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Old 06-17-2010, 09:18 PM   #1
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2008 25' Safari SS SE
Georgetown , Texas
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Recommended External Seam Sealant

I am looking for advice as to the recommended seam sealant (gray or silver in color) that should be utilized to fix several pin holes in the existing seam seals. Our Airstream is a 2008 - 25' Safari that is stored under a covered site when not in use. I have noticed several water trail streaks after a rain from the window by the front door entry. If its not from the pin holes, its possible that its coming in around the awning attachment's just above the rounded window.

Thanks for any/all help.

Ron Schroer
Sun City, TX
612.565.4833
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Old 06-17-2010, 09:35 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Ron Schroer View Post
I am looking for advice as to the recommended seam sealant (gray or silver in color) that should be utilized to fix several pin holes in the existing seam seals. Our Airstream is a 2008 - 25' Safari that is stored under a covered site when not in use. I have noticed several water trail streaks after a rain from the window by the front door entry. If its not from the pin holes, its possible that its coming in around the awning attachment's just above the rounded window.

Thanks for any/all help.

Ron Schroer
Sun City, TX
612.565.4833

Vulkem for large seams and Parbond for small seams, are the usual favorites.

Andy
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Old 06-17-2010, 10:02 PM   #3
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Parbond and Alcoa gutter seal are the two most commonly used products for sealing small pinholes and slightly separated seams.
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Iíve used the Parbond and it seems to work well. Donít have any experience with the Gutter seal.
The stuff can be a bit messy. I try to insert the tip into the leak then work it in with a fingertip (use a latex glove). Let it set up and wipe down the excess with mineral spirits or xylol.

Good luck,
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Old 06-17-2010, 10:29 PM   #4
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ron...

on YOUR unit the external sealers are...

acryl-r
sikaflex 721

these both come in silver (721 also comes in black or white and is UV resistant)

parbond (by parrbond) can sub for the sikaflex in most locations.

and BOTH (all 3) are available from the a/s company store ONLINE.

you can CALL the parts/store and talk to the gal who runs the store, she will help u sort out WHICH PRODUCT for which need.

FILLING gaps/tiny cracks in existing sealant is often a crap shoot, since the real source of the leak may NOT be the obvious.

better to REMOVE the old sealant if it's cracked and CLEAN then reseal with FRESH GOOP.

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-04-2010, 04:47 PM   #5
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Cleaning the Joint

I like to mechanically remove all old sealant then scrub the joint with an appropriately sized brush (tooth brush for clearance lights) and isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol picks up any water and the brush gets into the joint. Then wipe with a clean rag and let it dry for 30 minutes. Then you can put on you new sealant. Sikaflex 221 is good stuff (white) and Acryl-r is too. I think the Acryl-r comes in aluminum color and clear.

Walmart has the 90% +/- isopropyl which I prefer over the 70% found most places.
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Old 11-04-2010, 04:55 PM   #6
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I am a big fan of Parbond. Works well on small repairs, but I have also used it on some big jobs with good success.

Steve.
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Old 11-04-2010, 05:11 PM   #7
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Small Seam Seal

I have had very good luck with Alcoa Gutter Seal. I have found the dispensing syringes available from West Marine work best. They have a long nozzle that can be trimmed for various bead sizes. If you really want to do a clean job experiment in some inconspicuous places or with a couple of pieces of sheet metal. I use acetone for clean up when using the Alcoa Gutter seal and you can also use the acetone to thin the Gutter seal a bit. Simply place some Gutter seal in the syringe with a little acetone, stir with a bamboo skewer, or something thin, then apply. The Gutter Seal will almost immediately form a membrane on the outside of the bead while the material underneath begins to fill the crack.
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:38 PM   #8
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I have had good luck wit Seamermate (aluminum in color)Self leveling polyurethane base.It has the same feel as Parbon.Talked with a member who had applied it 6 yrs. ago. with no problems before I tried it.
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:53 PM   #9
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There are lots of sealants that 'will work'. But on your 2008 Airstream, the factory assembled your unit using SikaFlex 221 on the large seams and sealing jobs and Acryl-R for the smaller seams that needed wicking capabilities to seal properly.

IIRC, both are available from the Airstream store on the company website. I use SikaFlex sealants almost exclusively, except when I have a very small sealing job on Airstreams, which is when the Acryl-R comes out. Both perform extremely well.

IIWY, I would use exactly what he factory uses...there must be a reason that they chose these products and there will be NO compatibility problems.
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:56 PM   #10
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There are lots of sealants that 'will work'. But on your 2008 Airstream, the factory assembled your unit using SikaFlex 221 on the large seams and sealing jobs and Acryl-R for the smaller seams that needed wicking capabilities to seal properly.

IIRC, both are available from the Airstream store on the company website. I use SikaFlex sealants almost exclusively, except when I have a very small sealing job on Airstreams, which is when the Acryl-R comes out. Both perform extremely well.

IIWY, I would use exactly what he factory uses...there must be a reason that they chose these products and there will be NO compatibility problems.
Same products I use on my 2005, that is what they recommended for my trailer at JC.

Gotta be careful with that Acryl-R or you can make a mess!

If I understand correctly, the Vulkem is the older equivalent to the Sikaflex and the
Parbond equates to the Acryl R in terms of application.





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Old 11-04-2010, 09:04 PM   #11
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repeating the info in post #4...

parr bond makes a variety of products...

the parbond we use is a jack of all trades,

and seals gaps on metal, glass, rubber/plastic or wood.

it can go ANYWHERE and is nice to carry for repairs while travel'n.

it is essentially a vulkem/tempro/sikaflex equivalent in SMALLER tubes.

it can be applied to tiny gaps IF the tip is cut with a tiny hole...

but it is no where NEAR as fluid thin as acryl-r.

and it does not 'self level' or wick into tiny spaces like acryl-r.
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while Sika' 221 is used by the case load on new streams...

it is primarily used during assembly on the shell INTERIOR.

Sika' 721 is use roof top EXTERNALLY because it is intended for UV exposure.

221 can be used externally and painted over,

but without protection breaks down sooner than 721 from ultraViolate exposure...

721 can be purchased in white, black and grAy, as i recall.

cheers
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Old 11-11-2010, 06:29 PM   #12
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I find the best way to dry the seam areas prior to applying the Vulkem sealant (or other if prefered) is to use a compressor's air nozzel to completely blow out all loose material and moisture. After this process you can visually see if there is anything remaining that needs to be removed and it will be as dry as can be.
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Old 11-11-2010, 06:34 PM   #13
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I have a 1989 25 foot Excello and am refitting the trailer. Leaks are numerous and generalaly aroung wndows. I am in the process of removing the previous sealant and replacing with Vulkem. I next have the stripping and polishing process ahead of me for the top sections of the trailer. I hope I have sequesced the seam reparirs properly prior to the stripping and polishing of the shell. Should I have sealed the seams after the stripping ans polishing? Too late anyway.
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Old 11-12-2010, 05:44 AM   #14
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Gutter seal from the local big box works for me.
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