come it'll tend to shrink. The little outside radius is unavoidable unless you completely sever the seal and miter join it. Wipe a mist of black silicone in the notch for added adhesion. Over time the pressure of the closed window will compress the foam and spread it into the corner a bit more, but it hardly matters.


As previously advised, Hugely important to have a clean surface with no residual cleaners or solvents. For me, after it looked clean enough, I cleaned it with alcohol and a scotch-brite, then, cleaned it with 220 wet sandpaper with a little detergent that they use on oil-slicked birds. Then rinsed clear water quite a few times and dried really well. When you're finished, apply aerospace 303 to the window side of the seal according to directions.

Thank you ALUMINUMINUM!!!! Ok, breathing session is over. I feel better! Much better. I'm definitely Bullwinkle! I was in much disarray. My thinking process was that I'm not doing a tearout/ tear down so this is going to be a breeze with a few bumps in the road but surely not anything I couldn't handle myself and "Rocky" aka my husband..... Said you knew it was going to take you a while to get there....umm, No Rocky, I thought I'd have her done by now.

Pulled the tarp off of her to get the job done and quickly discovered that I was not going to get any of it done before the rain returned this afternoon. So she got a few hours of fresh air and I worked on her window clips while feeling defeated. Once again she is covered with tarp for the majority of the week....much more rain in the forecast. LOL, I'm starting to think that I should now spend my time building her a new garage at the rate I'm going. I have learned that as I'm working on her That I think " well, while I'm here working on this, I should do that also.... And so now I know that my time frame needs to be a bit more realistic. Just get er done isn't going to happen. I'm obsessed with an Airstream....there, I said it!

Back to the foam seal.....I had thought about cutting a notch in it to make it work. Thank you for the photos.... Pictures always help!
does one buy aerospace 303 online?

Thank you again ALUMINUMINUM
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Old 07-21-2014, 11:54 AM   #8
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I bought the recommended "D" seal to replace the feather seals on my '71 Overlander. It seems to be a quality product, and sticks well to clean surfaces without additional glue. But it's much thicker than the feather seal. I've only put it on the front door so far, and now I have to slam the door violently to get it to latch. It's been on for a couple of months, and hasn't gotten any better. I'll have to either remove it or make a new striker plate. I won't be putting the rest of the 100' that bought on the windows, because that would undoubtedly make closing them a two person job.
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Old 07-21-2014, 12:05 PM   #9
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I bought the recommended "D" seal to replace the feather seals on my '71 Overlander. It seems to be a quality product, and sticks well to clean surfaces without additional glue. But it's much thicker than the feather seal. I've only put it on the front door so far, and now I have to slam the door violently to get it to latch. It's been on for a couple of months, and hasn't gotten any better. I'll have to either remove it or make a new striker plate. I won't be putting the rest of the 100' that bought on the windows, because that would undoubtedly make closing them a two person job.
That "D" gasket WILL NOT stay in place unless you use the super weatherstrip black adhesive, guaranteed.

After that gasket is properly installed, after a couple of days, lube it very well with silicone spray.

You door not closing properly most likely is because of the striker pocket not being in the correct location, instead of the gasket causing that issue.

When thousands of owners have successfully installed the "D" gasket, without any issues, I would make sure that your doing it correctly.

Andy
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Old 07-21-2014, 12:16 PM   #10
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The "D" seal that you use on the door is not the same size "D" seal that you use on the windows. The window seal is about half the size of the door seal. I used them on my '72 Trade Wind. The windows seal up just fine. Yes, the door is a little more difficult to close. I NEVER slam my door, under any circumstances. That could easily turn into a very expensive repair when either the hinge or the lock mechanism falls apart. Instead, I take the time to gently close the door...and then give it another gentle push to engage the lock (be kind to your AS) . I would much rather be gentle with it and a void a thousand dollar repair. And I've been known to hang a sign on my door "You Slam It, You Bought It"! Just saying....

You will also find that the new window seals will tend to be sticky...making it difficult to open the windows. You can wipe the seals down with a little silicone. Or there is a push pin actuator that you can build by drilling a hole through the window frame at the bottom and installing a spring loaded 'pusher'. There's a link to it somewhere here on the Forum. I intend to do that with mine, when the time comes.
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Old 07-21-2014, 12:20 PM   #11
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The "D" seal that you use on the door is not the same size "D" seal that you use on the windows. The window seal is about half the size of the door seal. I used them on my '72 Trade Wind. The windows seal up just fine. Yes, the door is a little more difficult to close. I NEVER slam my door, under any circumstances. That could easily turn into a very expensive repair when either the hinge or the lock mechanism falls apart. Instead, I take the time to gently close the door...and then give it another gentle push to engage the lock (be kind to your AS) . I would much rather be gentle with it and a void a thousand dollar repair. And I've been known to hang a sign on my door "You Slam It, You Bought It"! Just saying....

You will also find that the new window seals will tend to be sticky...making it difficult to open the windows. You can wipe the seals down with a little silicone. Or there is a push pin actuator that you can build by drilling a hole through the window frame at the bottom and installing a spring loaded 'pusher'. There's a link to it somewhere here on the Forum. I intend to do that with mine, when the time comes.
The small "D" gasket is used on all the Airstream windows, and the entrance doors up to an including the 1973 models. 1974 models use a triangular shaped entrance door gasket.

Andy
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Old 07-21-2014, 12:55 PM   #12
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Thanks ark':

The "feather" seals original (or so I assume) to my '71 were the same size on windows, door & hatches. Hey, I'm with you on not slamming the door -- I hate that! But with the "D" seal on, it's the only way to close it from the inside. I can put all of the force that my 175 lb. frame can muster into pulling, with no result. I have to very violently slam it to get it to latch, and it makes me cringe.

The only solution I have right now (other than a different striker plate) is to remove the "D" seal from the door and temporarily replace it with cheap foam stuff until I can afford to buy the proper feather seal. I wish that I'd only bought enough of the "D" to test in one spot, but I relied on advice here and from the seller.

To prevent the seals from sticking on the fixed side, I like to use 303 Protectant, but some of that tire shine stuff works in a pinch. Thanks for the tip on making a little interior plunger to pop recalcitrant windows free.
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